Power!! (electrics - greywolf?)

[geekay]

Hi - I'm just curious about this more than anything.

I understand that the bike needs to use less electrical power than the generator can produce, else the battery discharges over the ride - what how much power is that?

What does our generator produce and what does the standard (wee) model use just to run with its lights on? - and therefore how much surplus is left?

Just curious what accessories can be powered - I'm looking at the Keis heated body warmer - the K10 model is rated as "typical" (medium setting?) 18W

I also have the std Suzuki heated grips - how much power do they use? anyone know?

Finally - I know that greywolf has (or had on his wee) a "left light off switch" to knock one-lamp off - I guess this saves 55W which is great - but is it worth replacing some bulbs for LEDs? - example the sidelights are 5w5 items rated at 5w - but could be replaced with LED's at 0.5W - freeing up 9w for use (which is half the Keis jacket!) - or does it not work like this?

any thoughts?
g

[Oop North John]

I guess you might find your answer here:

http://www.stromtrooper.com/DL650-2012/ ... utput.html

[greywolf]

http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,11834.0.html

Your bike has a 400W output at 5000rpm. It's a bit lower at lower rpms. You have about 125W-150W to spare at running rpms. If you have enough heated gear to push the envelope, it's a good idea to mount a voltmeter and don't spend a lot of time at less than 12.6-12.8V. I had LEDs wherever possible on my K7 Wee but I wouldn't do it again. It was fun to play with but costly. That model and earlier only had a 375W output.

[VStromDL1000Rick]

I'm really sorry to jump on this thread but it's electrically guided and I'm in need of assistance as I'm not much in the electrical club and never have been.
I bought two of these
 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-DC-12V-3W- ... 4d11df722b

 and fitted them into my own housings and they are good but when I try to wire them to the bike the wire is getting red hot and I don't know what or why.

I see that there is extra power to be had for these sorts of things and that it should be easy from what others have said, so I grabbed these and ran a wire from positive through a switch to the lights, then the negative to the negative of the battery, they switch on and off and I thought thy would be OK but I'm sure I have done something that will end up damaging something else, could someone tell me in idiots terms the rig type of switch, where to get a switched power source from and if the lights I bought are OK.
I could also do with knowing if I have done wrong what it could have damaged in the process so I can look after anything that may have been scorched.

I have happily taken her apart and fitted alsorts so when it comes to this I'm feeling decidedly like a fool and I've let myself and the biking community down .

Please help .  

[greywolf]

Did you wire them red to positive and black to negative? One red should be connected to the other and then the resultant single red to one side of the switch. Another red from the other side of the switch goes to positive through a 2A inline fuse. One black should be connected to the other and the resultant single black to the battery negative. If you don't have heated grips or anything else connected to the heated grip connector, you can use that or any other orange wire with a green stripe to power the lights. It is already fused and you don't need a switch if it is okay for the lights to work with the ignition.

Edit: fuses are rated in amps.  

[geekay]

http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,11834.0.html

Your bike has a 400W output at 5000rpm. It's a bit lower at lower rpms. You have about 125W-150W to spare at running rpms. If you have enough heated gear to push the envelope, it's a good idea to mount a voltmeter and don't spend a lot of time at less than 12.6-12.8V. I had LEDs wherever possible on my K7 Wee but I wouldn't do it again. It was fun to play with but costly. That model and earlier only had a 375W output.

This is great - thank you

Why do you say you wouldn't do it again on the led front? And why costly?

Mine is an L0 model - so 400w @5000 rpm?

[VStromDL1000Rick]

That's good info and makes me think that I only need an inline fuse to put into the circuit, and I would like to put it so it turns on with the ignition on, do I not need a relay or anything else then ? Just simple attach as said it include the fuse eh, right well I will find a spare one at work somewhere and have a try tomorrow night after work. Cheers for that mate, really appreciated.

[greywolf]

The draw on a pair of 3W lights is low enough not to need a relay.

LEDs are more expensive than incandescents, even more so when I bought them. It was only the running and tail lights that are on steadily and the wattage savings isn't much.

[VStromDL1000Rick]

Right so I've gone online for a wattage to amps calculator and come to find I need to get somewhere round a 2 amp fuse, I'm guessing this is OK, besides this I was wondering what wire diameter I should be using. the wire I tried to use was a 16awg with about 20strands within. do I need to be upping my wire diameter and if so should I be going to something like 12 or 10 as these are quite large and are not nearly as thin as the wires already attached to the unit, they look more like 18awg to me.

I really want to get these on as much for safety as they look great too. made them from parts at work and the leds off web. If I ever get them fitted and on I will post pics. just getting the optical blokes at work to get me some knock down filter cut so they aren't quite so bright though as I think the housing is making them a lot brighter than is possibly legal.

anyways any info appreciated and the info already imparted ahs been used, so  

[greywolf]

Gad! I can't believe I was equating watts and amps in mind. Anyway, a 6W draw would be fine for a 2A fuse. The fuse is really to protect the wire and a 16ga wire could handle a 15A load and fuse. I would probably grab an 18ga wire and a 2A fuse but there is plenty of leeway in the application.

[VStromDL1000Rick]

Greywolf, you're a legend mate, thank you for sticking with me I appreciate it.
will post as soon as I have managed to fit the things again.
again thank you.

[vwee]

Have any one any clue on how much power the airman compact compressor puts out, and what size fuse I need to fit.getting a bit chilly now so will be fitting the wiring for my heated clothing.
the heated grip socket.I want to make us of it but not for grips.eastern beaver do a grip adapter is there anywhere in the uk I can get one.got to be cheaper and faster than getting it from japan,and jim reckons there is a  connector for powering accessories under the dash/fairing edge on the front right.thinking I cn use these for compressor on one and Sat Nav on the other,freeing up the battery for heated gear wiring loom.on the dl it wiill be gerbings gloves and biketek heated inner trousers.on my gsx650f which had  400watts the difference is it had no abs and only one headlight(I have had bikes with 6volt electrics with headlights this poor)and ran gloves trousers and jacket last winter without a problem.
the new style single controller that come with gerbings gloves need to be handled with care as the wiring is prone to breaking.I now have the new style twin controller which has thicker wires plus powerlet,s wireless controller which I know greywolf has one and any tips on set up, battery life(controller) it gets a tad cold at 4~5 0 clock in the mornings and how do you carry the wireless /wiring

[greywolf]

I have a Warm and Safe wired dual controller. Stick to low draw devices like GPS or phone on the aux connector in a Glee's right fairing. I would want a direct connection to the battery or a fuse block as compressors I've seen use a 10A fuse.