Clutch Bite Point Adjustment

[Strommer]

Anyone know how to adjust the clutch  bite point?  

I've done the clutch adjustment as per the manual (3 times now) and the bite point now is right next to the handlebar, I prefer it much further out so I can vary the amount of clutchiness I use.  This is causing me real "nearly falling-off" problems as there is no power when I expect it.  I did the pushrod adjustment as specified (all the way in then out a 1/4).

There is no slack at the handle bar end and at the clutch end there is no more cable left to tighten as it is at its max tightness.  This is odd as normally there is floppy slack at the lever yet the  bite point is still nice and far out.

The background to this is that I couldn't get neutral last week and tightening the slack on the handlebars helped a bit and since I hadn't done a clutch adjustment for 5k I guessed it was overdue and did it at the weekend.

My guesses are that either I need to do something to the pushrod or the cable or the clutch need replacing...The current cable is about 15k old.  Previous one lasted 15k.

Help!

[greywolf]

Have you tried adjusting the cable end at the engine end of the cable?

[Strommer]

Have you tried adjusting the cable end at the engine end of the cable?

That's what I mean when I say I've done the recommended adjustment.  There is no more cable to adjust it's fully tight.  

Just to clarify, there is now no cable slack as it has all been taken up at the engine end.  When I pull the lever there is no slack at the lever end and the cable pulls immediately.  What doesn't happen is any response from the clutch until the lever is nearly against the handlebar.

To summarise, when I pull the lever I am not pulling slack, the cable responds immediately - it's the clutch that isn't responding to the pull of the cable.  I have done the push rod adjustment as well.

Quick thought...when doing the pushrod adjustment, should the clutch cable first be totally loosened off?

[greywolf]

The clutch cable must be loose when doing the push rod adjustment. Also, after backing off from contact, hold the center adjuster in place while tightening the lock nut so it doesn't turn with the nut.

[Strommer]

I think you may have hit the nail on the head.  I'll re-do (attempt 4) with a loose cable before work tomorrow, in the sleet...I'm loving this....

The ironic thing is....I printed and laminated the instructions and was getting all smug, then I realised the instructions have errors relating to nut numbers, now it's clear that the order of the actions is also wrong and doesn't mention loosening the cable...


Thanks GW, will update you tmrw.

[greywolf]

The clutch cable should never be tight. That part is covered in the cable adjustment section.

[Strommer]

Yep, that's sorted it.

The instructions make no mention on releasing all the tension on the cable before performing the pushrod adjustment.  You would think that it wouldn't matter but it does.  It was looking at a Youtube video of the pushrod action that sugested it needed to be loose before adjustment.

Another change to scribbble on that page of the manual.

Thanks for the help.