Author Topic: rear brakes on wee (Read 1357 times)

biker bill · « **on:** August 02, 2012, 15:23:38 »

having had my v strom a week I found the rear brakes don't seem to be very efficient,I have to really press
on the pedal for any response.is this a general fault on this model or could it be my bike that needs some attention. there is no spongyness in the pedal and there is plenty of meat left on the pads,the bike was serviced just before I bought it and would have thought it would have been sorted then.any ideas?
also when loaded up with panniers,top-box how does the pillion rider climb aboard ? my missus finds it a bit hard on her legs striding over? is there an easier way!!!(stener stair lift maybe)

Strommer · « **Reply #1 on:** August 02, 2012, 15:26:12 »

Brakes...yep they're shit. Braided hoses is your best bet and GG pads (rear only) give better feel. HH might stop you better though.

greywolf · « **Reply #2 on:** August 02, 2012, 15:48:49 »

The rear brake on a dual sport is designed to be for light use. The idea is a quick stop on pavement unloads the rear on a tall bike so it's too easy to lock the rear. That isn't a real problem with an ABS equipped model but the brakes are carried over from the non ABS bike. Also, off pavement use requires the brakes be easily modulated in low traction conditions, especially the rear which is much more important for off road use than on road use. The bottom line is a rear brake does not need to be a strong stopper. Most riders under use the front and over use the rear. The rear brake is mostly for control and does a very small percentage of the work done by the brakes in a stop.

http://www.lazymotorbike.eu/tips/braking/#grip is an interesting read on braking though I'm not so sure about rear brake first in an emergency stop.

TravellingStrom · « **Reply #3 on:** August 02, 2012, 18:06:29 »

Good response there GW, I agree with that.

Having used the rear brake at high speed as my primary means of stopping meant the back end stepped out, not good.

Now that I am more experienced I only use the front for stopping, paved or dirt(with ABS) and just use the rear as a balancer to hold the rear down during extreme front end dive after using all the front brake I can.

The other use for the rear is slow ride bike control when filtering etc

Fatbelly · « **Reply #4 on:** August 02, 2012, 18:35:10 »

Sounds pretty dangerous, riding on the pavement!

How to get on a bike - for pillions.

The man gets on the front and holds the bike upright.

The lady stands to the left of the bike and puts her left hand on the Gentleman's left shoulder.

She then puts her left foot on the foot peg.

Step up on just that foot using the hand on the shoulder to help. You should be standing on the footpeg with one leg - the right leg hanging free.

Put right leg over onto the other side.

To dismount she just stands on the footpegs then does the same in reverse - but not without telling him first.

What do you mean, sexist?

Juvecu · « **Reply #5 on:** August 08, 2012, 15:08:02 »

Alternative way is to put the bike on the side stand, let the pillion mount the front seat and then scoot back to the pillion seat. Then the rider mounts with the LEFT foot on the LEFT peg, rise straight up so your standing on your left leg and put your right leg over without swiping your good lady off the back of the bike in the process (just picture accidentally swiping the good lady of the back!

) Lift the bike upright and off you go (obviously putting the side stand up before you go.) You can do the dismount in the reverse too if it's easier for the pillion. We do it that way because my wife is struggles to mount in the way Fatbelly described.

greywolf · « **Reply #6 on:** August 08, 2012, 16:56:26 »

How did we go from brakes to pillion mounting?

Juvecu · « **Reply #7 on:** August 08, 2012, 17:31:27 »

By paying attention

Both are questions from the OP.

greywolf · « **Reply #8 on:** August 08, 2012, 19:00:37 »

I see. Inclusion in the title would have been nice. In my advanced age, it's hard to see that far back.

ricky · « **Reply #9 on:** August 08, 2012, 21:52:28 »

Quote from: "Juvecu"

Alternative way is to put the bike on the side stand, let the pillion mount the front seat and then scoot back to the pillion seat. Then the rider mounts with the LEFT foot on the LEFT peg, rise straight up so your standing on your left leg and put your right leg over without swiping your good lady off the back of the bike in the process (just picture accidentally swiping the good lady of the back! ) Lift the bike upright and off you go (obviously putting the side stand up before you go.) You can do the dismount in the reverse too if it's easier for the pillion. We do it that way because my wife is struggles to mount in the way Fatbelly described.

I did it this way with my wife when we went touring France for a week, had to really as I pulled my back a few days before we left and didn't really have much power in me to hold the bike up when she was trying to get on the back.
doing it as above made it a lot easier for me.

greywolf · « **Reply #10 on:** August 08, 2012, 22:52:15 »

There is also the possibility of panniers getting in the way. I can't mount to the passenger seat from the rear peg because there isn't room to pivot my foot on the peg without a Givi E36 pannier getting in the way. I can move back from the rider's seat though. There is room to get my heel behind the peg but not enough room to put the ball of my foot on the rear peg.

Sea-Strom · « **Reply #11 on:** August 08, 2012, 23:04:52 »

I too am disappointed with the back but find often it's the angle my foot hits the pedal... when I really get my foot at the right angle the rear brake can be quite good.
As for only using the front most of the time hmmmm not good advice IMO! At slow speed yes but good bikers always get in the habit of fairly equal braking, front and back. If you brake instinctively weighted on the front or back, you can easily come cropper. Bear in mind folks some less experienced riders read these pages too. Don't go too fast, equal braking (slightly weighted to the front) most of the time - stay rubber side down.... that's my advice anyhow.

mr_diver · « **Reply #12 on:** August 08, 2012, 23:11:30 »

+1 for what sea-strom says!

have stupid motor-x boots and can't get precise force on the rear brake, but I can with my other boots.

do also need to clean all the gunk from the lever pivot- WD40 solves it for a while, then it sticks again.

I have always used my rear brake to 'cut' my speed a little on motorways, find it doesn't pitch me forward like using the front, but this is to shave a few mph off while engine braking, not to stamp on it to come to halt.

hookie · « **Reply #13 on:** August 09, 2012, 07:45:39 »

I can't think of any bike that I've ever ridden with a rear disc brake that gives the same feel and control as a good old fashioned drum. The Vee is no exception to this and all too often it doesn't get used very much. I just try to keep the habit of using both brakes as of course one should, but don't really feel it does very much and just keeps the disc clean and shiny!

ilkleyal · « **Reply #14 on:** August 09, 2012, 09:13:21 »

I will stick my nose in at this point

The rear brake is fine on mine, even by applying a seemingly equal amount of force to each brake the rear will only actually provide a small percentage of stopping power. As indeed it should. ABS on bikes so equipped should never be felt working, if it ever is then the rider isn't riding properly. (that will be challenged but its true)

If you want to really improve your riding skills, select a nice country road and aim to ride for as long as you can without touching the brakes. use your limit points and gears to moderate your speed and you will quickly see that you can cover vast distances without braking once. When the lads follow me they always ask if my brake light actually works.

Al.

Sea-Strom · « **Reply #15 on:** August 09, 2012, 10:24:16 »

Quote from: "ilkleyal"

......use your limit points and gears to moderate your speed and you will quickly see that you can cover vast distances without braking once. .

Could not agree more. Engine braking, speed control and planning - the signs of an intelligent biker. Save the brakes for when you need them, I was always taught. Not sure about drums though - I have a drum on my Intruder and you need a lot more notice to come to a halt!

Sharpy · « **Reply #16 on:** August 09, 2012, 10:41:20 »

Quote from: "Sea-Strom"

Quote from: "ilkleyal"
......use your limit points and gears to moderate your speed and you will quickly see that you can cover vast distances without braking once. .
Could not agree more. Engine braking, speed control and planning - the signs of an intelligent biker. Save the brakes for when you need them, I was always taught. Not sure about drums though - I have a drum on my Intruder and you need a lot more notice to come to a halt!

More efficent was well I am trying to ride like this more and more... It takes a bit of adjusting to but when you nail it it feels great, super smooth and quick as well!

ringo grumio nibbler · « **Reply #17 on:** August 27, 2012, 15:57:47 »

My back brake was seized when I bought the bike and after stripping it down and cleaning it up, I had a bugger of a job to bleed them to get any pressure at all back into it. I initially thought I'd cracked it when I took the master cylinder off and noticed the braided hose was put on in the direction of the back of the bike, which is 180 degrees out. However, having just changed the pads I lost all pressure again and the only thing that would solve it was to take the hose off the master cylinder again and then just refit it. I'm convinced there is some kind of an air lock somewhere that needs this action to release it. I even resorted to back bleeding the brakes with a syringe. I just took it for a 40 mile ride and the new pads and rock hard pedal feel have finally given me a decent rear brake. I only really use it to assist the front brakes in wet conditions and to hold the bike on hill starts. I have noticed that the front brakes are atrocious in the wet, especially the first time you use it after riding off. They bleed OK, but over a couple of weeks they lose their pressure and need bleeding again. I'm saving up for braided hoses for the front.

Firestorm · « **Reply #18 on:** August 27, 2012, 18:19:09 »

Pretty much what's been said!. Plan, use the engine braking, use both brakes when braking (for added control). back brake for gently scrubbing a bit of speed on the Motorway and for control when riding really slowly. Feather the back brake for 'U' turns.

Ringo - if your front brake loses pressure over a couple of weeks when standing I'd be surprised if braided hoses fixed the problem. I suspect a master cylinder seal kit is needed. Still fit the hoses though as if yours are the original kit they are 10 years old and past their best anyway.

doboy · « **Reply #19 on:** August 29, 2012, 17:04:45 »

rear brake ? never used it ?