DL1000 AL8 ABS INCIDENCE

[Banditbilbo]

Hi everyone.

PLease, let me ask you, in case it has happened to someone, although no matter how much I search and read, I can't find anything.

The motorcycle: DL1000 AL8 2018 70,000 kms

The issue is:

I start the bike, start running, and sometimes the ABS light stays on, other times it doesn't. The traction control normally always turns off.
I stop the engine, repeat the previous sequence and it may stay on or it may turn off normally at 5km/h.
It is disconcerting, a lot, because there is nowhere to look at anything.

That is to say, depending on the situation, the signal remains on or not. I have done a thousand tests, starting fast, slow, with the handlebars turned, straight,....

Diagnosis, code C00, the big nothing. To make matters worse, even though the warning light is on, the ABS acts completely normally, on both axles, so I understand that the pump motor works correctly.

Yesterday I  dismantled the tank, filter box, etc... to get to the front ABS sensor connector.

I checked connectors of both sensors, as well as the ABS module and the ECU. Disconnect looking for any broken, sulfated, loose pole... Nothing

Thoroughly clean the contacts of all connectors with electrical CRC and blowing with air, to rule out ground shunts or bad contacts.

I also measured the ohmic resistance of both sensors with the multimeter, and here I did find a difference, but I don't know if it is normal, since the workshop manual does not specify that information.

The measured values ​​are:

FRONT SENSOR: 518 KOHM
REAR SENSOR: 450 KOHM

That's where I have doubts. Apparently, from an electrical point of view, they should be the same ohmic value.

I would like to ask you, please, if someone can measure the value in ohms of their rear ABS sensor, or if someone has a spare sensor at home, in the garage, or in the storage room and measure it with a multimeter and compare values.

I'm not going to ask you for the front one because it's a big issue, you have to remove the tank, filter box, etc., to get to the connector.

Any suggestions will be welcome.
Regards

[purplebikeunicorn]

There is likely also an ABS diagnostic connector on your bike, on the 2017 650 it's cable tied to the frame under the riders left thigh. It's a two pin jobby (on the wiring diagram, it'll be a two pin connector going nowhere with one line joined to the ABS ECU).

Short the two pins, and it'll flash out any ABS codes that are stored on the ABS lamp. You might find you get a code there that you didn't have through the dealer mode function.

[Banditbilbo]

Hi.
Thank you Sir.

So, I understand that there are 2 diagnostic plugs?

One on the rear side, and the one that you says on the ruser left side?

The last one could be  for ABS diagnostic?

I will check if I can locate and test.

Found some info at stromtrooper that checks and obtains similar values on the front ABS sensor, around 500Kohm.

So will be probable that my rear sensor is damaged, not broken, but deadly touched.

Regards

[Gert]

Please let me / us know what was found to be the cause of the failure. Enquiring minds.

[Banditbilbo]

Hello.

After work done the saturday, on Sunday I tested the bike for about 300km. With several starts and stops.

No ABS fault appeared again.



I have yet to test the test connector of the ABS module, as the colleague in the previous message comments.

I don't know if disconnecting and cleaning all the ABS circuit connectors, sensors,  including the module connector, may have resolved anything.

Honestly, I have my doubts. There is a probability of ABS module "reset" when disconnect battery and ABS  module main connector???

It's the only option I can think of, apart from cleaning contacts.

Any news will be reported to you.

Thank you very much for your interest.

[Banditbilbo]

Hi everyone.

After 5 days and 600 km of travel and daily commuting, there are no new ABS warnings.

Could the whole problem be dirt and/or moisture in the connections of the sensors and the ABS module?

I keep thinking about the possibility that one of the 2 sensors could be slightly damaged, specifically the rear one.

At Stromtrooper I read that the ohmic value of the front one, at least, is close to 500K ohm, which would indicate that mine would be correct.

I'm not sure how good the rear sensor is.

In any case, for the moment the use is correct again without new ABS warnings.

I will continue to report any news or findings To make it useful to anyone who has a similar issue.

Best regards

[Banditbilbo]

Hi.
It comes again.
I will order rear ABS sensor....

[Gert]

Sorry to hear that this fault has not cleared up yet. How certain are you that it is the actual rear sensor that is shuffed or is it your best guess?

I remember you posting that the measured resistance of the rear sensor is 450 ohm vs the 518 ohm of the front sensor, but maybe that could be the normal resistance of these sensors.   Perhaps some kind sole, with the same generation model, would be willing to take resistance readings of these ABS sensors for you to compare?  At least then there will be a record of what to expect wrt the resistance of these ABS sensors, if anyone else is ever faced with a similar complaint.

I wonder whether the L7+ (2017+) models or any other Suzuki models share the exact same ABS sensor?

[Banditbilbo]

Hi everybody.

The ABS problem persists. Even with a fault, the ABS works normally.

Does anyone know if there is an ABS specific diagnostic plug on the motorcycle?

In the diagnostic connector on the back, no fault code appears.

Regards.

[Pete O Tube]

You could have a look at the Healtech website and download the OBD software, you can look at the functions (but you'd need their OBD tool to do anything on the bike) as it certainly allows opening the ABS pump (and locking the ISC valve) and may allow interrogation of any faults.
It mirrors much of the factory diagnostic tool.
Costs about £150 but as said, you can download the software for free and have a look at what it can do before purchase.

[Ianmc]

   This sounds VERY much like the problem I had with my DL650 L2,I looked for weeks to try and isolate the problem and someone on this forum pointed me in the right direction.There are 2 cables coming from the positive battery terminal,one thick one to the starter motor solenoid and a smaller one that goes to the ABS main fuse.Have a really good look at this cable and follow it to the fuse block.On my bike there was a hidden connector below the fairing plastic next to the battery,I had to remove the plastic trim to access it and voila……it was totally covered in green/copper corrosion,it was so bad that after it was cleaned off,(boiling water) the two parts would not fit together and I had to crimp the female part.ABS light worked perfectly after that.The voltage at the fuse was 13 + volts off load but would have dropped dramatically when under load which caused the ABS light to be permanently.
Don’t forget to use anti corrosion grease on re assembly to stop it happening again.

[UK_Vstrom650]

I did wonder if this is why the ABS unit on the 800 has been moved away from the rear wheel to under the tank at the front of the bike, as I bet a lot had issues due to corrosion from rear wheel spray. I've had a hugger on my bike for years and am convinced that's helped a lot to avoid ABS issues, along with regular brake fluid changes and triggering the ABS every now and then.

[purplebikeunicorn]

Does anyone know if there is an ABS specific diagnostic plug on the motorcycle?

Have you checked for a two pin connector that is blanked off on the left side of the frame under where the riders leg would be, as per the previous post?

You may also be able to use a Suzuki 6-pin to OBD cable, with a suitable OBD2 adapter and the "Szviewer" software to read codes from the ECU and ABS ecu. Cheapest option is to find the ABS diag connector and see if it will flash any extra codes out.

[Banditbilbo]

Dear inquiring minds:

1.- Thanks for the support and all answers.
2.- Check once to find related ABS diagnostic plug and I can´t find it. Any pics of the plug or location to try to find again??
3.- Thinking about ordering the Healtech OBD-S01.
4.- Last months battery feels little bit lazy on cold starts.

Battery voltage  measures are different.

Voltage measured with Fluke multimeter:12,6 V
Voltage displayed at the bike display: 11,8 V

Thinking about my ABS trouble,  I had one theory, and I make some jobs around it.

Maybe that a low voltage battery could "set " a warning on ABS module, so this warning persists until the bike is powered off and  on again. This theory, comes from the symptom that, with ABS light ON, the ABS runs perfectly in both axes, so, it seems like there is no present fault or warning at running time, only when the bike is powered ON.

Due to this own absurd theory, battery was removed  and charged at home.

next day, battery was installed again at the bike, and some test were made. Fast starts, slow starts, etc... The ABS light is turning off at 5km/h, so  it`s OK.

2 days after the battery charge, the ABS light comes off perfectly at 5 km/h, as it should be.

It´s too soon to confirm the theory, but it seems well.

Anyway, a new battery is coming to replace the old one.

If there any news, you will be updated.

Regards

[Ianmc]

    The ABS unit is sensitive to low voltage,this was the fault showing when I did an ABS diagnostic test on my L2.You simply join the two connectors on the plug and then turn on the ignition and the ABS light flashes a code that will tell you what the fault is.

[Barbel Mick]

Ian, Banditbilbo can't find the diagnostic plug.

Quote ...."2.- Check once to find related ABS diagnostic plug and I can´t find it. Any pics of the plug or location to try to find again??"

I know yours was/is the 650 & Bandits is the 1000 but it may be in the same position?
Can you tell him where yours is/was?

[Ianmc]

    OK,I have just been in the garage and found the ABS test plug on my bike(L4),and it’s in the same place as on my previous bike(L2).It is on the left hand side (when sitting on the bike),just outboard from the battery,outside the frame rails and just inside the plastic trim.Its taped up to the loom and is a two pin white plug and socket,with 2 wires into it,a black with a white tracer,and a plain orange.On my bike I would have to remove the plastic trim to access it.
   To use it,make sure the ignition is off,remove the blanking plug,link the two wires together and turn on the ignition.Any faults are shown by the ABS light flashing a code,be patient and keep watching until it has totally stopped for a few seconds as there may be a second or more faults indicated.Get a piece of  paper and a pen to record them as I guarantee you will forget them.
     BTW as a point of interest,I spotted the connector that was badly corroded on my previous bike,Suzuki have moved it,possibly to get it away from any road dirt/spray,but it’s still virtually impossible to access without removing the trim.

[Banditbilbo]

Hi.

Thanks a lot for the infos.

I will try to find it  again this afternoon.

In the electric diagram, maybe the white/black&white signed with red arrow at the pic.

[Banditbilbo]

Dear enquiring minds.

It seems that the problem is solved after battery replacement.

Battery was replaced 3 weeks ago. Daily used, with lot of engine starts, and no more ABS fault.

So, I understand that there was no ABS fault as is itself. Maybe during motorcycle turn ON, the ABS unit wil make any kind of check and, due to low voltage, some sensor signals will be out of range, so, the unit shows the ABS light as fault.

Hope to help to everybody with similar issue.

Regards

[purplebikeunicorn]

Bandit, yes absolutely possible. Also possible that the battery was so poor it was not smoothing the output from the charging circuit, resulting in voltage spikes and misbehaving computers.

Just replaced the battery in my car after it's had no start/stop for 4 years and was starting to sound sluggish turning over... the start/stop works every time now, but would have been such a waste to replace it 4 years ago since it still started the car and had no faults otherwise.