Author Topic: Dual tone horns & fork gaiters (Read 3731 times)

cabra · « **on:** July 02, 2012, 14:18:43 »

I fitted a couple of dual tone horns over the weekend, the original being more suited to a lambretta! "I didn't hear you" is no longer on the options list.

While I had all the plastics off I also fitted fork gaiters, (TRIUMPH BSA NORTON BRITISH BIKE FORK GAITERS - ebay - just the job) having noticed a bit of "pitting"

high up on the fork legs. Japanese chrome is crap.

- I have a 1976 Triumph Trident which I bought new, with now well over 100,000 miles on it, a bit of "tlc" is required - but the forks are as good as the day I bought it!

Locky · « **Reply #1 on:** July 02, 2012, 15:14:08 »

Are these the gaiters ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-BSA-N ... 43a6639541

bat-kam · « **Reply #2 on:** July 02, 2012, 16:05:39 »

How much and from where you got the horns? Was it difficult to put them on?

cabra · « **Reply #3 on:** July 02, 2012, 17:20:41 »

Quote from: "Locksmith"

Are these the gaiters ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-BSA-N ... 43a6639541

Yep, the very ones - perfect fit.

cabra · « **Reply #4 on:** July 02, 2012, 18:22:22 »

Quote from: "bat-gacek"

How much and from where you got the horns? Was it difficult to put them on?

The horns I already had, I have seen them on ebay though @ around £10 +p&p.

Regards fitting, I had read a feed by Kevshek, he had his mounted to the bottom yoke, which would be fine - as long as you don't use the front brake - written off front mudguards are expensive to replace!

Actually it was very straight forward - once I had removed the conservatory that is bolted to the front! Mine is a Vee but I am assuming the Wee/Glee set up is the same. I just used the frame that holds the head lights and instruments in place - bent a bracket round the tube & attached the horn - as per 1st photo. Pull the connectors off the stock horn (after you find the bloody thing!)and run the wires back to a fused relay which is secured in the space behind the battery with velcro (see photo below). Forward from the relay to the poss side of the battery & again forward from the relay to the horns via a twin connector. Fit earplugs, switch on ignition, press button, watch dog take off across the fields.

bat-kam · « **Reply #5 on:** July 02, 2012, 21:11:34 »

I can play about with the mounting but I would have thought that all you need to do to get it running is connet cables from the original horn to one of the new ones and then to the next one? I am very iffy with all electric stuff. Why would you need a relay?

Locky · « **Reply #6 on:** July 02, 2012, 21:19:02 »

If you wired it like that you would fry the horn switch & wiring .It needs to be wired through a relay .

bat-kam · « **Reply #7 on:** July 02, 2012, 21:47:26 »

I need to read up on this relay whings then. Could anyone sugest good place?

greywolf · « **Reply #8 on:** July 02, 2012, 22:16:32 »

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb2.pdf

Locky · « **Reply #9 on:** July 02, 2012, 22:23:36 »

that's a nice bit of info , worth saving

bat-kam · « **Reply #10 on:** July 02, 2012, 22:24:34 »

Thanks graywolf

bat-kam · « **Reply #11 on:** July 10, 2012, 22:14:44 »

what sort of cable have you used to comet everything?

I went to Maplin and they stated to suggest me a few. I could not make up my mind. What should be the thickens?

thanks

cabra · « **Reply #12 on:** July 10, 2012, 22:52:48 »

Quote from: "bat-gacek"

what sort of cable have you used to comet everything?

I went to Maplin and they stated to suggest me a few. I could not make up my mind. What should be the thickens?

thanks

Standard auto lighting cable for the switch to relay, use the next size up for the relay to horns connection - dual horns take a fair bit of power to run them, hence the need to use a relay & slightly heavier cable. Use the same cable for the battery/relay connection - if you don't use a fused relay you would need to put an in-line fuse in the battery/relay connection. Sorry I can't be more scientific about the cable thickness. I hope this helps - the blokes in Maplins are usually pretty switched on if you tell them exactly what it is that you are doing.

kungfupoodle · « **Reply #13 on:** July 11, 2012, 13:50:23 »

If you know the current draw and length then try this for calculating the gauge:

http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/WireCalc.html

Big Al wi the Vee · « **Reply #14 on:** July 11, 2012, 16:15:05 »

Are these Gaiters fitted quite easily without the need to remove the forks etc?

greywolf · « **Reply #15 on:** July 11, 2012, 17:02:01 »

The forks have to come off.

cabra · « **Reply #16 on:** July 11, 2012, 18:16:10 »

Quote from: "Big Al wi the Vee"

Are these Gaiters fitted quite easily without the need to remove the forks etc?

Dead easy, I am assuming that you have a center stand - block of wood under the exhaust (in my case crash bars) so that the wheel is just off the ground - undo and tie back brake calipers and associated pipe work - leave the mudguard on - remove front wheel - loosen yoke bolts and slide the forks legs out. easy peasy.

You may want to remove the conservatory first, only reason would be slightly better access to the fork legs - I didn't bother. You could also recruit Mrs Big All (to help) wi the Vee when you are ready to slide the forks back in. Have fun.

cabra · « **Reply #17 on:** July 11, 2012, 18:19:45 »

Quote from: "kungfupoodle"

If you know the current draw and length then try this for calculating the gauge:

http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/WireCalc.html

:violence-uzi: Toooooooooooooooooooooo complicated - that is turning it into rocket science - which it ain't.

Locky · « **Reply #18 on:** August 04, 2012, 16:40:20 »

Fitted a pair of these gaitors today , took about a hour and they are a perfect fit as Cabra says ..

greywolf · « **Reply #19 on:** August 04, 2012, 17:16:44 »

Gaiters are great. I put them on all my bikes that didn't have them. I have never replaced a fork seal and my bikes have mostly gone well over 50,000 miles. All these had exposed fork tubes to begin with. I also did the additions on a Honda CX500 and a BMW R90S but no longer have pictures.