Bugger

[ProfG]

My headlight has blown It has failed. It is toast. It is not working so I am riding with side lights and DRLs. Bugger.

Positives: I was going to change it to a brighter one anyway which I'd already bought

negatives: It is a bitch to change. You have to take the whole front dash board off and then disconnect the friggin' cigarette lighter. I tried that over the weekend and could I disconnect it? Like eff 

I even asked the local Suzuki dealer and he did not know how to do it either (neither - which ever is the current correct word)

Positives: I will finally 'learn' how to change the damn thing

Negatives: I have never had a bulb blow on me (on the bike that is) I wonder whether it could be a fuse so need to check the wiring diagram to trace the wires and the relevant fuse.

Fun and games, that's all it is, fun and games 

[tallpaul]

Another drawback to the single dip beam idea too. At least on the old bike with twin headlights you would still have one working dip beam.

Sent using carrier pigeon...

[Brockett]

Fuses do not cause lights to blow. Rather it is the other way around.

[ProfG]

I probably did not make myself clear. Sorry for that. What I meant was whether it was the fuse that had blown and not the bulb.

Will check it in a few minutes although I don't have a multileter here at work but a visual inspection should do.


Update: Not the fuse. Must be the bulb.

Bugger 

[bosnjo]

I had my headlight badly adjusted from factory. So I had to readjust the height of the beam. The hard part was that adjusting it against the wall didn't work quite well as later on the road at night it was too low, then it was too high... Took me around 15 tries to get it right. But my point here was that I "trained" myself to remove the dash, make adjustment and put everything back on in just 10 minutes and it even included removing my side wind flaps. The only downside was I had to adjust the clock each time after. So, to change the bulb I guess I could do it now in 10 minutes.
Ah yes, I broke the plastic clip once. The Suzuki ones are unbelievably expensive. For the price of one I got the pack of 20 from China.

[Robotstar5]

If they're that difficult to access/change, is it worth fitting a "long life" bulb?, these have a 4 year guarantee....

http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/H7-Twenty20-Endurance-12V-55W-477-Halogen-Bulb.html

[ziggy]

I had to lower the high beam but never had to strip out the dash. I have had the dash out once when the dip bulb required changing.

[ProfG]

I have had the dash out once when the dip bulb required changing.

But my point here was that I "trained" myself to remove the dash, make adjustment and put everything back on in just 10 minutes and it even included removing my side wind flaps.

How? Again I tried to take the dash off and after over 45 minutes (but less than an hour), I finally gave up. The panel does NOT come off. It is connected to something that I cannot see or make out and there is no way I can slide my hand in there to feel what is holding it.

Maybe you could do us a video of how you disconnect the dash.

[ProfG]

I cannot even get the dash out this far 

[bosnjo]

OK, I understand your problem, so I'll try to get you through, step by step.
1) Take off the bolts on the bottom
2) Take off the clips on the top
3) Grab the dash from behind, putting your finger in one of the screen bracket holes
4) Pull, but just until you hear "pop" and stop there
5) Put your finger behind the dash, in other of the screen bracket holes
6) Pull, but just until you hear "pop" and stop there
7) Now, the dash still feels "connected"
8) Put your finger behind the ODO, through the opening on the dash you've made on the top by pulling
9) Push the ODO from behind, it's simple, it will pop out, it just has one pin on the rear inserted into rubber grommet
10) The dash is free, disconnect 2 connectors
11) First remove the rubber boot around large connector
12) Then there is the clip on the side of the connector that you need to press and disconnect it
13) Then small connector
14) You need to insert small screwdriver into the clip hole in order to disconnect that one
15) The dash is free now

I use two thick rubber washers on the pin behind my ODO because, by time, it gained some slack and started to shake. The idea came from my dealer and it works 100%. It feels like I have my ODO nailed into the dash now.

See if this helps and ask for more help if you need. I'd be glad to help.

[ProfG]

bosnjo

# 3 and 5. I assume you mean the actual wind screen and not the front screen of the dash. Am I right?

And thanks for the explanation. I will try it tomorrow as it is too cold in the garage now

[bosnjo]

Yes, I mean those holes where brackets of the windscreen come out just behind the dash. That's the only place you can put your fingers behind the dash.

[ProfG]

That just pops out the front plastic casing which I did not have a problem removing. I thought there was another clip or something that I had missed.

Still no joy. It is the same as the odo panel cannot be moved at all for me to access behind it to disconnect connectors. Again, the maximum that the front plastic odo frame that can be removed is the same as before with no access behind the odo.

I might have to take it to the dealers to see whether there is another clip somewhere on the Desert edition that is preventing the odo being released; possibly to do with some cabling 

[bosnjo]

No, there is no clip behind ODO.
It has a pin that is pushed into the rubber grommet. You have to pull hard to remove it, especially if it has never been removed and the rubber grommet is dried out.
You have to grab the ODO itself and pull towards you and it will go out. Just don't be afraid to do it.
Ah, and one more thing.
The ODO is attached to the dash, the part you are removing, on the bottom.
So, when you start pulling the ODO towards you, you are removing all the assembly together. Don't try to separate the ODO from the dash, they both come out together.
Looking at your photo, keep your fingers where they are. Now, with your other hand go behind ODO and start pulling all assembly together.

[ProfG]

Nope, does not want to budge no matter how hard I tried to pull it out. Eventually gave up when the skin on my fingers started cutting and the fingers started bleeding. I even tried to use something as a lever but it would not budge.

The bike is under 2 years old.

Thanks for your help anyway. Atleast I know it is not me that is doing something wrong. Problem is at the moment I don't have dipped lights so I am riding it with Park light and DRLs which are quite bright.