DL1000 Rebound damping screw (2017)

[bako]

Does any one know how many clicks there should be on the rebound adjusting screw( the one at the top) from hardest to softest.
Thanks in advance

[Paz324]

No idea about how many clicks but for adjusting the rebound there is no definite answer, it depends on how much preload you've set as the dampening is only meant to be dialled in just enough to prevent the shock from returning freely after compression.

And preload should never be set so hard that it removes all slack, if you push down on the rear end and allow it to settle you should be able to pull it up slightly otherwise you have no slack and the shock is hitting the top of its travel.

[oslin]

What I did with mine was to set  the preload first with normal load (important) then take it on the road in my case with my wife on the back because we are almost always two up and then set the rebound just to eliminate any bounce and that has worked out spot on for me.

[hotbulb]

Maybe it's different with the big 'uns, but the "owner's handbook" for my 650 gives the basic, factory, settings for preload and damper adjustment ... start from there and adjust to suit your weight/riding style/local road conditions etc.

[Valves]

If you wind 'out' (-) the rebound adjuster until it stops then 'in' (+) to the first audible 'click' - that is the starting point. Should be about 14 clicks from there to all the way 'in'.

The important part is; are the left and right forks set the same, as the rebound adjustment is set mechanically, by setting the rebound rod distance in relation to the preload adjuster, inside/underside the fork cap... That ensures the left and right forks adjust the rebound to the same 'feel'.

[bako]

Thank you Valves Mine are unevenly set, which accounts for the uneven feel to the front end. I'll be doing the fork oil again soon so will adjust accordingly.

[porter]

Have you not liked  the 2,5w oil you fitted  then?   I've not done many miles on mine from doing  it but it does feel better.

[bako]

Porter: I've got a bit OCD with my forks. The 2.5 was a definate improvement, but changed it for a 15w for comparison. thick oil and cold weather not a good mix. So going back to 2.5

[porter]

That  is  a  big change! I would never use 15w on cartridge forks, 10w max. I've  had 5w in mine this last two years but it was no better than the oe set up. The  2.5 seems better but I do  have the Wilbers springs too. But as you say what feels OK in the winter  might be miles out come the warmer weather.

[Valves]

Thank you Valves Mine are unevenly set, which accounts for the uneven feel to the front end. I'll be doing the fork oil again soon so will adjust accordingly.

I did exactly the same - changed the springs but got the rebound setting wrong and couldn't get the forks to feel right, so did them again and they were fine.

[porter]

A wee update.  Think I'm  getting there, sort of
Front fork still to harsh on sharp bumps but as I'm at the lighest  oil (2.5) and the bigest air gap (150mm) there's not much more I can do without a revalve. I'll  have to live with it.
More success with  the rear Wilbers shock. Got a slightly lighter spring (95nm. 100nm originally). This helped a bit but not too different really.
My shock bloke here had said all along that the 15mm static preload that Wilbers had fitted to the spring (185mm free spring length but 170mm fitted) was high even for a race bike never mind an adventure bike so he reduced this to 10mm. Three full turns off the preload.
Bike riders much better at the  back now.  Ride height much lower than before. Still a firm ride but I like that, you can really push the bike on now with no fear of the rear sitting down like before
.

[Paz324]

Not sure if they overhauled the suspension for the latest DL1000 but as soon as I got mine I lowered the preload to minimum both front and back and after adjusting the compression/rebound to match I can throw it around on the OE A40's like its a sports bike without any issues..

Had someone tell me they expected me to bin the bike during an august meet because I was scraping the foot pegs round corners

[jasonsean484]

hi paz324
when you say lowered the preload , do you mean you screwed out anti-clockwize on the forks and the big screw for the back ,. how much ?
 cheers jason

[bako]

 jasonsean484. Greeting fellow Stokie.
Anti clockwise takes pre load off. Alot of people take it all the way off. Apparently this allows the spring to work more efficiently. On mine,AL8, I took it all the way out then in one full turn.
If you get stuck give me a shout, I'm in Trentham.


 

[jasonsean484]

hi , cool looks like we bought from same shop , that would be great mate , I'm pretty clueless with stuff like that , plus the beak , see post further down , ??
cheers jason

[porter]

Update number 2.  Tried the bike yesterday with  the pillion. Needed to add 5mm preload on the adjuster so that still leaves another 5mm for luggage and more cake! 
With the benefit of hine sight I think I could have saved 125 quid and kept the heavier spring the shock came with and just reduced the preload.
 Ps. Just a heads up Paz324, the main stand hits on lefthanders just a fraction after  the hero Bob on the footrest! Also the ugly exhaust can is mega close  on rights (good excuse to change it!)

[Paz324]

I'm not worried about clearances, my SWMotech stand tucks in quite tight and to be fair I think I'd be on the floor before the silencer caught anything

[porter]

Mine is the Suzuki  stand and I've  caught it a few times and mates have said the washing machine of an exhaust is so close on righthanders it scares  them! Only use it for touring now.