Glee headlamp connectors

[crazyhorse]

Hi

After 32700 miles, and just returning from Corsica and Sardinia, I spotted that my headlamps (both) were not always on when the ignition was switched on.

A quick check, showed that there was something amiss under the front of the tank, where the wiring loom meets the headlight switch loom. So thinking the problem that the connector had come adrift, I took everything off to get to the little sucker.

Now, it looks fine and I have splashed in some ACF50 and all looks 'tickerty boo', but if you wiggle the loom in the connectors vicinity, the headlights go out, and on again if you keep wiggling.

So, as my inclination is to remove the connector, male and female, and put single connectors in there, help and suggestions are required.

Yours in anticipation.
Crazyhorse

[DEF2001]

I had a similar problem on my wee it gradually got worse until I was forced to deal with it. It will be the connector you identified needing a good clean up. I posted on the best way to do it type in headlight not working and you should find the post.

[greywolf]

By far the most common problem is the contacts on the start button switch on 2005 and later models. Following that, the connector on the back of the radiator's top shroud or a large connector in the left side of the fairing are the usual culprits. Adding headlight relays heads of the problem as the stock harness only carries enough current to run the relays.

[crazyhorse]

Hi

Thanks for the replies, and I am pretty positive the problem is in or around the connector.

Its a real pain to get the headlight switch, and its loom off the bike, as it is nigh impossible to get the connector end through the cable guide. I am going to have to dismantle the left side of front fairing to get to it.

I will check the wiring diagram, to see what wiring is involved, but the idea of putting relays in the system is the way I should go.

Thanks again.

Crazyhorse

[crazyhorse]

Hi

Update to findings so far, is that the Orange from the switch, to Yellow/Blue in the main harness, the connector in the connector block, is discoloured.

But, as much as I have cleaned it and the rest of the connectors, the lights flash on and off whilst wriggling the connector block.

I cannot see any wires that have suffered and am at a bit of a loss at the moment and taking a break from it, to have a think.

Any comments?

Crazyhorse

[Oop North John]

Problem might be a dodgy crimp, that will probably be hidden from view by the plug / socket body. To test, I'd try gently pulling / pushing on each lead, on each side of the connector, and see if that makes the lights flicker.

Or can you bridge the suspect connector with some wires of your own, then there shouldn't be any flickering. Using posi taps, at the right gauge with wiring is one way you could do it without too much evidence of what you've done if it became a warranty job. Positaps, better than scotchblocks IMO:

http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html

[greywolf]

What often happens is the connection overheats and the metal expands but doesn't quite return to the same dimension when cold. It can also loose its springiness. The discoloration is from heat. The connection usually is not bad because it is dirty but dirty because of hot/cold cycles causing arcing so cleaning doesn't fix it. Physically expanding the inner connector and/or squeezing the outer may do the trick temporarily but replacing or bypassing the connector is often needed. Install relays and the connector won't get hot any more.

[crazyhorse]

Hi Again

Thanks for all your thoughts, and at the moment the lights are behaving themselves.

I have cleaned and adjusted the connector, as far as I can see and get to, and with a zip tie, holding the thing together as a temp fix/repair, til I can get to it when the next service is attempted in a few weeks.

Greywolf, if you have already fitted relays for the headlamps, can you let me know where you placed them, and why. Also, where you spliced into the loom. Any guidance would be appreciated.

Regards
Crazyhorse

[greywolf]

I used the Eastern Beaver kit at http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Bike_ ... tml#h4dual

There is no splicing. The male connector plugs into one of the stock female connectors. The two female connectors in the kit plug into the headlights. I taped over all the loose connectors to avoid possible contact with the exposed metal. I got the kit with the bare ends to run off a fuse block but the one pictured connects to the battery and includes a fuse. I connected one relay on each side of the headlights with a plastic cable tie through the hole around the top of the fairing's metal frame. It's best to mount the relays wires down so water can't collect at the connections.

I later replaced the kit with HIDs that include a relay and only one is needed because high and low beam are on the same arc. Low current solenoids in the lamp bases move the arc in the high and low positions in the reflector housing.