Author Topic: What have you done with your V-Strom today? (Read 1396013 times)

infidel · « **Reply #8460 on:** August 01, 2018, 18:20:25 »

I changed the oil and filter after 3300 miles. Of course its not due yet, but to my mind, looking after the blood early in early engine life ensures a longer and happier life.

Especially when you ride with a lil 'spirit'...

Edited to add..

Also noted at 3.3K, usual black clutch fluid due to engine heat through slave cylinder...and both Front and rear brake fluid pretty dark too. Hot weather probably - may change all brake / clutch fluids also.

.

Jeff in Wales · « **Reply #8461 on:** August 02, 2018, 00:42:58 »

2017 AL7 DL650: 30000 mile service. Odo is at something like 32500. Can't / won't afford the cost of full dealer service (up to £500) so doing as much of it as I can manage myself. Oil and filter done. Valves to be checked tomorrow (first time I've done this) so today got things ready:

TLPower · « **Reply #8462 on:** August 02, 2018, 05:29:09 »

Top man.

wurzel · « **Reply #8463 on:** August 02, 2018, 10:29:16 »

Good work, while in there protect those electrical connectors to avoid issues later.

graingerblaze · « **Reply #8464 on:** August 02, 2018, 14:04:26 »

I decided that it was time to cover up / protect my black frame from boots scuffs. The previous owner had worn away the black anodise on the LH side, as expected, and it had grated on me since I bought the bike.

I purchased from Cosmo some frame covers. Ordered on Tuesday and they arrived today, not a bad service from Greece

They match perfectly but for me I would rather they were made from say 2mm 316 exterior grade stainless, not the 1.5mm 304 interior grade supplied which will rust eventually.

So before I fitted them I scanned them into my CAD system. As I have a laser cutter at work I plan to make my own versions out of black, 3mm thick plastic Delrin sheet. I can add any logo I want, will probably etch the surface rather than cut through then sand blast them to give a nice smooth matt finish. I will make some soon and post photos, for now I thought I may as well fit the supplied ones

Jeff in Wales · « **Reply #8465 on:** August 02, 2018, 16:21:19 »

Plodded on with checking valve clearances.

If I've measured things correctly there are two exhaust valves, one front, one rear and both on rhs that are out of spec.

Exhaust spec = 0.2mm - 0.3mm.

Actual front right: 0.15mm gauge fits, 0.2mm does not. Therefore it's too tight and requires a new shim.
Actual front left: 0.2mm gauge fits, 0.25mm does not. So it's in spec, on the tight side but no shim is required.

Actual rear right: 0.15mm gauge fits, 0.2mm does not. Therefore it's too tight and requires a new shim.
Actual rear left: 0.2mm gauge fits, 0.25mm does not. So it's in spec, on the tight side but no shim is required.

Inlet spec = 0.1mm - 0.2mm

Actual front right: 0.1mm gauge fits, 0.15mm does not. So it's in spec, on the tight side but no shim is required.
Actual front left: 0.1mm gauge fits, 0.15mm does not. So it's in spec, on the tight side but no shim is required.

Actual rear right: 0.1mm gauge fits, 0.15mm does not. So it's in spec, on the tight side but no shim is required.
Actual rear left: 0.1mm gauge fits, 0.15mm does not. So it's in spec, on the tight side but no shim is required.

Does the above make sense / seem okay?

The smallest feeler gauge available is 0.05mm so that's the best resolution obtainable.

I've kind of messed up a bit because it was my plan to measure the clearences and then order the appropriate shims if required. But didn't realise that I can't determine the size of the existing shims on the rear if the front is in bits because I can't turn the engine to get the rear cams in the correct position to get at the shims.

So had to order a full shim kit which will be two to three working days delivery and will leave both front and rear cams intact until it arrives. And it's much more expensive for the full kit. Bugger.

The front centre spark plug came out really easily, hardly any effort required to turn the wrench. The plug threads and the ceramic on one side looks a different colour compared to the rear plug which required a firm effort to remove.

I wasn't thorough enough cleaning the crap off from above and around the front cylinder area. Bits of dust dropped onto the inlet cams. The gauges felt nice and smooth between cam and bucket so I don't think any debris affected the measurements.

Jeff in Wales · « **Reply #8466 on:** August 02, 2018, 16:26:50 »

Graingerblaze,

those frame protectors are a good idea although a bit 'HD' in shiny steel. Black much less blingy.

I stuck some black plastic tank protector stuff there where my boots are scuffing the frame. That's almost worn through now though.

graingerblaze · « **Reply #8467 on:** August 02, 2018, 16:51:36 »

I agree Jeff, I'm not a fan or bright shiny stainless as it will show scratches in no time, defeating the point of hiding the scuff marks.

I could have bought the black version from Cosmo, but again it will scratch and I will be back where I started

So using these as a template, I will laser cut my own from black Delrin sheet which is a very tough plastic and hard to scratch. Delrin sheet isn't cheap but I can make myself a set and several spares for if and when they look aged.

Good luck with the servicing, looking good

tallpaul · « **Reply #8468 on:** August 02, 2018, 17:55:26 »

Jeff, something is wrong with your measurements. It reads like you think there is an inlet and exhaust valve on each cam shaft. Have I read that correctly?

"If I've measured things correctly there are two exhaust valves, one front, one rear and both on rhs that are out of spec."

TLPower · « **Reply #8469 on:** August 02, 2018, 17:58:07 »

@JeffinWales, it's been a few sleeps since I adjusted my clearances but I'm certain I was able remove the cams with the marks in the correct places without any issues. I appreciate mine is the older TL 1000 engine with only 2 plugs.

At least you'll have "stock".

tallpaul · « **Reply #8470 on:** August 02, 2018, 18:00:09 »

The cams on the 1000cc engine are gear driven from an idler sprocket. The 650cc engine is direct chain drive.

Jeff in Wales · « **Reply #8471 on:** August 02, 2018, 19:04:06 »

tallpaul,

it's my poor writing.

I meant to say this:

The rhs exhaust valve on the rear cylinder is out of spec and the rhs exhaust valve on the front cylinder is out of spec.

Make sense now?

I'm not happy that my feeler gauges only measure in 0.05mm increments. Might nip to Demon Tweeks tomorrow and get a set I've just seen on their site. Should be able to get more accurate measurements.

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/sealey-feeler-gauge-35-blade-dual-marked-vs512-seavs512/

tallpaul · « **Reply #8472 on:** August 02, 2018, 19:40:53 »

Phew! Thanks for that, I had visions of a catastrophe!

0.05mm is approximately 0.002" in old money. I would have thought that was sufficient . I have 0.02mm feeler at work and that is about as fine as I would want to go for valve clearance. The 0.01mm stuff we have would be useless.

Mr Nick · « **Reply #8473 on:** August 02, 2018, 23:15:04 »

Jeff - there's a 32 blade feeler gauge at Screwfix for under £7.

graingerblaze · « **Reply #8474 on:** August 03, 2018, 16:54:05 »

Had a spare couple of minutes this afternoon so laser cut some plastic frame protectors. These are 3mm thick ABS with a quick sand blast (needs more but gives an idea) to give a matt finish. I etched the Suzuki logo into them, might have a play with other variations and words next week

What do people think? I'm wondering if it's worth me making some to sell on eBay? I can purchase any colour plastic (or clear), add any logo or wording if required. Is it worth it or am I alone in thinking there may be a market for these?

Mr Nick · « **Reply #8475 on:** August 03, 2018, 17:47:22 »

Looks good: I'd probably print something with a boss to fit the hole to secure if I still had a DL.

The downsides to your idea I see are twofold: dirt can build up behind the plate aver time as it won't fit flush with the ds tape, and you'll have to unstick it any time you need into the swingarm pivot. Not often, granted, but something to note.

Olivier · « **Reply #8476 on:** August 03, 2018, 17:59:12 »

I don't know if there's a market for these protections, but know that, when I take delivery of my 650 (end of August), if you can make me a pair, I'll be a taker (subject to the price you ask for, of course).

graingerblaze · « **Reply #8477 on:** August 03, 2018, 18:27:33 »

Good point Mr Nick, I did think of this hence the foam tape near the edges around the perimeter. However you're right, I believe the newest models have a rubber version which would be best. I'm not going that far, just thought if cheap enough these would be worth a go

I wasn't too happy with the purchased steel versions from Cosmo (nearly £30 with postage), hopefully just a quality woops. They obviously came straight off a laser cut bed as the edges were very sharp, I had to de-burr before fitting. Plus being 1.2mm thick, they will protect the frame but will take lumps out of my boots

So if you're after some, then 3mm thick plastic is pretty good. I will have a play with some other graphics and detailing, but I'm thinking of selling around the £10 + postage mark for members on here

Ridaz · « **Reply #8478 on:** August 03, 2018, 19:09:42 »

I like them and would consider buying if I still had my Glee

Asmith61 · « **Reply #8479 on:** August 03, 2018, 19:35:48 »

I like them if you do make some up I will take a pair please