ABS issue

[Hotsnot]

Hello folks,

I've got a problem with my ABS on my 2012 (2011 model) DL650A....

I recently had to endure my battery failing, followed by battery replacement, followed by battery failing again. Troubleshooting came next. To make a long story short, I had to replace the stator and rectifier/regulator. It was a pain in the arse, but at least now the bike is going like a clock!

The problem is the ABS hasn't been the same since. When I'm travelling fast enough for the ABS to engage, and then put my foot on the brake, the ABS kicks in all right... The problem is the pumping ABS pumps into my foot, not onto the brake disk. I effectively loose the brake, right when I need it most!

Another time this happens is when decelerating fast.. As I initially put my foot on the brake, the pads engage with the disk, and the bike slows. As the bike continues to slow, foot still on the brake, I change down the gear and re-engage the engine (reopen clutch lever). As the engine re-engages, so does the ABS. The brake pedal is forced upwards, the brake disengages, and no matter how hard I try to force the pumping pedal back down, I can't get a decent "bite" on the brake.

I know it's dangerous, and I have to beware of it all the time I'm riding. So I obviously want to fix it soon. But I've no background of ABS issues.

Any takers on this one? Cheers!

[greywolf]

ABS depressurizes and re-pressurizes the fluid in the system. That will cause the levers to pulsate. The pressure will push the levers and the caliper pistons. The mistake some people make is to ease the pressure they put on the brakes levers because they think something is wrong. If your brakes work properly when ABS is not activated, your brakes are fine. You just need to understand the ABS pulsation is normal when ABS activates and keep applying pressure.

Part of what is going on though is you are overusing your rear brake. Use more front brake and less rear brake. When you apply the brakes, the weight shifts to the front. Some bikes can even lift the rear wheel on braking. The front gets more traction and the rear gets less so it's easy to break loose.

You also didn't sync your downshift well, causing the rear tyre to break loose and activate the ABS. Even letting the clutch lever out slower will help with that.

[Jacko]

Yeah, you describe exactly what abs does when activating correctly. It's a little disconcerting at first, I didn't like the feeling of loss of brake power but I got used to it. ABS actually saved my arse from a definite shunt in Italy last month, I was in a city following the satnav when a stationary truck appeared in front of me, there would have been no good outcome without the abs, I'd have either locked up and gone down or hit the truck. I panicked and just yanked the lever back, ABS calmly saved the day.

[Oop North John]

Sounds to me like the ABS is working on the rear brake.

I try to lock the rear wheel when you I don't need to brake to see what it's like, and then I can recognise what is happening when I'm asking too much from the tyres grip vs deceleration requested. If you think your bike isn't right then you need someone who does know what is right / wrong to test it, and / or you have a ride on a similar bike to see if it's the same as yours.

[bigpie]

The rear brake doesn't do a great deal to decelerate you at speed, as said. When I first got my bike with abs I went to an empty car park and activated it purposely so I knew what to expect and to not let off when the pulsing started.

In normal day to day riding you shouldn't be activating the ABS, it is there to work if something has hit the fan.

[endintears]

As I understand it the bikes not new to you so your familiar with the ABS and only noticed a problem since your electrical issues.
Sounds like the unregulated or unrectified voltage that fried your batteries has damaged the ABS control unit.
Hope I'm wrong.
Would be interesting to know the final outcome.

[mjc506]

Under the lhs panel underneath the saddle, there's a white plastic connector with a rubber cover, that you can get the diagnostics code for the abs with.

Initial checks: ABS fuses (actually test with a multimeter, not just a quick look), sensors and rings for damage/dirt... ABS light should illuminate when ignition is turned on, then extinguish when riding above ~3.1mph. If the LED never illuminates, there's a problem with the unit itself, or power supply to the abs unit. (Check fuses again). If the LED doesn't turn off, there's another electrical problem (sensors damaged? wiring damaged?). If the LED does turn off correctly, it's perhaps a fault in the abs unit, OR perhaps the abs is operating correctly, and your tyres are actually very slippy!!! (Check pressures etc)

To get the DTC from the abs, short the two connections in the diagnostic connector (should be orange and black/white?), switch the ignition on, and watch the abs LED on the dash. A steady slow on/off flashing indicates no stored codes. Faster flashing indicates stored codes. Each code is two digits, each digit separated by a 'pause' in the flashing. So "flash flash pause flash flash flash" would be 23. (This code doesn't actually exist)

25 - Wheel speed sensor related
35 - ABS motor unit relate
41 - Front sensor signal related
42 - Front sensor open circuit (unplugged?)
44 - Rear sensor signal related
45 - Rear sensor open circuit
47 - Supply overvoltage
48 - Supply undervoltage
55 - ABS unit malfunction
61 - Solenoid malfunction

I would recommend finding a copy of the service manual. They are available on this site! This one should be OK to use. but let me know if not, I have one here I can email to you.

[greywolf]

I still think this is more likely a problem with the rider's unfamiliarity with the system than the system itself.

[mjc506]

I'd normally agree, but there is a definite change mentioned.

I've also given him the wrong link... This is the one you want, Hotsnot.

[MartinW]

I've corrected the original link above too - Just in case!
 

HotSnot - Your profile says one bike year and your question says another. Which one is it so mjc506 can point you to the right manuals.

[mjc506]

Thanks Martin!

[Hotsnot]

I still think this is more likely a problem with the rider's unfamiliarity with the system than the system itself.

That's it Greywolf! I take back all the good I said about you!!  

I'm riding 12-years, many different bikes, different makes, and different sizes. I'm very aware of mostly utilising the front brake at higher speeds, and almost exclusively rear brake only at low speeds. At higher speeds in an emergency, however, one may need to use both brakes.

I've been commuting on the V-Strom a year now, and never had any issue with the ABS, and it worked perfectly... Until.. I replaced the stator & rectifier/regulator a few weeks ago.. Since the recent replacements, although the electrical system is now fantastic(!), there's a definite change with the ABS system. Let me try explain a bit better..

At higher speeds...
When I put my foot on the rear brake, the pads engage the disk, and the bike begins to decelerate.
If I shift down a gear, the ABS engages. Immediately the foot brake is forced upward about 4". My heel is forced off the peg. And only then the 1" ABS pulse kicks in. The brake lever goes from ~40 degrees downward, to ~40 deg upward, and then starts pulsing. When this happens, no matter how hard I push on it, I can't even get the foot pedal to the horizontal position, and I get little-or-no deceleration.

Admittedly, since completing the electrical job, my clutch adjustment is a little tight. I'll loosen it up to see if it makes any difference.. But clutch adjustment is really just that... Adjustment. I seriously doubt if it will have any bearing on the issue in hand.

It's a 2011 model DL650A (that wasn't sold until 2012, when it was registered and placed on the road.) Profile updated to show the right bike.

Thanks mjc506, I'll perform those diagnostics and will let you know (unfortunately am away next week, so it'll be 2-weeks before I'll get around to it). I have the service manual. ABS light works correctly, and extinguishes appropriately. But now you mention it, something I did notice was the ABS light was usually on before I replaced the electrical equipment - but I had attributed this to the battery and system power being low.  Even when I had the worst of the electrical issues, perhaps there may not have been enough in the system to power the ABS, but when there was, the ABS always worked fine.

Sounds like the unregulated or unrectified voltage that fried your batteries has damaged the ABS control unit.
Hope I'm wrong.

Jeez, I hope you're wrong too. Admittedly, and reluctantly, it does sound plausible.

Maybe I should bite the bullet and drop Vanessa the V-Strom into the Suzuki garage while I'm away. I would rather stick needles in my eyes though!

Thanks again folks!

[greywolf]

Sorry. It's clear from that description something is wrong I've never heard of happening before. That range of pedal movement indicates a problem. It would be a good idea to remove the ABS valve fuse and ride without ABS until it's fixed.

[Hotsnot]

OK Greywolf, so will let you off this time,   hehe

Yes. Temporary disengaging of ABS sounds good. Where might I find this ABS valve fuse? I'm sure I can find it this evening in the manual, but I'm in work at present.. I'd really prefer to disengage the ABS for the ride home.. Might anyone have a pic/directions to the specific fuse?

Cheers

[Hondaman]

If its a glee there are 2 abs fuses. Funnily enough, they are mounted near the main fuse box & labelled abs ;)

[greywolf]

On both L1 and L2 models, there are two ABS fuses between the battery and the under seat tray. The smaller of the two is the best one to pull. Make sure to remove the fuse under the translucent cover. The one outside the cover is a spare. It's the top one in this picture.

[Hotsnot]

Thanks again Greywolf - mission accomplished.
Unfortunately none of my fuses are labelled.
I guess it's Suzuki garage for my bike next week  
Will repost when I know more....