I have finally located the coolant leak....

[Sharpy]

It is coming out of this small hole just below the pump, not sure if this is a pressure release or something or if there should be something in there to stop the leak...

[Sharpy]

So looks like I am missing part 9 & 10, can anyone confirm on there Vee that there should be something in the hole...

http://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/conte ... covers.htm

[iansoady]

Someone who knows (far) more than I do about Vees and Wees will probably be along shortly but most water pumps have a similar hole so that if the seals on the coolant side of the pump leak the coolant will come out into the open (thus acting as a warning) rather than find their way past the oil seals into the engine oil.

[Sharpy]

Cheers, I suspected something like that when I noticed it. Looking again I don't think anything has ever been in there so looks like its "meant" to leak but not sure why!  Good suggestion though! If confirmed I will need to do some taking apart!!

[mr_diver]

9 & 10 on the microfiche is present on your bikes, it's the bolt visible in your pic.

[Sharpy]

Yeah just figured that out after a closer inspection, it does look like a weep hole.  Just need to know what I should do now!  Never had this sort of issue before.

[Big Al wi the Vee]

I've just had a look on my DL1000 and there is a small metal pipe and hose that comes from that hole. As suggested it could be a pressure release hose. so that is what your missing!
 Do I get a prize?

[greywolf]

K2 and K3 Vees didn't have a hose, just the hole. It allows coolant or oil that gets past a seal to escape so the owner knows a seal has been compromised and the double seal #3 prevents oil and coolant from mixing. Occasionally, a bit of grit at the seal interface can cause a leak that goes away when the piece gets washed out. You may be able to wait it out or stop the suspense and replace the seal as it may never stop. http://blacklabadventures.com/category/ ... ater-pump/ covers rebuilding the pump on a 650 which is very similar.

[Sharpy]

I think given that I have been trying to locate the leak since October it is safe to say it is not going to go away... looks like I am going to be stripping her down soon to get at the bearings that are on the inside of the engine!

So I need a part list for the job.... Might actually get the chudder fixed while its apart, just need a clutch tool if anyone has one I can borrow at the time?

[greywolf]

I would replace the following:

#3    SEAL,WATER PUMP        17470-02F10    
#4    OIL SEAL                       09283-10005    
#5    O-RING,WATER PUMP    17435-02F00
#6    BEARING,WATER PUMP  09262-10016    (two required)
#7    E RING                          08332-1108A (replaces 08332-11086)

[Sharpy]

Great thanks GW, I will get the bits ordered and look to make a start soon.  Hoping its not a massive pain to do, still some of the parts are not cheap despite the fact they are small!

[Sharpy]

Do I have to replace the bearings?  On a bit of a budget (thanks to pending redundancies in work) and they are over 50% of the overall cost!!

[Sharpy]

Bitten the bullet and got the stuff ordered.  Will start getting it stripped down at some point soon...

[greywolf]

The seal is the only "have to". I would want to replace all the wear parts if I was going in.

[Fatbelly]

Older radiators get full of "gunge and crap" that could cause a partial blockage allowing pressure to build up and leak past a pressure seal. I'd try simply flushing out the radiator before I started spending money and time.

[greywolf]

Older radiators get full of "gunge and crap" that could cause a partial blockage allowing pressure to build up and leak past a pressure seal. I'd try simply flushing out the radiator before I started spending money and time.

Excess pressure would only come from a bad radiator cap, a stuck thermostat or a full blockage. That would be very unusual. Radiator caps normally fail by reducing the pressure they will hold. A full blockage between the water pump and radiator cap is something I've never heard of. A stuck thermostat would cause an overheat warning on the dash in short order. Testing or replacing the radiator cap would not be out of the question but it would be unlikely.

[Fatbelly]

I'm sure you are right, I'm probably just paranoid because I once suffered a blockage of that nature on one of those super-reliable Hondas. I kept reporting seepage at the hoses at every service - then, as soon as the warranty period was over......

[Sharpy]

Okay so after getting the clutch basket back it seems the leak in the coolant was in the mechanical seal in the water pump, I noted as I started to take it apart that is where the coolant would come from.  Annoyingly I have been thwarted by not have a seal, so waiting for that to arrive, some pics if anyone is interested.











Getting there but a tad annoyed I missed the £4 oil seal I needed to order.    

[Sharpy]

Sooooo, the oil seal arrived today and I set about getting it back together, about 10mins into the final stage of the rebuild guess what I found! Yep.... The oil seal... turns out I had it but it was "hiding"  

But, got it back together started her up and so far all seems well, need an MOT which I am hoping to get done on Friday, so then I will know if the clutch is fixed, as it stands there are no coolant leaks or oil leaks but I reserve judgement for now!