Intermittent dash failure.

[Arfurloin]

Refused to pay £300 for oil, filter and plugs! for the 6000 service, so warranty voided.
The bars I fitted were Renthal Copies. They are anodised aluminium. Originals are steel. Wondering if there is an earth contact in handlebar switch gear. going to swap bars back.

[mjc506]

bullshit. Nothing in that service could affect the dash. You still have your warranty

[Jacko]

True. Stamp your feet, they're just trying it on.

[greywolf]

There is no earth contact in the bars. A change back is useless unless you accidentally fix a marginal connection in the process. Disconnecting and reconnecting the wiring will do as much.

[Arfurloin]

Cheers for the advice all. Will check all connectors again. If no joy I'll try the dealer .

[Kells]

Had similar problem, turned out water had become into the wiring loom behind the clocks, air hose used to clear the water away not been a problem since.

[Arfurloin]

Cleaned all connectors  with switch cleaner. Dismantled and reassembled handlebar switch gear. Seems to have worked.....for now. Only thing is, when ignition is switched on, can hear the fuel pump priming but clocks are showing nothing. Once started ( starting has never been a problem) the rev counter needle flicks round to the stop and LCD display sparks into life, showing normal display. Been a while but I think this used to happen as soon as ignition was switched on, before starting.

[Jacko]

It does yeah, wonder why it's stopped doing it.

[greywolf]

The vibration once the engine starts is likely making a poor connection finally make contact. With good connections, the clocks sweep as soon as the ignition switch is turned on.

[Arfurloin]

Sorted! Took the dash off. Not as easy as the manual would have you believe. ' press on circled areas and press the dash out'. Yeah, with a crow bar. Jesus. Struggle or wot. Once out pulled connector off, gave it a clean. Pushed it back on. Ignition on.....rev needle flicked round, display correct. At last. Thanks for all your helpful suggestions. Very pleased with this bike in general.May even resist new bike urges and keep it.

[greywolf]

Whenever I do something that causes a connector to be exposed, I take it apart and get some ACF50 on the contacts.

[Arfurloin]

Jesus. Electrics on these reminds me of 1970's Italian bikes. SHITE!
80mph in outside lane of motorway at night, both headlights go off.
Panicked, pulled over. Seat off to check fuses etc. nothing fixes it. Limp home.
I survived. Got home, researched problem. Turns out to be well known problem.
Connector under tank behind radiator. Only way to get to it is....all the plastic off. Tank off. Airbox off.
Then using the long slender fingers of a trained spider monkey, obtain access to the offending connector which, on inspection, looks like it's been recovered from the Titanic. Completely corroded.  This bike is 2 years old !!!!
Almost impossible to properly clean the connector as it's fixed to the plastic protector plate behind the radiator. Did best I could and put everything back together. My new motorcycle senses are tingling.
Oh. And display problem still ongoing. First and last Suzuki.

[greywolf]

The connector has a split barbed plastic pin that fits in a hole in the shroud. squeeze the pin together to close the split and the connector will lift out. Just about every bike will have connectors that can get wet. Applying AC50 to hold off corrosion is a good idea. So is installing headlight relays which every bike should have an few do.

[ipod]

Just commented on another thread about something similar.
I had problems reading display and it turned out to be water in the dash and sub-loom, got them changed under warranty.

[Arfurloin]

Took it to dealer. Loose wire in the loom under the seat. All fixed. Thanks for all your suggestions.