K&N. Is it worth it really?

[himaro]

So I'm going to take the plunge I think and do my own service for the first time in a while (I don't live at home anymore, so I don't have my old mans warm garage on demand(not that I did anyway since he put his Dyane in there anyway)).
Just a simple oil & filters change. Maybe have a little look at the sparks to make sure they're still good. Bikes just hit 30K after all.
Looking about online for the parts and I was wondering if getting a K&N filter is actually worth it? Daily rider and MPG is more important than power but a little extra oomf would always be nice 

Also, apparently they do oil filters as well... Anyone tried them?

[Rusty Nuts]

If the plugs were changed for iridium ones at (7500)? mile service, they'll be fine.
Just an air filter change won't do much except maybe make induction noise louder. K&N oil filters.....  tales of rusting/leaking round the welded on nut. Pays money/takes choice, some prefer one make to another. I've always used original, many use hiflo.

[kwackboy]

Nothing wrong with K&N filters, even the oil filters as they are made by hiflo, just don't tighten them with a spanner, hand tight only.

[mr_diver]

I've fitted K&N filters to both the Wee, Varadero and a Pipercross filter in the GSX14.
No real difference in performance or MPG but induction noise was a fair bit louder.

If you're doing the mileage then they are handy as you take them out, wash them and re-oil them and you then have a new filter.
If you have a normal paper filter take it out for a 'check' according to the service schedule and it could do with changing you then need to leave the bike in bits or reassemble and then dismantle again when you get a new filter.

It's far easier with a washable filter to know you're just going to clean and re-oil it each service.
It's also interesting the look in the bucket after washing and see the amount of mank the filter gathers.

Initial cost is higher but in the long run I will save money with K&N air filter and cleaning/oiling kit over the cost of 5-6 paper OEM filters over the life of the bike.

I tend to use either HiFlo or champion oil filters due to cost and they never stay on the bike that long to rust. Some have complained about the rusting of Suzuki oil filters but I've found they rust just as fast as every other  make. -as kwackboy said don't tighten a K&N oil filter with the nut on the end. It will crack the paint and rust through very quickly. Hand tight with bare hands only.

As far as performance goes - most of the works BSB teams use OEM air filters as they give superior filtration and the induction system is designed to work with them so better performance on the track.

[Munchen]

Criteria for me when servicing a wee isn't about performance but more about the longevity:price ratio.

The K&N air filter is worth that little bit extra cash for reasons already mentioned but I have read about engines sucking in the oil which trashes the MAF sensor - on cars anyway.  Personally I don't bother with them and prefer to use Suzuki branded ones.

I stuck an original Suzuki oil filter on a couple of weeks ago and after reading a few threads and watching some youtube videos I still can't figure out which is best.  I read that the K&N oil filter is just a HiFlo with a fancy shell.  Fram and Wix are rubbish and couldn't find much info. about Champion.

Currently trying to decide whether Motul 7100 is worth the extra tenner over 5100 or if Castrol Power 1 is the way to go.

Decisions decisions. 

[Dave L]

Hi,

I have had a K&N air filter for the past 2 years, easy to service but don't over oil. I oil mine and then let it drip dry for a while before re installing. I am going to try the K&N oil filter this time round as my Suzuki one has chipped and rusted.  I switched to Castrol Power 1 (the synthetic one) last year and I felt the difference immediately with smoother gear changes.  I plan to do my service this weekend.

I change oil and filter every year irrespective of mileage, this worked for my 1981 Suzuki 650 Katana which I rode for nearly 20 years.

[wurzel]

Dave, changing the oil once a year is fine, but if as some you do high miles in a year it should be done more often, at the very least as per service schedule.
Air filters are just a personal choice, to an extent...as long as they are of a good quality.
Same for oil filters, but if steel bodied and painted, they will all rust if the paint is compromised, not an issue unless perforation becomes a potential result.

[mr_diver]

Suzuki do not recommend Fully Synthetic oil for their engines... well more for the clutches.

Really - oil is oil. If it meets the minimum spec it will be fine.
Adatives in most car oils will wreck the wet clutch.
Changing your old oil for new will instantly show an improvement over the gear change of the old tired and thinned out old oil.
Semi or fully synthetic has absolutely nothing to do with it. It's oil of the correct grade that's new and making the perceived improvement.

Synthetic oils are designed for extended lifespan in engines that rev high for extended periods of time (like on track)

Putting fully synth in anything that does not require it as part of the design is a waste of money unless you're doing track days.

Oil of the wrong grade (within reason) will not damage an engine, tired and contaminated oil will.
I run 10w40 in 2 of my bikes that should use 10w30. The Varadero prior to 2007 takes 10w40... you know what changed after 2007?
The colour of the paint on the outside of the casing. 
But I wouldn't put 20w50 in something what wants 5w10! that's a bit extreme.

Much of what the marketing for bike oil says is bo**ocks, it all does the same thing, some come in fancy colours, some come in fancy bottles with fancy labels... it all does the same thing.

[TLPower]

  hit the nail on the head. Good strike Sir.

[kwackboy]

I second that... Great post Mr diver .. 

[Olivier]

As written, an original filter (air or oil) has a high filtration capacity. I replace filters once a year no matter what state I suppose it is.
 
1) The oil filter, important point of the engine lubrication circuit. So, for me, it's original filter.
Never confronted with rust. I put in contact manually and if necessary, light tightening using a metal or rubber tape key. and if still damaged, a light veil of grease will protect effectively.
Also, be aware that a K&N oil filter slightly influences the temperature of the oil, downward.
2) A manufacturer, knowing better than anyone what is best for its engine, recommends viscosity, technology and oil quality, usually 10W40 semi-synt. because adapted to a wide range of operation. Depending on the climate under which you drive, the use of the bike and the engine mileage, it may be wise to adapt the oil.
Also, be aware that a technology 100% synt. will not have the same constancy in time, as a semi-synt. On circuit, it is not uncommon for the synthetic oil to be replaced at the end of each day of driving. For us, it must be able to be constant at least 15000 km, under all conditions.
3) the ease of replacement of an original air filter is undeniable compared to the maintenance claimed by the K&N filter, which will still require any other item of origin or other, in order to continue to use the vehicle the time of maintenance of the K&N. I doubt the financial gain in the long term, for the K&N.
4) Irridium spark plugs, although usable on our trails, are recommended for high efficiency engines. They do not accept city use (traffic jams), low speeds or even under-revs, not optimal operating temperatures that can be with a trail.

We must resonate as a manufacturer who has every interest in selling a motorcycle as successful as possible, and avoid the returns that can cost him, not to mention the word of an unreliable bike, low performance or consisting of elements of basic quality, which could spread in the world of motorcycle.

Here ! Hoping that the translator will not have too much transformed what I wanted to express, and of course only binds me.

[Gassoon]

With commuting, and a total of 30k miles on, I would keep standard type of air filters, but check all the basics like you say - plugs (change to iridium if in doubt) chain condition etc. Also at that mileage a throttle body check and adjust if needed    That would perk it up, I bet!

Decent oil (10w40 ) change once or twice a year (depends on miles mostly).

[Ianmc]

Hello Olivier,please explain how a K&N oil filter lowers the oil temperature compared with other oil filters,and where you got the information from.Be as technical as you need to be please.Also if iridium plugs are not suitable for town driving,why are they original equipment on lots of bikes.Thanks.

[kwackboy]

The cooling of engine oil is the job of the oil cooler not an oil filter . As for iridium plugs not being suitable for town riding , sorry that's way off the mark.
Most bikes are ridden in town so why would manufacturers fit them as standard ?, Plus, are bike engines these days not efficient ..?

[Dave L]

Hello,

Did a quick Google search and this is what I found, from Mobil:

What's so good about synthetic lubricants?
The performance of synthetic oils, and in particular Mobil 1™, is more robust, especially in terms of low temperature pumpability and high temperature stability and protection against deposits. These attributes translate directly into less engine wear, increased fuel economy and longer engine life.

Synthetic oils have been developed specifically to cope with extreme conditions found within modern engines. They are much more free-flowing than traditional mineral oils. The biggest benefit is greatly increases engine protection. When an engine is first started, a mineral oil takes some time to circulate, allowing friction between one-lubricated parts to cause wear. In contrast, a synthetic lubricant starts circulating faster, reducing friction, and protecting moving parts within the engine.

Synthetic motor oils can also significantly improve fuel economy and reduce oil consumption. During the warm-up period of a typical car journey, mineral oils are thicker and move slower, making the engine thirstier and less efficient. Because synthetics get to work much quicker, the engine reaches peak operating efficiency that much sooner and reduces oil consumption.

Another advantage of synthetics in the synthetic oils vs mineral oils debate is that they're cleaner and more environmentally friendly - helping to cut engine emissions when compared to conventional mineral oils. Conventional mineral oils also contain greater amounts of impurities, such as sulfur, reactive and unstable hydrocarbons and other undesirable contaminants that cannot be completely removed by conventional refining of crude oil.

http://www.mobil1.co.in/academy/what.aspx