AL7 650 Suddenly Vibey

[Jeff in Wales]

Hi,

My 2017 650 has become quite vibey recently. My hands have started to go to sleep and there's a noticeable increase in vibes through the foot pegs and seat. The engine seems to be 'normal' until it gets well warmed after a few miles then I start noticing the vibrations.

The Strom's overdue for it's 30000 mile service, just turned 32000. Went to Spain with 28000 on the clock and figured I'd get the service done after returning rather than before leaving.

Whilst in Spain the FI indicator (code 65)  started showing up intermittently although there was never a noticeable increase in engine vibes, that's only become noticeable in the last few hundred miles.

The 30K service includes the valve clearance checks. If my valve clearances were going out of spec' could that lead to an increase in engine vibrations?

Could error code 65 has something to do with it? Looking at threads about error 65 indicate throttle position sensor, gear position sensor and clutch switch issues.

Checked many of the other potential other suspects like loose mountings, chain tension etc., etc., and all seem OK.

To be honest I was undecided about putting the bike in for the 30K service as that seems to mainly entail doing the valve check, that's the bulk of the labour bill and going by what I've seen on other threads it seems like valves are 'never' out of spec' at 30K. Was going to do the rest of the service items myself.

Did get the full 15K service done at the dealer - have to assume they did actually check the valves at that service.

But if it's likely that out of spec' valves could be a factor then I'll take the hit and hope that could sort it. Would be pretty p**** off if I got it back afterwards and it was still buzzy.

[kwackboy]

Hi , error code 65 is the idle speed control valve (ISC) .
This would not cause vibrations , neither would your valve clearances, the symptoms would be completely different.

Vibrations are caused by loose mountings , engine bars , drive chain , wheel bearings , wheel balancing etc ...

[UK_Vstrom650]

I'd check the wheel bearings. My rear ones didn't last beyond 25,000 miles. I also changed the steering bearings not long afterwards (then the front more recently just to know I'd done them all).

One other thing check could be front fork alignment if you've caught a pothole at a funny angle etc.

[Jeff in Wales]

OK, thanks.

I'll have another good look and try to check the things you specifically mentioned.

[tallpaul]

Another possible, but has a wheel balance weight come off?

[Joe Rocket]

I'd go for simple things first; everything fixed properly, tyres/pressures, wheel balancing and chain.

You can get a lot of interference from road surfaces too, horrible noise and feeling at the handlebar.

I've had (sorry, not 'become', I can't understand why that wasn't corrected automatically.....  ) those tingly/sleepy fingers often without reason one day and not another. For me a lot depends on how you've been riding, lots of clutch/brake, weight forward on the bars or just casual with time to relax and hold the grips loosely. Certain gloves can constrict the blood flow too...seriously! Tight summer gloves? 

These things are not always mechanical although I concur with suggestions on earlier posts.

Just my thoughts and pointers........

[Rusty Nuts]

Do the vibes increase or decrease with road speed or engine speed?

[Jeff in Wales]

Hi Rusty,

Vibes tend to become apparent at just over 3500 rpm. They are really noticeable at around 4000 rpm in third and fourth gear. If I hold the engine and road speed there the vibes are really bad. I know there's a vibration 'zone' just after that point normally but this isn't that. It seems worse under 'load' I.e. if I go uphill for example.

Rechecked the rear wheel today. Found a small bit of play when rocking the wheel. Only at one point in it's rotation. Grabbing the tyre between both hands and 'rocking' it I could feel a bit of play. No noise when rotating the wheel, yet.

Dropped the wheel out and bearings felt fine when rotating them with a finger inside or with the axle through them - all felt nice and smooth. The thing I did notice was that the spacer on the disc side was badly scored where the bearing dust seal has worn into it. As well as that there was some play between the axle and the spacer so I put the wheel play down to this and thought some new spacers might be in order. After reassembling everything I torqued the wheel up to it's proper spec value (100nM) - I don't usually tighten the axle nut up to the full spec in case it's neccessary to tighten the chain away from home -  and then found that there was no real discernible play in the wheel BUT the there was then a little bit of bearing 'rumble'.

So now I'm thinking maybe there is a bearing issue. I'll replace them to rule it out as it's not too expensive to do. Not sure what bearings to get though - just looking on ebay and the sellers there only seem to go up to 2014 models. Not sure if 2017 models are same - I assume they would be.

Was at the dealers today from where I purchased the bike and asked about 30K service cost as well as discussing the vibration issue and the intermittent c65 engine fault. Service cost would be not far south of £500! So, will try to eliminate this vibe issue first and then probably attack the service (valve clearance checks) myself.

[pichulec]

Sounds like clutch chudder.

[Jeff in Wales]

Hi pichulec,

Always possible I suppose. Thought that clutch chudder was a problem that generally only affected 1000's rather than 650's.

How could I do a 'definite diagnosis' of clutch chudder (not had any previous experience of this)?

[Gassoon]

Sharealike says:

Main tell tale of this is as you ride. Have you a shudder or vibration as you ride through 3 to 4 k rpm. It's a band about 500 rpm wide and there in all gears and throttle openings. Owners tend to find themselves riding round this area without realising, yet it's quite a sweet spot of the engine when they are right.

Another tell tale as you ride at low speeds such as in traffic is a clack, clack, clack as you go from drive to overun.

If you have the vibration there is a test that's a good indicator if the damper is past it's best. Find the rough area in the rpm range (usually 3300-3700) so you can consistently duplicate the vibration as you ride. You might find a long gradual uphill helps hold it in the zone. Once you've found it, now ride through it and as you do, pull in the clutch just a hair as you pass through the offending range and see what happens. Not enough to allow it to slip, but just about to.

If the shudder disappears, you likely have the infamous clutch shudder. If it does not disappear, there may be other issues, like throttle body synchronization, throttle position sensor adjustment or lean FI issues.

He fixes them. I think you are right, mostly 1000's suffer. See Sharealike's section HERE

I would still bet on engine mounts or bearings though! (checked the cush bearings and rubbers btw?)

[Brockett]

I don't think there is a "fix" for the 650 clutch.

[graingerblaze]

I had a similar problem recently, turned out to be an old chain that had tight spots.

The chain was clean and turned over nicely when the bike was on it's centre stand. The bike was also smooth at speed if I pulled the clutch in, so initially I ruled out the chain thinking it was something more serious. However as soon as load was applied, the tight spots would make the chain lumpy and cause awful vibrations.

New chain and sprockets and the bike is lovely again, might be worth a try. If you degrease and scrub the chain, before applying any grease take the bike for a little ride and see if any better.