yellow plug of doom

[bigsimmo]

hi blokes,
              any one know the best way to replace the yellow plug of doom, the one behind the rad.
mine is so bad it needs to come out, I don't mean the closet either  .
is it a case of cut and solder or do you know of a better way chaps.

thanks to all
                  steve

[kwackboy]

If the loom connector is that bad remove it and connect the wires direct .
As I'm doing the shims over winter the radiator has to be removed so I shall be doing the same to all the block connectors  behind there .

[bigsimmo]

thank you sir,
                   are you soldering or crimping? and what are you going to use to water proof?
I have had to have mine apart 3 times now and just want to get rid, come on boys, ideas please...

[kwackboy]

My prefered method is solder and shrink wrap .

[Hachi]

I slid bicycle tube over each connector and tie wrapped them with a bit of Acf50 inside.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[Angustoyou]

I  prefer a crimped connection, with shrink wrap to protect it. solder can fatigue with vibration and snap, and of course must be redone if you ever have to disconnect the join. Either would do given it is not a wire that doesn't get flexed.  Buy a pack of right sized bullet connectors rather than Halford standard connectors for a tidy job. Pennies from eBay.

[bigsimmo]

 I think I will go with the bullets and shrink plus some acf 50, sounds good to me chaps.

thanks blokes

[Fat Rat]

Twisted wires with solder is a much better connection than a crimp.

[greywolf]

Soldered and crimped connections have strong and weak areas. Assuming proper work, the strong part of a soldered connection is conductivity over time and the weak part is brittleness leading to breakage in motion or vibration. Crimped connections are the reverse. Soldered connections need to be isolated from motion/vibration and physically well connected, not relying on the solder alone for joint strength. Crimped connections need to be protected from the elements that can cause corrosion.

[Fat Rat]

I disagree, an inline solder joint done properly should be as strong as the wire. A crimp connection (particularly on stranded cable) is liable to weaken over time, and as stated is susceptible to corrosion.

[greywolf]

I've had a wire break right where the solder wicking ended. It's a known problem and strictly controlled in aircraft manufacture.

[Fat Rat]

Thankfully Suzuki don't make Aeroplanes 

Of course the weight of a solder joint can put stress on the wire, I'm talking about a good inline solder join (in this case cutting out the yellow plug), if the wires are insulated and then taped to the loom to take any strain then that had to be the strongest method.

[kwackboy]

Sorry but a vstrom isn't an aircraft... I've soldered / shrink wrapped plenty of corroded connections in the past with no comebacks and I'm no master electrician.
Twisting the wires and soldering them is far stronger and Once covered in shrink wrap the connection is safely protected . 

[bigsimmo]

OMG, now I'm back to square one again
how about I do half and half no no no, I will splice and solder with some shrinky stuff, or will I


thanks blokes,
ps. crimps and irons at dawn

[tallpaul]

Part of my wiring OCD/fetish I use non-insulated crimp terminals that I crimp then solder. Belt and braces...

[greywolf]

I don't own a good crimping tool so I solder every connection. I now make sure to immobilize the wire next to every solder joint. I'm just aware of how joints can fail.

[bigsimmo]

g/w, I think that's the real problem, who owns a good crimping tool, mine is just your run of the mill £6.99 one.

[greywolf]

Quality crimping tools and parts are expensive. I never bought any because I like to solder. I'd solder for recreation if I wasn't so old and set in my ways. Everything on this model except the running gear was made of brass that I soldered together over 50 years ago.