Author Topic: Juv's Strom "Restoration" (Read 97224 times)

iansoady · « **Reply #20 on:** July 09, 2013, 16:27:33 »

It does always cost more than you think.....

I have rarely got back what I've spent on bikes (a Velo Venom was an exception, but if I'd kept it another year or two....)

But for a bike like Juv's I think you're right that £500 or so should see most of it done. The temptation is always to go that bit further - every bit of new paint / chrome just shows up the bit next to it so you have to do that as well.

Juvecu · « **Reply #21 on:** July 09, 2013, 16:57:25 »

I'm a big fan of reading these types of bike rebuilding/restoration posts on forums. I originally thought £500, but as I know how these things go I figured I'd double the amount. I don't have kids or pets or anything else than myself and the good lady to spend extra cash on (I planned that one carefully

) so I don't mind it. I know I'm a bit ambitious as far as the time goes, but once I get going and keep going it will move along at the right pace. If it does end up being a case of only finishing things off next year then I'm going to be leaving things that are easy to get to like wheels, fork lowers, swingarm and panels for last. Along those lines I think the frame, subframe and headlight cowl frame are the first things which should get attention so that it's done and dusted. They are also the things that will be more "hidden" than the rest so if they aren't perfect because of the learning it won't be the end of the world (or rather relearning as I haven't done something like this for almost 15 years!)

There will be a lot of painting involved and I'm planning on doing everything with spray cans. I have a compressor, but it's a bit underpowered and I don't want to have problems. I've done a bit of paint research and I've decided that all the paint will be from the VHT range. They basically have everything and there is someone in the UK that supplies them for decent prices on eBay and they have the whole range. The only exception to this is my centre stand which I resprayed yesterday with some left over Hammerite Satin Black I had, but I might give it a couple of coats of the VHT epoxy black if it sticks out a lot.

Juvecu · « **Reply #22 on:** July 09, 2013, 17:13:51 »

So this all started on Sunday with a centre stand clean up. As mentioned this was done with some Hammerite Satin Black I had left from a previous job. The stand was taken off the bike, involved in a skirmish with a wire wheel and a power drill for about 45 minutes and then hard to reach places had some sand paper pulled over them. I washed it with ordinary washing up liquid and water and left it on the black bin to dry out in the sun. It was bone dry in about 10 minutes, the weather is lovely. I had bought some Kurust earlier the day and I set about painting it well. It's milky white stuff and it converts rust to a stable surface. I think it works by creating a different iron oxide that's black and has a smaller stable molecule (instead of red/brown rust which has a very large molecule.) It's good stuff and you can paint over it once it's dry. I left it overnight to dry.

On Monday I set up an area in the backyard in a wind quiet corner for spray painting small stuff. I just stapled some thick plastic to the wall and used a few sticks to keep it down. I applied lots of thin, quick coats and made sure to get it into every nook and cranny I could. In total I did about 7 or 8 coats and left if for 15 mins in between each to dry a bit, but not enough so that it wasn't tacky any more. After all the coats were on I left it in the sun to get some heat into it.

My makeshift "spray booth":

After a few coats of paint:

The end result:

Unfortunately I didn't take a 'before' picture, but I can assure you it was looking very sad. It's a bit too fancy looking now to put back on the bike because it's the only thing that's in good nick

Brockett · « **Reply #23 on:** July 09, 2013, 20:30:07 »

Well done Juv' for an interesting topic
IMHO your restoration project is worthwhile not in monetary terms but in the personal satisfaction that 'making a difference' can bring. Good luck and keep them updates coming.

Juvecu · « **Reply #24 on:** July 09, 2013, 23:40:47 »

A some "mandatory" research I decided I needed to test the VHT paint before committing to buy lots of it. The perfect little project was to spray my new case savers that I bought for the DR-Z (henceforth known as "the SM".) Gave the case savers 2 light coats with VHT Engine Enamel "Bright Red" code SP121 and then 3 medium coats after that. I left 10-15 mins drying time in between and sprayed directly onto bare aluminium. The result was very good and I'm satisfied with how it came out and that I've decided on the right paint for the Strom restoration. Just one image below to show the finish I get from the spray cans. If anyone is interested in seeing more, head over here to my thread on the DR-Z forums where I keep track of everything I do to the SM. There's a link to this in my signature too if anyone wants to keep track of the SM as it gets pimped.

Firestorm · « **Reply #25 on:** July 10, 2013, 09:30:13 »

Are you going to use the same paint for the tank and panels? If you are, try leaving the paint on your test pieces for a week or so and then gently flat back with some 1200 wet and dry and polish with some medium grade 3M cutting compound. I've not used this method on VHT but have had great success with aerosol paint and laquer.

Apologies if this is 'trying to teaching Gran to suck eggs'!!!

Juvecu · « **Reply #26 on:** July 10, 2013, 16:43:11 »

I don't understand exactly what you mean about the sanding and polishing. Are you meaning sanding before and polishing after or how?

The red is for some "subtle" red touches here and there on the SM. The next thing to get painted with the red will be the cam cover and then I might do some frame protector plates. Few other things like the front brake hose mount and the rear brake clevis and other small metal parts will also get some red. Don't want to go overboard, just want to have red sticking out here and there. The tank is going to be left yellow for now, the rest of the bike is yellow too, but want to change the tank and side panels to black and perhaps the headlight cowl and front fork protectors to black too. They are all plastics so not going to paint them, will just polish them up. Might do the radiator shrouds (plastic ones) with the red paint, but will wait and see. When it's all done and I'm happy it's going to stay that way then I'll get a nice uncluttered graphics set for it. Most of the work on the SM is quick and easy, but it will also have to wait until the Strom had some loving first. The SM needs to be my reliable commuter until the Strom is back in once piece. That might mean that I pitch up at the August bank holiday meet on a DR-Z instead of a V-Strom

(I'm sure I will dust you lot on any twisty road with it though and it's quicker off the line too!)

Mr Nick · « **Reply #27 on:** July 10, 2013, 18:10:50 »

Flatten/polish can give you a stunning finish if done right (and edges devoid of paint if not...) - it removes the orange peel effect and small surface imperfections.

Wet flatten the finished paint with 1200/1500 wet & dry - I find using a little soap with it improves it further.

Once it's all flattened back then attack it with the polish until all trace of the sanding is polished out.

p.s. bars are here: cheers mate.

Firestorm · « **Reply #28 on:** July 10, 2013, 18:34:29 »

What Mr Nick says and +1 for soap (or Fairy Liquid). Its done after your final topcoat of paint or laquer. First time takes a bit of courage to take 1500 wet and dry to your newly painted component! I wasn't suggesting it for small metal parts on the SM - I only suggested you have a practice with flatting back and polishing with cutting compound on something small that will be pennies to repaint if it goes wrong! I thought you were going to change the colour of the Wee - hence the reference to Plastics and tank and a few practices on small parts will pay dividends.

Juvecu · « **Reply #29 on:** July 10, 2013, 22:22:08 »

I see, I've never heard of doing it this way before. The question for me is whether I will then have to keep polishing things to keep it shiny or if the effect is permanent. I would guess permanent?

Firestorm · « **Reply #30 on:** July 10, 2013, 22:32:37 »

Its permanent. Its not 'polish' as such, cutting compound is more like Autosol for paint. Once the orange peel effect has been eliminated and you have a glossy 'factory' finish then protect it with wax polish or some such. Treat it as a normal paint finish - which is what it is, and polish it regularly or ignore as is your won't! As I said earlier, I've never done it with VHT but as long as the paint has gone hard then I can think of no reason why you won't be delighted with the finish you can achieve. Try on some small bits first though. Repeating myself now - I'll get me coat!!

Juvecu · « **Reply #31 on:** July 10, 2013, 23:10:35 »

I'm going to bake the case savers over the weekend and then I will experiment on them. I have some 1500 grit and a bottle of dish washing liquid in the garage

Making more work for myself here, but we'll just say it's all in the pursuit of knowledge and experience! A noble cause, surely?

Juvecu · « **Reply #32 on:** July 13, 2013, 16:35:25 »

Took a lot more pictures for "before" purposes today. Added them to the album, link in the OP

Jacko · « **Reply #33 on:** July 15, 2013, 13:37:28 »

T-cut will work as it's a cutting compound, right?

Firestorm · « **Reply #34 on:** July 15, 2013, 17:02:12 »

It will - but its a heck of a lot of effort for small reward. Best use proper cutting compound. I use G3 regular grade from an auto paint supplier and although I'm no expert I've had some good results.

Mr Nick · « **Reply #35 on:** July 15, 2013, 20:17:53 »

Get the right G3 though: the stuff Halfrauds sells isn't much better than t-cut and is aimed at the detailing crowd - why someone would want to spend days polishing their old Saxo is beyond me...

You need to go to a proper auto paint supply and get the yellow bottle G3: while you're there, get some of their other products as they're bloody good.

Firestorm · « **Reply #36 on:** July 15, 2013, 21:41:06 »

that's the stuff! Although, I use the paste in a tube. Brilliant stuff and worth the money

Juvecu · « **Reply #37 on:** July 15, 2013, 21:42:03 »

Mad Phil is lending me his sandblasting cubicle which will make things a helluva lot easier than using sandpaper and wire wheels on a drill. I'm also considering getting some of the bits sandblasted and powder coated now instead of spraying it myself. Will cost me more, but will likely come out better looking and last much longer. I'm still doing the engine and exhaust myself though. Perhaps I will just get the frame and wheels powder coated and do the rest myself. Still haven't quite made my mind up. I'll be getting a quote so will decide after that. There is some satisfaction to be had by doing some of it myself so that factors into the decision too.

Mr Nick · « **Reply #38 on:** July 15, 2013, 22:48:42 »

Mmmm, a blasting cabinet: on my wish list....

Proper blasting & powder coat will leave you with a better looking and more substantial finish but a lighter wallet as well: there will be plenty for you to do yourself for it still to be your resto while still getting the bigger bits done for you.

There is something satisfying about spending days effectively just getting back to where you started but knowing it was all your own work.

Juvecu · « **Reply #39 on:** July 17, 2013, 22:39:05 »

I've had a think and decided I will get the frame, sub frame, swingarm, engine bars and wheels powder coated. I might add to that list, but I don't think anything on it will get removed. The other little things I'm going to sandblast and spray myself.