The F1 light

[johnapp]

Hi just wondered has anyone had the red light on the dash light up and F1 displayed? I was fairly low on fuel, pulled in immediately switched off, restarted and all was OK again.  I filled up later with fuel and there was no reoccurence  of the problem all seemed normal ?

[mr_diver]

that would be the FI rather than F1- Fuel Injection Fault.

and when there's a problem with the control systems or sensors on the bike this will be displayed on the dash along with the Red Oil Pressure warning light.

put the bike in dealer mode http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,7061.0.html

then come back to us with the fault code and description of what you were doing and how you were ridding at the time.

hope this helps

[wal750]

If it's only happened once and cleared after a restart I wouldn't worry about it personally.

[Juvecu]

FI means Fault Indicator, not Fuel Injection Fault.

[greywolf]

FI means Fault Indicator, not Fuel Injection Fault.

Practically, though not officially. I like to say the same thing.

[Juvecu]

Hmm, no idea where I got that from anyway, but it's logical enough to believe It comes on when there is over temp and low oil pressure which are non fuel injection related bits.

[greywolf]

The FI only shows with fuel injection related problems. The red light is a problem light. It is designed to call the rider's attention to the display. It comes on when oil pressure is low, an FI is displayed or an overheat is displayed. The information provided on the display around it indicate the nature of the problem. Of course, if the engine isn't running, there is no oil pressure so the light will be on.

A display characteristic often misunderstood is the CHEC warning. To call attention to the display, a CHEC will fill the temperature bars. People often complain about their bike overheating when they see that but it has nothing to do with heat. CHEC almost always means the kill switch or side stand switch is in the wrong position. On rare occasions, it can be due to a marginal connection between the ECU and instrument panel.

[Gassoon]

Thanks for this discussion gents - I'm amazed at how ignorant I was about the FI stuff! Never really think about it until you get the 'dreaded' indication, I suppose!
You were probably lower than you thought on fuel, then, johnapp...

[johnapp]

Hi, back on this peculiar problem, went up to the lakes last weekend (not too sure if I was in lake ullswater or on the road!!!) anyway on the way up (full tank) the red light and F1 came on  again, pulled in, engine running perfectly, switched off , switched on, light off F1 off and continued up and back without a problem. weird. no one had this problem? regards john

[Fatbelly]

I would guess it's possible that a Fuel Injection fault could sometimes be temporary if caused by air in the system? That would explain an indication that goes away after a restart.

[73bm73]

Perhaps a damaged sensor or signal wire?
Ever checked the error code?

[greywolf]

A dealer with an SDS tool can read stored past codes. The code doesn't have to be current as it does with the paper clip method.

[johnapp]

Hi, just thought I would comment on my top box which I could not open when I got back from the tail end rally yesterday. The key would simply not operate the latch, so I had no alternative other than to drill a very small hole in the lid (above the double walled area) and after some fiddling I managed to push the catch back and the lid popped open. The next task was to take the mechanism cover off and I fortunately retrieved the plastic cam, which was too big to have fallen through the hole at the bottom, unlike the nut which had.

The nut is 7mm (not very common) so a replacement was found & fitted after I figured out the correct way to fit the cam in place. I used some loktite on the thread and tightened it as tight as possible, so it's hopefully as good as new.

The reason for relating this tale, is that my latch mechanism was becoming increasingly fiddly to open the lid, which I now realise, was the nut gradually backing off and making the operating cam less efficient in pushing the latch. If any of you experience an opening problem with the lid, I suggest you check on the tightness of the nut(loktite?) behind the moulding but be prepared for the inevitability of the spring jumping off the latch mechanism (not too bad to refit) a tiny blob of blutak through the hole sorted that problem. cheers