Brake pad change

[bonne]

Back from UK holiday. More on this later.

I bought a set of brake pads for my 1050, and I want to change them myself. Never done this before myself. Is the process described here the correct way to do it:



I have the torque specs. But I am a bit uncertain which grease to use. I have the attached which I use for screw threads where I do not want them to get stuck. It is for brake calipers, alcyle phenole c14-16-18. It says smooth handling, no corrosion even on aluminium, even wear... a lot of other things. Good to go?

[Mr Nick]

The tube is Biltema Brake Grease https://www.biltema.no/en-no/car-care/lubrication/grease/brake-caliper-grease-2000034132 so it should be fine on the parts it goes on.
As far as the video goes, it looks OK apart from where he puts grease on the back of the pads, which some manufacturers specifically tell you not to do, EBC being one: https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/partno/lube001
It's something I used to do, but have moved away from as most pads I've fitted recently have had some kind of anti-squeal backing to them and didn't need the grease.

[bonne]

I bought SBS sinter pads - I wonder if I need to grease those on the back?

In the video, the bloke does actually not grease the caliper pistons. As they are moving parts, I would assume they need lube, but maybe the seals are enough to do the job?

Also why not use compressed air to remove brakedust?

[Ianmc]

    What I always do when renewing brake pads,is,remove the old pads and clean the calipers with brake cleaning spray.Then carefully pump out each piston until I can see a clean part emerge,using something like a piece of wood to stop the other piston coming out.Then using a twisted rag soaked in brake cleaner loop it over the protruding piston and clean it.Then using another twisted piece of rag with rubber grease on it, smear a thin layer of the rubber grease all around the piston.
   Then push the freshly cleaned and lubed piston back in and the do the same with the other piston making sure the freshly cleaned one stays in when you pump the second piston out.I served an apprenticeship with a brake and clutch specialist in the sixties and we always used rubber grease to assemble master and wheel cylinders after overhaul.
    Bonne, I would use a little high temperature grease on the back of the pads if even if there were anti-squeal shims fitted.It just stops the ends of the pistons corroding.

[bonne]

I get it... good idea. It would make sure to get all the dirt out. When squeezing the brake lever (gently), I imagine that not all pistons will go out at same speed/level So the wood would keep the "keen ones" back in place?

Rubber grease?

[Ianmc]

    Yes, rubber grease, very common, it will not react with brake cylinder seals etc.You can buy it anywhere.

[bonne]

I guess silicone grease like this:

https://www.biltema.dk/bilpleje/smoremiddel/smoerefedt/silikonefedt-2000030629

?

[bonne]

I am pretty confident about the front brakes as they are easy to get to. The back one is actually hard to get to as it is partly covered by the exhaust. The videos that I google shows removal of the whole caliper, while the service manual indicates that only the rear bolt needs to be removed so that the caliper can be tilted.

I guess that the service manual is most correct, but I want to hear your words on it before I start on the read caliper.

[porter]

The exhaust comes off easily, two bolts only leaving you with much more room to work. I also remove the caliper from the support bracket so as to clean the piston etc much better but I'm sure the official manual can't be wrong.

[bonne]

I will try to pivot it like the manual says. Speaking of cleaning... this was without doubt the most difficult thing to do changing the front pads. I couldn't not get all the black gunk off even though I tried to rub hard. Brake cleaner, rub (even with a toothbrush)..., brake cleaner rub... still black gunk. I pressed the pistons back in and hope they are clean enough.

How decently should it be cleaned?