Updated:How do I take a feed from the brake light switch

[Brockett]

I want to install a fuse board to supply power to such as:-
Sat Nav
Twin horns
Cigar lighter for phone charging
Heated grips

I have read here that relay switching feed should be taken from the brake light switch. Also read here that using "Scotch connectors" is not a good idea.

How do I tap into the brake light circuit?
Any tips on Types and suppliers for connectors, shrouding?
Soldered? crimped? or crimped and soldered?

Any pictures?

Also what is a reasonable load for a relay to supply and/or considering the list above should I use two relays?

[frez]

You can use or make something like this:

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Bike_ ... akeadaptor

A less robust but adequate solution would be to use a posi-tap.

The feed you take from the brake should be used to switch a relay and your gear should be connected to the switched side of the relay.

This does the whole thing:

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Bike_ ... m.html#pc8

[Brockett]

Thanks Frez.
( how the hell did I post this topic in this section - cos I didn't check first Doh!)

Quick edit I thought I had posted this in a different section

I have looked at Eastern Beaver products before but I am put off by not knowing the actual import duty so I can't work out the actual costs.

I have also read on this  forum something about EB's circuitry burn out problems. Not sure if that was product or customer originated.

I am not a great fan of PCBs carrying auto electrics . ( I like wires I can see and check for continuity)

I was trying to do something a little more DIY. Although if I can't post in the correct section what chance I will foul up the electrickery as well.

[frez]

I have used the EB products for light relays, they are fine, and I don't think I paid any duty. I did have a relay burn out but that was probably due to damage caused by my own poor routing.

I built my own version of the EB brake switch adapter by buying appropriate plugs/sockets. The hot wire then went to an auto relay I bought from Maplins. I used wagobox connectors and junction boxes to split out the connectors to different accessories.

So yes you can do it yourself if you are happy wiring things up.

[willbo]

I recently bought an eastern beaver relay kit and rear light connector and paid £15 import duty. Alot yes but the items are as always very well made.

true, if u had the tools and know how u csn make your own but I prefer hassle free and beaver all the way

[iansoady]

I usually fit a double bullet connector in line with the feed (provided it's only taking a light load eg a relay). This type of thing:





using single bullets in the original and new cables:



I solder although I know others swear by crimping.

[Jeff999]

Crimp, solder then heat shrink. Bomb proof.  

[Juvecu]

+1 to crimp, solder then heatshrink

[greywolf]

Crimp, solder then heat shrink. Bomb proof.  

The only exception would be in wiring that moves, as in handlebar wiring. Don't anchor a soldered connection and allow the wire at one end to move. The wire will break where the solder ends at the braid. Either make the connection where both sides are moveable and tie wrap both sides of the joint to adjacent wires or anchor both sides of the connection to the frame so motion does not reach the joint.

[Descolada]

I had to do something similar recently. I used Positap connectors for places where I had to intrude on existing wiring and then crimp and heat shrink for the rest. Where I was crimping onto new wire I tin'd the bare wire before inserting it into the connector, which I then crimped.

[Brockett]

Deep breath :- I have taken note of Willbo's comments and gone down the Eastern Beaver route.
I have ordered
1. the PC8 Fuse Panel with built in (on) brake light switching lead and
2. Dual  Headlight relays.
Cost so far : £127.00.

Rational:
I am a fiddler and something of a bodger, but I have a new bike so it's probably not the time for ham fisted over crimped, over soldered, crazy wiring that results in a 'smoulder'.
I take GW's advice on flexing soldered joints and Jeff999's crimp, solder, heat shrink.  Hmmm I wondered why previous soldered joints always seemed to be too fragile.

Thanks to all for your comments and advice.
 
I'll update this as things progress.
So far the list of accessories to be powered has modified to:
Sat Nav
Phone charging via cigar lighter
Dual Horns (switching relay)
PD Oiler
Optimate charger
May also run a 2nd Cigar lighter / Aux socket in the under the seat tray to charge Ipod / phone from an always on feed so I can leave it parked and charge what I need.
D

[frez]

You will want the optimate charger point always on, and there is an optimate extension lead that has a cigar socket on the end of it which will save you having to wire in a separate one.

[Juvecu]

Eastern Beaver stuff is well made, you'll consider it money well spent when it's all arrived and you've just done the easy installation bits

[Brockett]

Having been a little concerned at what charges to expect I can now reveal.

PC8 and Dual Headlight Relays
£127.66

Import VAT £20.08
Clearance fee  £13.50 ( Sniff sniff, smells like another tax to me)

Total =£161.24

[Brockett]

I am away from home at the moment so no photos.
I took the Eastern Beaver PC8 away with me and tried to fit it. The Glee underseat tray is a little different from the Wee's tray in that there is a raised portion about the size of a quarter of a chickens egg right where the PC8 should fit.
So it doesn't.  
I cannot see any reason for the molding and it can't be readily removed as it forms part of the rear mudguard and will leave a hole in it. I think the mudguard / under seat tool tray is thinner plastic than the Wee's.  Maybe the shape aids ridgidity?
I have connected all the wires and connected the TomTom Sat Nav to a switched fuse and also connected an Aux socket to and always on fuse so I can charge my phone whilst at rest. I have wrapped a piece of foam around the PC8 as a temporary measure.

So if I see any wee's this week end at fat rat's and ask to look under your seat you will know what I mean!!  

Oh! yes and talking of eggs I was mowing my brothers grassy lane with the grassbox off and the back wedged open and I ran over a stone which was fired back at a zillion miles and hour straight onto my shin and I have lump the size of an egg even after two hours of ice packs.
Not been my day has it. :limp:

[skinny5216]

I have the EB kit on my Glee, fitted it 12 months ago, fits nicely under the seat. Also have the headlight upgrade. Good bit of kit. I run heated grips, Sat Nav, 2 aux points, 2 heated vests, well worth the money and the added bonus of never cutting a wire   import duty and release fee was about £36  

Double sided sticky things fasten it down under the seat  

[greywolf]

Some people make a little platform to put a PC8 flat in the tray. The Wee has a little build up in the center too. I built a little platform to mount a Blue Seas fuse block on a Wee.


When I put a PC8 in the Wee, most of the electrical additions were in the fairing so I put it in front.


On the Glee, the Rostra electronic cruise control would only fit in the tail and I needed the tray for the air pump and other tools. That relegated the PC8 to the rear too with some heavier draw items in front like the Stebel horn running off bus bars on the top of the battery.

[Brockett]

Thanks for the pictures GW. Very nice packaging and wiring.
Did you fabricate the bus bars?
I did think about making a platform for the PC8 subject to being sufficient clearance for the seat base, but that will have to wait until I get home.

[greywolf]

My wiring never comes out as neatly as I want it. I get impatient. The bus bars are terminal strips from a local electronics supply shop. I made the plastic cover for the live bus.

[Phoenix]

The Eastern beaver kit is nice but wow that's a hefty price tag it comes with.

I just done mine I reckon it cost in total £15 for all the bits



If I could afford to spend that sort of money I guess it would look a little bit tidier but the savings can go elsewhere instead.