What have you done with your V-Strom today?

[Joe Rocket]

I've been promising myself to check the valve clearances and change spark plugs while I'm there. This is the 'deepest' I've been in the engine and gave me my first attempt to find out what all the fuss is about the front cylinder. First efforts to get at the spark plug was poor. How the hell are you supposed to get tools in there? The radiator was loose and I took the rubber shield off it too.....it just didn't move very far. Determined not to take the radiator off, and all the front fairing I managed to release the two cheeks off the radiator. Now we're talking space! I must say the Suzuki spark plug spanner was just right too.... a big surprise. I've held the radiator forward on a lightly pulling bungee attached to the front wheel. I took out the coolant reservoir too to give full access to the rear valve covers too. I'll let you know the findings after 46,000 kms (29,000 miles).

[porter]

I would have removed the radiator, it's only two hose clips and a block connector for the fan and it's off giving you much more room to check and adjust if needed.  I'm sure the coolant could do with a change anyway.
  It'll be interesting to see if the valves are still in spec at 29k miles

[graingerblaze]

I cheated and got an expert to check my bikes shims at 26k. They were spot on, right in the middle of the tolerance band. The mechanic spends his days rebuilding SV650 race bikes so I trust him. He did say it was good to follow the routine but these engines are bulletproof and even if slightly out they would still run good. Always good to know.

[UK_Vstrom650]

Yesterday I tackled the rear brake light switch again as it's been sticking on and off for a while. Lots of adjusting the switch and lubing the pedal pivot seemed to sort it previously but then it returned. There was me thinking I may need a new switch when I noticed the pedal wasn't returning fully. Closer inspection showed the footpeg lowering kit was moving slightly, so removed and tightened, reinstalled and adjusted the switch again and now all working again 
Annoyingly, fixing this flattened the battery so that's on charge again. Might be time for a new battery as the current on is 6yrs old now...

[Joe Rocket]

Thanks porter . The Haynes description to remove the radiator requires the fairing to be removed. I don't know if the lug fixing into the side of the radiator is the same between Wee and Glee. I did expect more access to simple elements like spark plugs than having to undo everything.

I'm changing the coolant anyway but again the route is all or nothing if you don't already know.

One small step for motard.......

[UK_Vstrom650]

Hi Joe, if I remember correctly you're almost at the point to remove the fairing now anyway. Aside from the electrical connectors, I think it's just two bolds near the headstock that hold it on. It pushes slightly clutch side and lifts off.
I did it to do my sparkplugs/valve clearance and it does make it much easier.
Good luck.

[Joe Rocket]

Well, I got it done without removing the fairing. I fully concur that it would be easier with the radiator out of the way, lots of knuckle damage endured. Good news is the clearances are within spec. so nothing more to do than put it back together. One tip I have is to remove the top spark plugs after the valve covers and then replace them before refitting the covers (just easier to screw them out and in). So, new plugs, coolant, air filter and oil/filter. 

[Joe Rocket]

I've memories of stripping threads on spark plugs (on old bikes back in the day) Now they are smaller, more vulnerable and often awkward to get at  requiring knuckle type or very long spanners. Last night I worried about putting the last spark plug back on the side of the rear cylinder as it wouldn't turn more than a couple of turns before becoming stiff. I cleaned the threads a few times, tried old plugs too but they all behaved the same. I prefer to sleep on problems so this morning I felt I'd worked the problem out, my reasoning was this: I'd checked the valve clearances and had no hassle with the front plugs. The rear top plug went in easily enough so why not the side one? Well I'd left the crank in tdc position so screwing the plug was compessing the air in what little space was present in the cylinder head, enough to tighten the thread in the plug socket. That might sound unlikey but I moved the crank 180° by hand and....H e y presto, the plug screwed in! I'm gong to put a lot of this down to my reluctance to exert considerably more force to the plug spanner. Am I right or did I simply reassure myself that there'd be no problem today? 

[endintears]

If it doesn't feel right DO NOT KEEP GOING is pretty much the universal advice in my experience.
You did exactly the right thing Joe.

[purplebikeunicorn]

Have obtained another suspension link (in decent nick too, sleeves pristine, bearings seem pristine, no play anywhere). I was pricing up new bearings, however, the one bearing (17x24x26?) is seemingly a special size. So only a few places actually sell them!

Planning to leave mine on now until I get the chance to have another go at the front bolt, and failing getting it off, I'll just take the replacement to the garage to pop on for me. If I end up not needing it I'll pop it up for sale on here!

[Barbel Mick]

Yes, there is one bearing size that isn't that common. When I got mine from my local bearing shop they had to order it, but it only took a couple of days to arrive. I presume it'll be that one, I can't remember now.

[purplebikeunicorn]

I tried a local firm, they told me they wouldn't be able to get it. The others were in stock though (and if I'm correct, the special size is only 1mm longer in width than the other!). Wemoto have them for £10 each I found after a bit more searching - they also have a bearing + sleeve for £10 too, but I'm not entirely sure which position it is for, I think it's for the bottom of the shock.

[graingerblaze]

Played around with my ‘Laser Monkey’ to get the rear wheel perfectly inline. Not sure why such negative reviews for this little tool, as it’s far more precise than lining up notches by eye. That works mind you, been doing that for years, but the laser is just easy and lazy 

[The Doctor 46]

Would that Laser Monkey work on a V-Strom 650DL without removing the chain guard? It looks like a useful tool and I'm glad it has your endorsement. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165901489798?epid=19034027940&hash=item26a07fd686:g:UZMAAOSw~d5jPZ2h&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAwBQcfnnv9rI01VXNeWBAroxQpupFz3ehxEVTz1zFV9IifB9B%2FwCjk1RNyA7bWybDF8TWLDS4NiyZaSW0KnogW3tPk%2BFfHb2b1Z%2BlpS%2FN3QyybYwt%2FbtrG5C0stVQSLlkGO2vNPfZuLeVwK%2BzmLvIOcdoVOLBvmELbRlWz0pEzc2DKqChT%2BckvCZVTlawEKsTK%2Bw8%2FBFnGzgj64dpHm2aKuvWt1Nakc0VUjzzqdnTqS94WyykvPm7jbhr6v%2B1zeUBCg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7qSl5vaYQ

The cheapest I could find and a good price too.

[Ianmc]

   I can’t use mine without removing the chain guard,I was a little underwhelmed when I first tried one on my L2,the battery soon fizzled out,plus mine wasn’t accurate,I set it up on a long spirit level in a vice and it was off centre  by about 15mm roughly the length between the two sprockets,I filed it to square it up.
    I have given up with it now and have made a tool to fasten the two ends of a length of string at the front of the bike.It’s MUCH more accurate as it’s over a longer length.More setting up initially but much more accurate in my opinion.Plus the Lazer Monkey relies on the rear sprocket bearing to be perfect for it to be accurate.

[graingerblaze]

You do need to lift the chain guard, not completely remove, just remove the closest bolt so it can pivot up out of the way. I have found it very accurate so far, but then maybe they have recently improved it as I only got it last month. There are very mixed reviews, from happy customers (like me) to those that think it’s a waste of money.

I have found I almost never need to adjust my chain, over the last 10k it’s barely stretched so I haven’t needed to adjust anything. So for me this laser works great, for the odd double check of alignment I’m happy with it. As I say, many people not so happy so up to individuals if they want to try/risk it.

Love the string idea, very bulletproof 

[Whiterose]

I found the best way to check the chainline is to use a steel rule or even a length of aluminium under the chain and tight against the rear sprocket.

[Brockett]

My chain alignment gadget has a rod/ pointer that aligns with the chain. No Batteries, no laser and to be honest I have very little faith that it is held square on the rear sprocket.    My old 1961 Royal Enfield had snail cam adjusters and these worked fine.

[The Doctor 46]

When I was a little boy I remember my Dad using a 2x2 piece of wood between the back and front wheel to line up the wheels rather than look at the chain.

I don't know how accurate that was because the front wheel is usually thinner than the back but he was a very clever man so I'm sure he knew what he was doing. 

[Brockett]

Good grief man - not now. Have you seen the price of wood?