Charging Problems tested Rectifier and Stator what next?

[Jmarkw]

Hi everybody!! really hope you all can help?

Bike is a DL650 2008, been very reliable up to now. 50,000 miles (45,000 are mine)

Failed to start one morning after few weeks in the garage. Battery was old-ish so swapped it out. Charged new battery took bike out, battery went flat on the way home after maybe 20 miles, no lights no dash etc. Engine running no problems.

Voltage at battery after charge 12.4
Voltage at battery on idle <12 slowly dropping. Same at 5000rpm (if a bit less even?!?!)

Tested rectifier forward and backward diode tests etc  - looks good (well agrees with all the youtube videos I have watched......)
Tested stator - 20v idle for each of the three pairs, 50v at 3000rpm for each of the three pairs

Put everything back. Still getting <12v at battery on idle and can see the voltage dropping as engine running etc and lights going dim......

I'm a bit new to all this, though getting better. What shall I do next? Wiring loom?

many many thanks people!!!
cheers
mark

[Fat Rat]

Hello Mark,

I am only guessing here, if the voltages you have recorded coming out of the Stator are all within spec. I would be looking at connections. However, it would have to be a pretty high resistance (guessing) to take the voltages below 12V.

Start simple, trace wires, look at connectors for corrosion/heat.

Edit: How about the Regulator, that is a possible suspect?

[kwackboy]

There's another test on the stator you can do as it's possible it's gone to earth.

Set your meter to ohms (20k) touch your two probes to make sure your meter zeros out.

Next,

Put your negative probe to the battery negative then unplug the alternator connection from the regulator then, test all three phases coming from the alternator with the positive probe.
(The bike doesn't need to be running)

If any of them zero out , it's a faulty stator even if it gives out correct voltage.

Generally with charging systems, if you get some (but not enough) voltage going into the battery, it can be the regulator at fault.
If you're getting next to no voltage (12v and under) it can be the stator.

[Ianmc]

    Hello Mark, have a good look at the smaller of the two cables coming from the battery negative, the heavier cable goes down to the engine casings and the smaller one disappears and ends up connected to the regulator.There is a connection on this cable about where the middle of the engine Vee is, on my K9 this had moved and was not making a contact even though it looked good.Best of luck as it is a pig to get to.I managed to solder mine together and it cured the intermittent charging problem I had.

[Jmarkw]

Thankyou everyone for taking the time to reply.

Did all the things suggested but still no joy. Stator voltages and resistance spot on, checked a lot of the wiring loom now for issues and grounding and also checked the earth from the battery as suggested - all good.

Got hold of a used rectifier so just going to swap it out and see if the voltages are better. will let you all know

many thanks again - I'm really missing my bike at the moment 

cheers
mark

[kwackboy]

Great news that your stator isn't cooked ..

Yes , was going to suggest trying a known good rectifier..

Good luck .  👍

[Jmarkw]

 

Well it was the rectifier - new one plugged in (after a tussle getting wires out through the frame) engine started and 13.9v at the battery!!

Thanks everyone!!!

[Rixington43]

Always nice when it's the cheapest easiest fix, makes the digging worthwhile 

[The Doctor 46]

Thank you for keeping us informed. I'm glad it turned out to be an easy fix and not too expensive. 

[Gert]

The replacement voltage rectifier regulator that you bought, was it stock or did you opt for an aftermarket  series, like for example: the Shindengen SH847, CARR5925-SERIE R/R, Electrosport or similar?

[Jmarkw]

Hello - not entirely sure what you mean by stock? Its not a Suzuki one if that's what you mean?

Manufacture is MT kyoto uk (??) whoever they are.....

The first thing I did notice when I got it was that the heat sink is smaller than the original - which kind of made me a little wary.....

[Gert]

My reference to the term stock, as in a part from Suzuki spares vs an aftermarket source. From your reply, it sounds like the replacement unit is an aftermarket product, since it is not identical to the part that it replaced.  If you don't mind, a few questions with regards the replacement unit, for reserve knowledge.
Was it a straight plug and play connection or did you have to add an adapter connector first?  Since the unit was smaller than the original, did you have to amend the mounting position or did everything line up?
Do you perhaps have a link and part number to the replacement RR?  It may be of help at a future date, to anyone else who may find themselves in the same boat as you were.

[Jmarkw]

Doh got u now.

Yep plug and play. Didn't actually realise there was a possibility that the connectors could be different? The ones supplied fitted perfect.

Bolt holes lined up perfectly.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Regulator-Rectifier-For-Suzuki-DL650-V-Strom-2004-to-2012-/175149115684?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Cheers
Mark

[Gert]

Thanks for your reply. I see from your 1st post, that you have a K8 Wee.  Looking at the ebay advert listing, they state "Regulator Rectifier For Suzuki DL650 V-Strom 2004 to 2012".
From what I have sourced, the stock part numbers for the R/R of the K4 - K7 vs that of the K8 - L1 Wee, are different. From a parts listing, the K4 - K7 are listed as 32800-16G02, while the K8 - L1 are listed as 32800-41G10 and the L2 Glee is listed as 32800-47H00.  This is due to the stator output / wattage difference.

Not to start an arguement with anyone wrt the info displayed in ebay ad, but certainly lets one think...   It would be interesting to see how this replacement holds up under load at highway speeds, etc.