Author Topic: DL650 won't Start (Read 11369 times)

spezzer · « **Reply #20 on:** June 03, 2015, 20:06:25 »

I'm going to order a new battery. Any recommendations for decent price and next day delivery?

bosnjo · « **Reply #21 on:** June 03, 2015, 20:37:02 »

Try to find ground connection to the engine (I don't know where it is on your bike), unbolt it, give it a good clean, then bolt it back on and try.

spezzer · « **Reply #22 on:** June 03, 2015, 21:10:29 »

it looks clean enough - see pic. it is a bitch to get to

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5H8TZ ... sp=sharing

spezzer · « **Reply #23 on:** June 03, 2015, 21:14:21 »

Battery on the way £25 next day from Tanya Batteries same manf/spec as before. If you are ordering from Tanya try using promo code FACEBOOK45 ;-)

iansoady · « **Reply #24 on:** June 04, 2015, 10:04:48 »

When you get it, put it on charge overnight otherwise it may never get to its full potential (sic).

Phil254 · « **Reply #25 on:** June 05, 2015, 08:03:02 »

there is a electrical connector under the clutch I found this had worked loose last week and bike would not start I think its a cut out switch for the clutch worth pulling it off and give it a good push back on

iansoady · « **Reply #26 on:** June 05, 2015, 10:28:44 »

I don't think you'd get the relay clicking in that case although if I'm wrong I'm sure Mr Wolf will put me straight

greywolf · « **Reply #27 on:** June 05, 2015, 11:28:52 »

Right. No switchy no clicky.

spezzer · « **Reply #28 on:** June 07, 2015, 20:11:43 »

That was disappointing - new battery fitted and not a jot of difference.

As before I can get it to turn the starter VERY slowly if I'm a bit sneaky with the clutch while sat on the bike giving it a little shove (with the ignition on). So:-

I have 2 good batteries
Circuit is tested and good down to the starter.
Started turns - albeit slowly.

Is it time to take the starter off and check the brushes?

spezzer · « **Reply #29 on:** June 07, 2015, 20:18:54 »

Quote from: "greywolf"

Right. No switchy no clicky.

agreed - I can remove that connector and no longer have a relay

Euroned · « **Reply #30 on:** June 07, 2015, 22:53:51 »

Similar to my problem, sticky starter motor.

Try tap the starter motor with a small wooden mallet, or handle end of a hammer! Took me a year to work that out!!!!

Neil

spezzer · « **Reply #31 on:** June 08, 2015, 19:52:53 »

Well the starter is off - had a little panic when it dripped oil!Is this normal??

I've connected up to a battery with the jump leads and think it is safe to say its going to be brushes. Sometimes it runs, sometimes it starts slow, sometimes it doesn't start but can get it going again after a few turns by hand.

As someone advised earlier - wear a glove when doing this as there will be sparks.

Now its time to dismantle!

spezzer · « **Reply #32 on:** June 08, 2015, 20:53:12 »

Quote from: "Euroned"

Similar to my problem, sticky starter motor.

Try tap the starter motor with a small wooden mallet, or handle end of a hammer! Took me a year to work that out!!!!

Neil

Yoikes - was hoping for something slightly less barney rubble

spezzer · « **Reply #33 on:** June 08, 2015, 20:57:31 »

So - a result - one of the brushes was seized in its guide - freed it up, added some grease and Hello presto, were back in business. Started first time.

Can you freeeekin believe it though - the oil cooler pipe has rusted through and that slight movement getting to the starter cracked it. there's rubber tube protecting it from the engine case that has clearly trapped moisture and the thing has rusted through - Nice work Suzuki

Nearly there!

spezzer · « **Reply #34 on:** June 08, 2015, 21:34:15 »

Couple more pics....

Heres something you don't want to see on the side of the road - fortunately it happened in my workshop!

On the plus side one of the brushes in the starter motor was just stuck in the guides and didn't need much to get it moving again.

Just a few footnotes:-

Removing the starter is fairly straightforward. There are 2 bolts and one 12v connector. Once those are off you need to release the sealed end from the housing. Its a bit tight and I used a piece of wood and tapped it with a hammer. If you can get a good grip on it you may be abel to pull it out. Is there a better method for this?

Watch out for the oil cooler pipe - if its rusty then its going to be fragile. I loosened the radiator which would have put a strain on the pipe so that was probably the straw the broke the preverbial camels back. Its rusty anyway so better happen in the workshop!

Also found a handy workshop guide online. Whatever you do don't pay for one!

cheers and thanks for your help.

greywolf · « **Reply #35 on:** June 08, 2015, 22:18:47 »

I think that's the third actual starter problem I've heard of. I think 90% of the corrosion issues I've seen have been from the UK. What do they put in the road salt? Maybe it's just because riders from other countries don't ride when salt is out. I'm not seeing any images.

iansoady · « **Reply #36 on:** June 09, 2015, 10:28:49 »

There have been all sorts of things tried including molasses(!) which left a very slippery deposit and AFAIK has been discontinued. But salt on its own is bad enough.

MartinW · « **Reply #37 on:** June 09, 2015, 10:35:58 »

Quote from: "greywolf"

I'm not seeing any images.

I can see them on my desktop, but not my laptop. Some sort of security/permissions problem.

MartinW · « **Reply #38 on:** June 09, 2015, 10:45:26 »

I have moved the photos on to Flickr, which should solve the problem.

Replaced the pictures in the post above.

spezzer · « **Reply #39 on:** June 09, 2015, 19:53:27 »