15000 mile service - DL1000 AL4

[Valves]

So decided to do the 15000 mile service myself and check the valve shims...

Things I learnt very quickly:
1. The front cylinder heat shield is a real 'pig' to remove - x2 electrical connectors are pegged into it and you need to be Houdini to release them from underneth 
2. Why didn't Suzuki make the radiator hoses an inch longer! The front cylinder cover is a bitch to get out 
3. The only way to get the front cylinder cover back in, is to take the fan off the radiator - this isn't in the manual 
4. You need a 14mm deep socket to get the spark plugs out - surprise, surprise, there isn't one in the toolkit 
5. The rear cylinder is a darn sight easier to get at to check and work on than the front .
6. You don't need to disconnect the coolant tank, there is enough hose to move out of the way 

I found x2 exhaust valves, one front & one rear a bit close on the lower tolerance but have decided to leave them well alone. At the 30000 mile service I will probably go for a coolant change as well, so can get the radiator off and out of the way...

Next is to finish re-assembly and then check the injector balancing, oh and for any oil leaks 

[kwackboy]

Well done  . When you do the job again, what you've learnt will enable you to do it in half the time oh, and save you a few £ 

[tallpaul]

Well done! Just one thought though. The wee and vee both had a "special" box spanner with a hinge in the middle for removing the spark plugs as part of the supplied toolkit. Can any other Veek owner confirm if that is still the case? I thought that it was an essential tool to have, hence it being in the toolkit.

[Valves]

Yes, this was in my SV toolkit but not in the DL1000 2015 model kit. The manual says; 'use special Suzuki tool 09930-10190'

The model of spark plug wrench in your photo would not fit the central spark plug hole on the front cylinder (would foul against the radiator) and the manual shows the tool as a socket... Perhaps due to the change to irridium spark plugs

[porter]

I just remove the radiator altogether, just as quick really,  two water pipes, three bolts and one electric connector . My two front cylinder exhaust valves where very close to the minimum clearance at 15k also, I left  them alone and checked again at 25k and there still on the minimum. Funny the  rear cylinder, the one you think would  run hotter,  the valves are all middle clearance.

[Valves]

How much collant do you loose?

[old git]

I removed the radiator on mine too when doing the service. I drained the coolant and replaced it with new. The cost of new coolant is negligible.

[porter]

Same here, new coolant.  If you've gone that far you might as well change it.

[Valves]

AN UPDATE:
Well the service is finished and some further thoughts;

- It is quite amazing how many times you can drop the bolts holding the fuel tank t-piece, which will always drop inside the engine bay, so the tank has to come off again 

- The rubber 'O' ring on the fuel pipe connection will stay in place UNTIL the final tank fitting when it will quite inexplicably jump/drop off and fall between the two cylinders 

- The tank raising piece is pretty pointless. Why didn't Suzuki make the tank raised height actually useful

- Fitting vacuum pipe gauge pipes to the injector bodies, especially the rear, is impossible - using the hoses already connected to the two sensors on the airbox is a lot easier 

- Whoever designed the front cylinder airbox clamp ring access was a real comedian - maddening is an understatement when you can't see the bolt/screw to tighten it

But it is all done now and now to go riding