What type of oil?

[RonanOB]

Hi all,

This seems a fairly straightforward question but not too me I'm afraid- especially when I started to google...What type of oil should I use in my beloved wee??? The user manual just said it should be API:SF or SG (10W-40) -couldn't see if that was synthetic or not???  Needlesstosay I'm a willing *novice* to motorcycle maintenance.   Anyway I have a couple of questions:

- I used Shell Helix HX7 is this OK?

- Also I put a tad too much in (!!!) - its just above the window. Was planning on using a straw and suck approach (probably with a syringe) to get it back to the right level, is this OK?

I'm afraid to use it until I'm 100% sure....

Thanks

Ronan

[Quoman]

you should be OK with a "tad" above , but obviously not waaay above!! if you want to suck it out though.......
 we use semi synthetic comp4 (silkolene) oil at my dealer, so if its good enough for them.....!

[Juvecu]

Which type of oil is a discussion that normally contains a lot of opinions and myths. It seems that the quality of oil used in someone's motorcycle is directly proportional to their fanaticism and/or budget. I do a 172 mile commute a day, 5 days a week + some weekend riding and I only use reputable brands of fully synthetic motorcycle oil. This might be pointless, but it makes me feel better about hammering the engine for 3 hours minimum daily  

Motorcycles have different oil requirements to cars. For one our engine and gearbox oil is the same and we depend more on our oil for cooling than most cars do. Shell Helix HX7 is a car synthetic oil and providing that it doesn't have any friction modifiers in it you should be OK using it in the bike. Next time, get something proper like Shell Advance Ultra 10W/40 Fully Synthetic oil (guess what I use   )

Some people will swear by mineral oil in motorcycles, some are happy with part synthetic (I know the Halfords part synth gets a big thumbs up from a lot of people on here.) As with all things, oils are not created equally and it's worth reading a few articles on the subject if you can be bothered (here's one I like to link to anyone interested.)

If you put in a little too much oil it won't be the end of the world, if it's a significant amount then it would be best to suck some out if you can.

[Cyberglass]

I only use castrol racing 10-40w in the wee. I've also just bought a bottle of HALFORDS own which is apparently just re branded Mobil 1.

Always make sure to use a BIKE specific oil in the strom anything else and you risk clutch slip at higher revs.

[RonanOB]

Thanks blokes this is great- I have it parked up and didn't want to touch her til I knew for sure.  I rang Suzuki UK yesterday and they said the Shell Helix HX7 (10W/40) was fine...just.  Still thinking I'd feel better if the right stuff was in there....So might drain and start again....

[dogpuf]

I either use Castrol GPS one or Halfords Motorcycle oil depending on whether Little Bro supplies it or I buy it (I'm Tight) - I always use bike specific oil

Asda sell syringes - Just buy one, bit of tubing and suck some oil out

Or why don't you drain it and then top it up again

Hope you sort it soon

Lee

[RonanOB]

Did a 'wee' service at the weekend- oil and filter.  In the end I went for a complete oil change using Fuchs Silkolene 10w-40.  Putting my previous carry-on down to a first time learning curve.  The Fuchs is a semi-synth and seemably right for the V-Strom with its wet clutch (I believe Synths can cause clutch slipping with wet clutch bikes).  

So the new oil is in- just looking forward to tomorrow when I'm on her again.  I noticed that the specs say it takes 2.7L and she was showing correct levels even though I'd only put in about 2.3L (it does say 2300ml on the side of the engine??).  going to check the levels again tonight incase it settled any more- I did pour some into the new filter prior to fitting it.

Looking forward to 500mile round trip to Belfast in a couple of weeks.

RonanOB

[Juvecu]

Fully synth causing clutch slip is a myth. By itself it won't cause a clutch to slip, there has to be something else wrong with the clutch for it to slip when you use fully synth (eg. tired clutch springs.) Obviously if you put in fully synth that has anti-friction additives (commonly in car oils) it'll greatly increase the chances of the clutch slipping, in that case it's still not the fully synth, just the additive. If you make sure the fully synth is for motorcycle use then it won't have any of the anti-friction additives and it'll work a charm  

[RonanOB]

Thanks for that Juvecu - Maybe I'll try the fully synth next time. Any suggestions?

In any case the semi oil is in now (with new filter) my first time doing it, and I'm quite proud of myself    I'm sure the bike is running better ;) Anyway Its great to see lovely clear golden oil in the window again.  

Thanks for all your feedback!!!!

[Fat Rat]

I use this

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165507

[stromonoff]

As a new owner as well I admit ignorance as well, but how often do you blokes normally change the oil.

If the service interval is 4k miles do you normally do an interim change at 2k?  Advice welcome.

[doebag]

If the interval is 4K then stick with it unless you are doing lots and lots of short jourmeys where the oil is not getting up to temperature, AND staying there or you ride in dusty sandy conditions.

Just about all my riding is a minimum of 90 miles at a time, and I change at 4-5K miles

[stromonoff]

Thanks, normally long runs so should be okay.  Previous owner was commuting about 45mins each way so no issues there either.

Oil is pretty dark but next service is due in 700 miles anyway.

[Juvecu]

RonanOB, I'd recommend the oil I use since you're asking: Shell Ultra Advance 10W/40 (fully synth motorcycle oil for 4 stroke engines.) Used to get it @ £30 for 4 litres, but the bloke stopped listing it on Ebay, now I get it from this bloke on Ebay for just a bit more. I service every 3.5k miles (which works out to be every 4th weekend for me) and I always change the filter when I change the oil (I use Filtrex filters.) I'm sure there is better fully synth out there, but if it comes to price vs quality the Shell oil does quite well.

ps. I wish I could find a good article that does comparisons of the commonly available oil filters (by manufacturer) in the UK. Using the Filtrex ones because my wife says they make good filters (she's a chemical engineer and Filtrex makes filters for that industry too.) Plus, the Filtrex filters are cheap  

[Strommer]

My dealer put in (not enough) Shell Rotella Fully Synth.  I always top it up with Motul semi-synth 10/40  4t 5100t.

So fully-synth with dead-dinosaur seasoning - works for me...  

If I decide to change before the next service it'll be the motul.  It seems to go "change-me-black" just about a month before the service interval so no need to do an early change yet. (45 mins each way commute plus weekly 350 miler)

[Juvecu]

Since you mentioned Motul, I have researched their oils a bit and as best as I can tell they make very good oils. They make some ester and double ester based oils, these are the probably the best bases for a motorcycle oil.

The "Motul 300V Factory Line" motorcycle oils are fully synthetic and double ester based. They have a 10W40 and 15W50, the 15W50 is the better one, it needs less VIIs (viscosity index improvers) than what is needed for the 10W40 oil. This means there is more of the good stuff - the actual oil. If you're wondering how to tell, since 10W40 and 15W50 looks almost the same: divide the last number by the first number, eg. 50/15 = 3.33 and 40/10 = 4 (lower is better.)

Motul also makes an ester blend based fully synthetic motorcycle oil labeled 7100 4T. You can get these in 10W40 and 20W50 (50/20 = 2.5   )

I'm impressed with the quality of oils and if I can find them for a good price I'd use them without hesitation.

[Strommer]

mmm... my bike sits outside and once I've scraped the frost off it needs to start so I can get to work.. Does the 15 versus 10 equation matter much?  Although I'm in southern softie territory I'm also in a frost hollow and get 4 degrees below the top of the hill....so it's frost most winter days.

[Juvecu]

You need to work out what the coldest temp you will ever start your bike at will be and then pick the right grades based on that. If you know you'll never ride at -10 and below (imagine the wind chill factor!), then 10W/40 will be fine. If in doubt, go for 20W/50.

[MR TiGGer]

Suzuki say semi synthetic, NOT fully synthetic therefore you need semi. I suspect the designers know a tad more than me about these things. And halfods bike semi synth is spot on, you need to be more selective with high revving online fours but low rev vees are far more tolerant
Finally all car oils have anti slip additives so are rubbish with wet clutch engines :-)