Replacing brake pads: what do I need to know?

[Cam]

So, after doing the sprockets and chain a few weeks ago, my next job will be the brake pads. I have a 2012 Glee, and have ordered, after much searching in these hallowed topics, some EBC HH front and organic rear pads (and some extra Dot4 in case I need to drain/bleed/whatever).

I have the Haynes manual, but what else do I need to know? I know getting the pin out can be a bear — any tips? What else?

Thanks for any and all tips/advice/entertaining stories! :-)

[ukiboy]

If you've done C&S kit then replacing brake pads will be easy. The rear pads are simple, hardest part may be getting pin out like you say, they can seize if used year round in salty crappy road conditions.
Front pads - easy enough too.
When I change pads I use brake cleaner to give it all a good clean, especially the pistons. I use a toothbrush to get them nice and clean after spraying the brake cleaner copiously.
Then when they're clean you'll have to push the pistons back into the caliper body to create more room for the new (and thicker) pads.
I use the old pads to push the pistons back in.
Obviously don't operate brake lever or pedal with no pads in place as you'll push the pistons out...
Remember to 'pump' the brakes after you've fitted the new pads to re-pressurise the hydraulic system, very important before going for the first ride afterwards!
The haynes manual is quite good and clear in the instructions.
Enjoy!
Ps, search out 'Del Boy's Garage' on youtube - loads of 'how to' videos concerning bike maintenance. I recall a couple of those were great when describing brake maintenance jobs.

[Mark Shelley]

Worth buying a can of Plus Gas which is a superb penetrating fluid to help ease corroded fixings. It will last you years.
Check the level of brake fluid in the master cylinders before pushing pistons back in fully. If they have recently been topped up you might need to remove a little to give enough 'space' for the displaced fluid. I suggest you buy a small syringe for your tool kit to do this. Justmake sure you give it a good wash after use as the fluid will soften the rubber plunger if left.

[Cam]

Thanks for that, ukiboy. Nice overview.

Ps, search out 'Del Boy's Garage' on youtube - loads of 'how to' videos concerning bike maintenance. I recall a couple of those were great when describing brake maintenance jobs.

Indeed! He did one on replacing brake pads this week in fact.

[Mark Shelley]

Forgot to add......
Also worth buying a tub of red rubber grease to put on the 'posts' that the calipers slide in and out on as they adjust to pad wear. Again, it will last you years.
Once you remove the old pads you will see some chrome plated bits. On the front calipers it is a spring pad inside the caliper and on the rear it is a small removeable bearing surface on the caliper carrier onto which the 'floppy' end of the pads sit. It Is good practice to carefully remove these, taking care not to distort them, clean them, and most importantly clean the surfaces onto which they locate. If you use your bike all year you can get oxidation on the surface and this can cause the brakes to bind.

[joderest]

Just one little tip, when you push the pistons back to accommodate new pads, keep an eye on the fluid level in reservoir as if someone has topped up over max, you could end up pushing fluid out. Do front brakes one side at a time, and resettle new pads as you do one caliper.
Its an easy money saving job that anyone who can hold a spanner can do. Fit decent pads, EBC come to mind.

[Cam]

So, took a couple of hours to do the rear. I was taking my time and making sure I understood how it all hangs together. The bike was serviced about three months ago, and I think the brakes were stripped and lubbed up because the pin and bolt came away easy peasy.

The only tricky bit was putting the new pads back in. I think I was expecting them to snap into place while the caliper was pivoted up. In the end, I had to just sort of seat them, put the pin through, swivel the caliper down, then use a screwdriver to push them into place at the non-pin end. Once seated there, I could then get the bolt back in.

Hopefully everything is fine. We'll see next time I'm out.

[Cam]

Quick update: went out for an hour and all seems fine. Yay.

[bigpie]

Loads of life left on the old there, at least for a Yorkshireman

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[Cam]

Aye, once they were out, I realised I could probably have got a bit more out of them. I got new pads all round as I wanted to set them all back to 'full' together — I haven't changed them since buying the bike last October. Started with the rear brakes today as I figured they'd be a bit easier and, certainly, less deadly if I got it wrong.

[bigpie]

Well, at least you familiarised yourself with doing it before you needed to. Too early is better and cheaper than too late.

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