burnt out stator??

[DEF2001]

Just jump started the vstrom having been sat for two months from the wife's Honda jazz ( don't worry the engine wasn't running) as soon as I disconnected the jump leads the bike ran roughly and the gauges flickered on and off and kept resetting themselevs. I connected a multimeter across the battery and was only getting 7V. I'm assuming that some of the coils in the stator have burnt out. Am I right in this assumption before I start stripping down the bike.

[V-Strom3]

I have had a stator problem with a friends Honda varadero 125 took about a month to get it totally sorted, electrex world  near Reading were excellent for info and service, they have on there website a check procedure for getting to point to which is wrong https://www.dropbox.com/s/ucx8v7dvyh8g945/Troubleshooting-3P-PMG-%26-RR.pdf?dl=1. Hope thus helps.

Even though I bought the stator from wemoto  who were also excellent, it was not providing enough power.
I had to return the new stator and get the original on re-wound by a bloke in Marlborough can dig out details if required, who electrex world recommend.

[tallpaul]

There a lots of things that need checking first before you condemn the coils in the alti. First thing is to check that the battery is good, check that all the wiring connections related to the charging circuit are not corroded then have the regulator/ rectifier unit checked (not sure if they still call them that?!) to see if it is giving the required output. Hours of fun there. Best of luck!

[MartinW]

That's a useful attachment. Thanks for posting it  

[V-Strom3]

Helped me when I was trying to find out what was wrong. Wrote results at side of each section.

[Stromtrooper james]

I replace mine about a week ago had the same symptoms heres what I did.

got a new battery got it fully charged.
fitted it to the back put a multi meter on it.
rev the bike to 5k and it should read over 12.8V
mine didn't

sooo I go a gasket removed the side cover and looked and you can see if its burnt out as it will be black.

if its not your only transport (like me) id say just drop you oil take the side cover off and have a look.

save trying to learn how to be a sparky

just make sure you have a spare gasket to put the cover back on.

p.s my bikes running fine now    

[greywolf]

A 7V reading indicates a probable battery problem. Make sure the battery is working and charged before condemning the stator. A load test would be a good idea. Of course a burned out stator could be the cause of a bad battery.

[DEF2001]

Cheers everyone
Vstrom 3 that is some useful shit will try that out tomorrow and keep my fingers crossed. I do have a dodgey alarm installed so that will be my first port of call. The reason I think its the stator though is the battery seems to hold no charge what so ever but I only brought it last year. The bike runs fine when hooked up the the car battery but as soon as I disconnect it I get the 7 v reading. As soon as I switch the bike off that's it everything is completely dead so it could be the battery. If the battery was completely knackered surely once started the stator should produce more than 7 volts and the bike would run okay despite the condition of the battery

[greywolf]

A battery can have a shorted cell and act just like that with a good charging system.

[willbo]

I'm having this exact problem with my l10 wee.

 I was riding along a few days ago and my dials cut out. lost speed,  revs everything. then my bike died. I was riding in a 30mph zone. called the aa and they had a look. tested the battery and it worked fine and took a charge,  enough to get me home. but the bloke said I should look at the bikes charging system as it doesn't look like it's charging up the battery.

I've ordered a new battery trickle charger as my cousin has my old one so I'm going to charge up the battery and use my multimeter  after a ride to see if it's lost voltage

[V-Strom3]

There are plenty of checks to do to establish what's at fault.
Good luck with the search.

[bosnjo]

When I worked as a car mechanic, many years ago, we had a way to check if the problem was on battery side or on charging side. Start the engine, let it idle and then disconnect the battery. If engine dies, it means no power is being produced and it was using the battery. If engine stays running, the charging system is fine and the problem is with the battery.
I don't know if in these days this should still be valid test, as I left the job as a mechanic 15 years ago.

[greywolf]

No, No, No. Never disconnect the battery while a fuel injected engine is running. It can fry the ECU or damage the rectifier/regulator and does not insure the charging system was malfunctioning if the engine stops anyway.

http://www.troubleshooters.com/dont_dis ... attery.htm

[bosnjo]

Wow, thanks Greywolf. When I left the mechanic job, there were no EFI engines going through my hands.
Well, I guess you live and learn every day.
New lesson learned today.
Thanks again.

[willbo]

I have don't the voltage test people say. battery is fine, holds its charge and takes the trickle charger well. the bike though does not charge the battery when its used. I tried it before and after a spin and the voltage had reduced. I also checked using a multimeter if the battery charged while the bike was reving. nothing happened.

bike is now at the garage for them to look at  

[V-Strom3]

If you follow the wires coming out of the alternator cover it will come to a 3 pin plug.
With a voltmeter set to 250v AC take a reading from any 2 of the 3 wires and you should get at least 25v AC (at tickover) - moving one probe to the other wire should give the same reading , check all 3 wires.

With the rpm at 5000ish check the wires again and you should get 60-80v AC.

If anyone knows the correct figures please update this thread.

These are the figures ElectrexWorld said I should be getting on a Honda Varadero 125, so it should be a good basis for bigger bike.
If you get 2 results that are the same and the third is lower then that phase is the one that is the problem.

The varadero 125 had 0.3v AC on one wire even when probe changed to the other wire, 0.5v AC on one wire even when probe changed to the other wire, and 1.3v AC on one wire even when probe changed to the other wire.
So in this case all 3 phases were duff.

I got the stator re-wound and now at tickover I am getting more than 22v AC out of each of the 3 wires.
At the battery (voltmeter on to 20vDC) I'm now getting 13.6v DC which is putting a charge into the battery at tickover, before this the engine had to being doing more than 2000 rpm to start to give a charge.

Look here http://www.v-strom.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=91&t=25803 for a complete problem/troubleshooter (removed from earlier post)

[willbo]

many thanks for that :-)

garage just called too, the RR has gone on my wee. they ordering a new one fitting too for £150