Author Topic: Starting problems (Read 8598 times)

PeterB · « **on:** December 31, 2015, 17:08:40 »

Hi All
Went for a ride out on Monday up to Welshpool and surrounding areas and having stopped throughout the day numerous times and having started the bike with no problems at all I arrived at Builth Wells little chef to stretch the legs, having decided to leave for home soon after I returned to the bike turned on the ignition to find it wouldn't turn over

The ignition all came on as normal, the bike was in neutral the kill switch off and the clutch pulled in, all I got was a clicking sound from the starter relay under the seat and no starter, I double checked everything still no joy,tried to jump start with 3 blokes pushing me, don't try this it doesn't work the compression is too high just locks the rear wheel no matter what gear your in. Eventually gave up and called the AA who arrived and again checked everything eventually put a jump pack on the battery and it fired up no problem, checked charging voltage 14.2 volts all good, ran it for a while and stopped it again only to be met with the same result, this time jumped it again left it running and rode it home with no issues at all. (Heated grips spots on etc)
Took the bike the next day to my local dealer having started it of the car battery and it is still there at this time waiting to find out what's wrong, my question is can a battery suddenly go down like that having started the bike so well all day?

MartinW · « **Reply #1 on:** December 31, 2015, 17:28:21 »

Yes it can and it did happen to me last September. Five or Six starts in an afternoon, then it was suddenly totally dead.

Hondaman · « **Reply #2 on:** December 31, 2015, 18:17:50 »

Isn't there a corrosion issue on the earth lead mounting point on the engine on these?

greywolf · « **Reply #3 on:** December 31, 2015, 19:50:11 »

There is an earth connection corrosion problem on the DL1000A, not the DL650A. The symptoms of the problem indicate a probable bad battery or bad battery connection. I just had to tighten the battery connections on my 650 when it wouldn't start but both ends of the large battery cables have to be clean and tight.

PeterB · « **Reply #4 on:** December 31, 2015, 21:15:10 »

That's a very valid point, and putting a jump pack on the positive of the battery and the negative on a good earth point started it no problem, interestingly if I put the negative straight to the neg on the battery this had no affect and wouldn't start the bike!!

greywolf · « **Reply #5 on:** December 31, 2015, 22:50:34 »

That would indicate a bad ground connection. Is it a 1000 or a 650?

porter · « **Reply #6 on:** January 01, 2016, 09:07:17 »

Same thing happened to my vee2. Rode all day, stopped for a late coffee and would not restart. Mine was the earth lead at the back of the engine. Sure it looked clean and OK but its a long bolt and the last inch was all white and furry. Removed and copper slipped it, OK now. Bought an earth lead from halfords for a fiver, connected to bracket at the rear of the fuel tank but just tucked the other end under the tool kit, easy to connect to negative if need be. Remove that bolt and clean it blokes

porter · « **Reply #7 on:** January 01, 2016, 09:18:00 »

If you remove the lefthand plastic heel plate by the gear change you can go in between the spocket cover and the frame as its awkward to remove the bolt completely from the back by the wheel. I used a flexible screw driver thing with a 8mm socket on end. Hope this helps. Happy and safe new year to all

zippy · « **Reply #8 on:** January 01, 2016, 11:01:45 »

hi blokes, intresting thread just a quick question would the fitting of a stainless bolt help matters as the stainless would be better than an zink plated steel bolt ??? not worried about the length as I can get all different sizes
cheers jason

pb · « **Reply #9 on:** January 01, 2016, 11:55:10 »

Hi
While I was living in France and still had my 650 Bandit , I decided to go for a bimble to see my Sister about 60 miles away. Started the bike at home no problem. By the time I'd had my coffee at my Sisters and was ready for the journey home ( about 1 hour after arriving) battery would not start the bike,

managed to bump start it , all goods, but as soon as I put the indicator on the engine died, insufficient juice to keep the engine running. It was a 2007 bike with the headlight permanently on. Got the bike home, new battery fitted all good again. So yes the battery can suddenly fail and sometimes it won't even hold enough charge to run the bike even when the alternator is working perfectly.

PeterB · « **Reply #10 on:** January 01, 2016, 13:52:06 »

Quote from: greywolf on December 31, 2015, 22:50:34

That would indicate a bad ground connection. Is it a 1000 or a 650?

HI its a 1000, but from the posts so far it would indicate a very poor earth

greywolf · « **Reply #11 on:** January 01, 2016, 17:04:05 »

Right. The 1000 has an earth corrosion problem that the 650 doesn't.

TrevorKent · « **Reply #12 on:** January 02, 2016, 19:46:00 »

It is the earth lead to the rear of the engine had my replaced under warranty after the same issues. The connection onto the engine corrodes as its not protected. Suggest you go back to dealer and insist they replace it as a known issue. Suzuki GB must be aware.

porter · « **Reply #13 on:** January 03, 2016, 09:45:49 »

In my case the end of the earth lead and bolt head were spotless at the back of the engine. It was the threaded end of the bolt that was the trouble, all white and furry in the last inch. that's why I'm sayin remove the bolt and lube it as mine looked fine but it was still a two hour wait for the AA man.

zippy · « **Reply #14 on:** January 03, 2016, 11:40:27 »

Quote from: zippy on January 01, 2016, 11:01:45

hi blokes, intresting thread just a quick question would the fitting of a stainless bolt help matters as the stainless would be better than an zink plated steel bolt ??? not worried about the length as I can get all different sizes
cheers jason

blokes will a stainless bolt help to stop the issue ???

greywolf · « **Reply #15 on:** January 03, 2016, 12:26:50 »

A stainless steel bolt could cause aluminium case corrosion instead of zinc plating corrosion. The problem is dissimilar metals galvanic corrosion. The less noble metal in an electrical connection exposed to air and especially water will tend to corrode. Dielectric grease, anti seize or low strength thread locker on the threads will seal out air and water, preventing corrosion. I believe Suzuki intends to move the earth connection to a dryer place too.

wurzel · « **Reply #16 on:** January 03, 2016, 13:48:31 »

I have fitted a rear wheel hugger, and liberal coated the earth bolt with ac50

porter · « **Reply #17 on:** January 03, 2016, 15:39:53 »

I done all that too! Mine is a dry weather bike, bolt and lead end r like new. It's where you can't see that counts, ie the threaded end of the bolt not the head. Take it out and clean it and get a secondary earth you can connect up quick if need be.

PeterB · « **Reply #18 on:** January 05, 2016, 22:43:21 »

Hi all
Got the bike back from the dealers and yes it was the dreaded earth connection causing the problem

just amazes me it can start all day without a hint of a problem then just stop, anyway all sorted.

porter · « **Reply #19 on:** January 06, 2016, 10:01:47 »

Glad you got it sorted. As I've said before I got a secondary earth lead from halfords for a fiver connected one end to the bracket that supports the rear of the fuel tank but just tucked other end under the so called tool kit, easy to connect up if I need to.