2015 650XT blowing ignition fuse - Wiring diagram & suggestions wanted

[MotoPG]

Issue
10amp ignition fuse blows when power is on and killswitch is disengaged, often blows insantly, never get as far as the starter motor coming into action. No visible short connections found.

Long story
Riding home from work on Thursday my AL5 650XT cut out. I coasted into the next turning and began investigating. My 10amp ignition fuse had blown and all others were intact. So I put the spare 10amp fuse in from the fuxebox housing, turned the bike one, seemed fine, then pulled the clutch in and hit the ignition and nothing happened at all, no starter motor attempt. Checked the replaced fuse and that had now blown. Thought it must have blown without me realising before I even tried to start the motor, which I didn't expect. So I got the spare spare 10amp fuse out my backpack and put that in place, with the ingtion off and killswitch engaged. Then watching and listening for the fuse blowing (over busy traffic), I turned the key and the fuse remained intact so I disengaged the killswitch, still fine, them as I was about to try and start the engine but before doing so, the fuse went again.

Out of fuses I got an AA recovery organised and started frmoving fairings looking for a short. couldn't find anything dodgy within site. Almost two hours later the AA arrives, a young bloke whos been with them less than a month and was happy to tell me that he had no previous experience with motorbikes. I explained the situation and what I'd done so far. He then checked everything I had checked, insualted a couple of tiny wires that were almost rubbing through against a frame fairing mount on the LHS. Lost for further ideas he put a new fuse in to look at when it blows again, this time it started like there was no issues! The AA man logged the job as complete and offered to follow me home the remaining several miles just to be sure. I wasn't very satisfied, sure there was still a fault that was just tempermental, probably hard to find and I would soon be broken down again.

I rode about 50m and the bike cut out again! We blew through nearly all his 10amp fuses trying various things. Weird that the ingition fuse wouldn't blow with the killswitch engaged but onced the killswitch was disengaged it could blow instantly, in a few moments, or not untill you go the start the engine but never lasting so long for the starter motor to kick in. AA man gave up and organised for a third party recovery vehicle to get the bike home. He said his AA van was capable of transporting the bike but he hadn't been shown how to use the equipment.

Help?
Today my Father and I have taken the fairings, petrol tank ,air box, etc. off to check any wires that could be shorting but we havn't found anything.

Firstly, can anyone provide me with a wiring diagram for this bike? I can't seem to find one online.

Has anyone had a similar experience and discovered a short connection that we may have missed?

If it's not a short connection, what else is it likely to be, or what are the next steps to take?

Any help would br greatly appreciated, thank in advance,

Pete.

[greywolf]

Do you have anything plugged into the auxiliary connector on the right side of the fairing? It also runs off the ignition fuse and can only handle a few extra amps before blowing.

[alibx11]

I'd start by checking the right hand switchgear wiring, both in the switch and further down the wiring in case it's rubbed against something.
I never use the kill switch, just turn the bike off with the ignition key.
Failing that check the main wiring loom just below and infront of the battery , it tends to rub through the frame and chaff the wiring. worth a look.

[MotoPG]

Greywolf, thanks for the suggestion, there is nothing plugged into that connector - in fact wasn't aware of it until you pointed it out. Any accessories are running off one of BigPie's auxiliary fuse boxes, which was temporarily disconnected to isolate that.
alibx11, I have looked at the wiring in those areas and can't see and damage. I'll check the switchgear wiring with a meter today.

It still feels like it must be a shorting wire to be so intermittent. If it's not in the kill switch it's something in the circuits after the kill switch.
The wiring diagrams available online all seem to be for earlier versions of the bike, but I'll try using them as a guide.

[TLPower]

If you have a multimeter, set it to ohmms (continuity), put one probe in the outlet side of the empty fuse holder (no fuse fitted) and the other probe to earth, either frame or battery. Move the wiring harness around, plugs etc, operate switches until you get a reading or the beep. This will save you umpteen fuses and possible damage to components.

[greywolf]

It can help to wire in a headlight bulb to replace the fuse. If the wiring is in a short condition, the bulb will light up whereas it will be dim to out if the wiring is okay. You can go around the loom wiggling and pushing to see if you can find an area that makes the bulb flicker.

The wiring between the old and new bikes are similar. I tried posting a Glee wiring diagram but the site software makes it too small to read.

[MotoPG]

I seem to have a direct short to ground on the orange input wire to fuses 4 and 5 , ignition and signal. From the wiring diagram that seems like it should be a switched live from the the ignition switch.

[greywolf]

Orange is the power input to the ignition fuse. A short there would burn out the main fuse. You need to look at the output wire from the ignition fuse, basically the O/Y wire. A short in it or any wire it connects to will burn out the ignition fuse.

[MotoPG]

I thought orange was the switched output and the Black/Red was the input.
Anyway, making some progress, the short dissapears when you pull the high beam fuse, or remove the RHS headlight bulb, so something on the RHS high beam wiring is shorting to ground.

[greywolf]

That's true for the ignition switch, but not the ignition fuse.

I don't see how the headlight circuit can be involved with burning the ignition fuse unless the yellow high beam wire has connected to the orange auxiliary connector wire, which comes off the orange/yellow wire at the fairing connector. If the right side high beam wire shorted to ground, it would burn out the high beam fuse, not the ignition fuse.

[MotoPG]

Yes, that was a wild goose chase. I was fooled by the H4 bulbs, which on my meter read as a short between any pair or terminals.
So ignoring that, from the output side of the ignition fuse to ground reads about 700ohms, and doesn't vary at all as we flex all the cables and connectors around the bike. I've got the airbox off, pulled the radiator forward, and removed pretty much all of the bodywork. Haven't found any chafed or pinched wires so far. I can't see how a faulty coil or solenoid could be intermittent, so wiring still seems the most likely culprit. I think we're at the stage of putting everything back together, making sure all cabling is routed well, and seeing what happens.
Thanks for the offeres of wiring diagrams via PM, have just seen those.

[Brockett]

Did you read this ?

http://www.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=16745.0