steering head bearings

[porter]

Hi all. As I wait for my brake line to arrive and after readin a few posts about head bearings I thought I'd grease mine. Removed top yoke OK, its a tight fit but possible but the steering stem top nuts I couldnot loosen off. I normally just hit the top one with a mallet and screw driver but no luck,  they are tight! Think I need the Suzuki tool, so don't try if you've not got it.

[greywolf]

Leave it alone. It's not worth the effort. The grease is only there to prevent rust. It just takes a coating. The bearings never move fast enough to require lubrication. It's nothing like the needs of a wheel bearing. You don't need to go in there unless the races are dimpled which will make moving the steering from lock to lock with the front wheel in the air feel notchy.

If you do need to replace the bearing, go with tapered rollers.

http://blacklabadventures.com/2012/02/2 ... t-upgrade/

Or for adjustment only.

http://blacklabadventures.com/2012/05/0 ... -bearings/

[porter]

Two off my last three bikes had no grease at all, in any bearing, none, and they where both Japanese (yamaha)  One bike never made it to 6000 miles before the bearings where shot! The other I saved just. in time. So I just wanted a look. I usually do the swingarm to but that's a special tool as well. I did get the rear link done which was pretty dry, hence the want to do the rest.

[grumps]

I can see Greywolf''s point about the need to keep water at bay but not needed for friction.

When I did the head bearing in my Diversion they were badly pitted even though there was grease there. Thinking about it I wonder whether ball race bearing get notchy because of the impacts on the steering that form the dents in the races.

I replaced the ball races with taper bearings but one (reputable) mechanic said not to do so as they need adjusting more that ball races. Who knows?

Anyway, job done and head is as smooth as a baby's whatsit.

[Laava]

If you do need to replace the bearing, go with tapered bearings/

According to TrevorKent they are tapered rollers in the V2. He had them checked out recently

[endintears]

Checked mine last year seeing as I was in there changing the fork springs.
Locknut undid OK using a drift, don't remember it being particularly tight, maybe get a mate to help, two hammers and drifts synchronised together.
Found mine to be OK for grease (even though the bike press write-ups insist Suzuki puts hardly any in at the factory) however were ready for adjusting up a bit.
But especially if you are having problems with that nut maybe, "if it ain't broke ......  

[porter]

I'll leave it to winter time, maybe have better luck once the tank is off r I can beg the tool off the dealer. In 30 years I've never seen one that tight, Suzuki certainly know how to use an air torque wrench!  My brake line has left america, I might get to ride it in a week r so, its been a long months wait

[Downunder]

According to TrevorKent they are tapered rollers in the V2. He had them checked out recently

Looked at steering stem pics in the Service Manual they are definitely showing ball bearings in the V2.

[greywolf]

[Laava]

Looked at steering stem pics in the Service Manual they are definitely showing ball bearings in the V2.

Thanks Downunder and Greywolf.
Poos! I am disappoint! How long do you think I can reasonably expect them to last before they start to affect my handling? On my K7 I changed the balls to tapered at about 50,000km which made a big difference. Only cos of the wear on the balls of course. Wished I had changed them earlier.