Author Topic: WANTED: A Definitive Guide to Dealing with Rust.  (Read 989 times)

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Offline Descolada

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WANTED: A Definitive Guide to Dealing with Rust.
« on: April 22, 2013, 11:24:41 »
Hi Folks,

I spent a few strangely therapeutic hours over the weekend with rags, a toothbrush and a can of ACF50, trying to control the spread of the dreaded brown stuff (rusticus pain-in-the-butticus). To be clear, I wasn't expecting the get rid of it with a toothbrush, just clean off as much crud from the surrounding area and protect with the ACF-50.

However, I am pretty shocked by how this stuff has spread over my bike during the Winter months. Especially given that I tried very hard to clean and (at least) WD40 the main areas on an almost daily basis. I can see rust on an open 'wound' (an area where the previous owner was less than careful at not scraping the old girl down some wall), I see bubbling (where the rust has started to develop under the paint) and I see pitting on the engine casing.

Some of this is in easy to access areas and can probably be cured by sanding down and then spraying with many layers of Hammerite smooth black. Other areas are in not so easy to access parts of the bike. These in particular worry me, because I have seen others who (maybe not in this forum) have supported simply stripping the bike down to it's frame, sending it for powder-coating and then rebuild. I have neither the experience or the garage, nor the toolset (am working on this) to complete such a bold task.

So, my question to you is this. How do you heal with rust when it appears on your bike. What techniques and processes have you used over the years that you know to be effective (and where possible) long lasting. Do you refer to other Internet sources for advice, and if so, where are they. Do you only deal with easy to reach outbreaks and tackle others with a different approach. Do you simply book your ride into the local bodyshop and let them take care of the work. Do you find that specific paints work better than others. Do you use different kinds of paint products depending on what it is you need to repair (for example; a smooth paint for main frame areas but a rubberised paint for others. Perhaps you use a high temperature paint to deal with problem areas close to the engine (and thereby exposed to high temperature).

Perhaps you just let the rust do its thing?  :groan:


We have a massive font of knowledge in this Owner's Forum and maybe this could be the start of a compendium to add to this resource?

Des

Offline Andy M

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Re: WANTED: A Definitive Guide to Dealing with Rust.
« Reply #1 on: April 22, 2013, 12:45:30 »
Motorcycles manufacturers seem to have an amazing ability to pick materials with the chemical compatibilities of Saturday nights Kebab on a Thursday and the mechanical qualities of both cheese and toffee  :angry-tappingfoot:

I ride my bikes and accept that by doing so in the winter I will suffer from the built in lack of quality. I actually view the pain of a few hundred quid on trade in day as the lesser evil over giving up a ride on a decent winters day or because the BBC say it might snow in the Hebrides and Leeds council have a zillion tons of salt going spare. I view by filthy scruffy bike as evidence I am a rider not an owner, life is too short for fake chome. I would buy a better quality bike but no one makes one, they just charge more for the same rubbish.

Things I will spend time doing though:

1. ACF and WD40 before winter.
2. Undo and apply copperslip to any fasteners you might need to undo before they corrode. Replace non-stressed ones with stainless.
3. When I change the oil or tyres and big bits come off I go to town with the cleaning and preservative stuff.
4. When rust is spotted arrest it faster than a man with a shot gun heading for a post office. Grease, paint, chewing gum, anything that keeps the air out. I wouldn't remove it though, rust itself slows the corrosion of the good metal underneath.
5. Neat paint needs preparation and access, so engine case paint is pointless unless you are taking the motor out. You can't paint the banjo bolts on the radiator without draining the fluid. I therefore take the approach of not giving a hoot what it looks like if its a working repair. Hammerite* on the rust, nail varnish, heat proof paint et. will stop the rot and above all stick.

*If you spray Hammerite smooth over the hammered stuff you get the best of both, one sticks the other looks better.

6. Take things off you don't need. Pillion pegs can't rot if they spend your ownership of the bike stored in greased paper.

7. Big jobs need big solutions. If you are doing a rebuild don't scrimp like the manufacturers. If it's down a bare frame send it to the powder coaters. At 21 years old one of my MZ's looks better than my Wee at 11 months. The frame was coated, the forks and engine painted and the rest is plastic. I can forgive a Communist whose paint was 90% cabbage based, BMW, Honda, Suzuki etc. should hang their heads in shame.

Andy

Offline jimbo8098

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Re: WANTED: A Definitive Guide to Dealing with Rust.
« Reply #2 on: April 22, 2013, 14:01:56 »
Yes! Great advice. S100 , Gunk , WD40 , Muc Off , Hammerrite , toothbrush , old rags and grease. If you have all of those winter is sorted. Gunk on its own does the same as all but the S100 and Hammerrite though! Gunk is also great on my rims but you need to be careful with it and not get it on your tyres.

My advice is keep a close eye on your chain. Put the S100 on your bare metal and it won't rust , that means the heads of you forks.

Offline Descolada

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Re: WANTED: A Definitive Guide to Dealing with Rust.
« Reply #3 on: April 22, 2013, 15:01:17 »
Clarification please, I am not familiar with S100.

Is this "S100 Total Cycle Corrosion Protectant". It sound very like ACF50?

Offline stibbs

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Re: WANTED: A Definitive Guide to Dealing with Rust.
« Reply #4 on: April 22, 2013, 16:55:19 »
Well I would pitch in to this thread wouldn't I?

http://www.allyearbiker.co.uk/Booking.html

Try this link. For £60 you get all year protection and a nice shiny bike.
Your nearest operator is Glasgow.
We can't cure rust but we can arrest it and protect the good metal from getting any :)  :thumb:

Offline blackops

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Re: WANTED: A Definitive Guide to Dealing with Rust.
« Reply #5 on: April 22, 2013, 18:13:47 »
I used to think that Honda were the best as far as build quality and finish were concerned,now I'm not so sure the Transalps suffer badly from corrosion, perhaps all the big manufactures have cut back on their overall quality standards ? Have any members had any serious corrosion issues with the Glee.

Offline UK Jester

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Re: WANTED: A Definitive Guide to Dealing with Rust.
« Reply #6 on: April 22, 2013, 18:41:00 »
Funny 25-30 years ago I had a Yamaha  DT125LC  used it in all weathers all year round  :auto-dirtbike:  never washed it only got a wash when rode in the rain and was kept outside under a cheap cover and it never had any rust problems now bikes just get a sniff of the rain and they show signs of rust,
 :angry-tappingfoot:
As I have grown older,I have learned that pleasing everyone is impossible,but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake.

Offline jimbo8098

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Re: WANTED: A Definitive Guide to Dealing with Rust.
« Reply #7 on: April 23, 2013, 08:38:24 »
Quote from: "Descolada"
Clarification please, I am not familiar with S100.

Is this "S100 Total Cycle Corrosion Protectant". It sound very like ACF50?

Yup , that's the stuff. You'll get a tin for £14 , does exactly the same job as ACF50, just a bit cheaper.

Quote from: "blackops"
I used to think that Honda were the best as far as build quality and finish were concerned,now I'm not so sure the Transalps suffer badly from corrosion, perhaps all the big manufactures have cut back on their overall quality standards ? Have any members had any serious corrosion issues with the Glee.

The old 125 was a Honda NX 125 Transcity - Italian import! Was in a bad state but we powder coated the frame , swingarm and repainted the engine and it made some difference!

There are a few problem areas on the new VStrom , there is a component just behind the frame on the left side which has little metal tabs on either side. These tabs started developing rust within a few days of buying the bike. I put S100 on it but it still developed rust.

The other part is the the hose joiner for the radiator. This part is a little T junction but it gets eaten by the Scottish salt. This was fine for a few months but has begun developing rust really quickly now. Actually starting to think forwarding it to Suzuki is a plan...

Apart from those two , there isn't much else. Just make sure to stick some S100 on your bolts when you get the bike.

Offline Andy M

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Re: WANTED: A Definitive Guide to Dealing with Rust.
« Reply #8 on: April 23, 2013, 12:21:43 »
Quote from: "jimbo8098"
Quote from: "Descolada"
......
The other part is the the hose joiner for the radiator. This part is a little T junction but it gets eaten by the Scottish salt. This was fine for a few months but has begun developing rust really quickly now. Actually starting to think forwarding it to Suzuki is a plan...

.....

Mine too. About to get painted.

Andy

Offline Strommer

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Re: WANTED: A Definitive Guide to Dealing with Rust.
« Reply #9 on: April 23, 2013, 12:27:24 »
Removal of pillion pegs will stop them rusting for sure, though on the old/classic strom these give a good deal of side drop and slide protection and I left mine on.  They have proved their worth twice so far...and just need  bent back into position after your moment....


A disgrace to biking...