Author Topic: Clutch Drag DL1000  (Read 1042 times)

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Offline mikerbull1

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Clutch Drag DL1000
« on: August 13, 2013, 18:04:27 »
Any ideas on this one would be much appreciated. I seem to have developed quite a bit of clutch drag on my 2006 DL1000 to the extent that its very clunky going into and through the gears. I've had all the clutch plates out and all looks good and it seems to release OK. But the drag is quite bad and if you put it on the centre stand in first and pull the clutch in it is very difficult to stop the rear wheel spinning. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Offline hookie

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Re: Clutch Drag DL1000
« Reply #1 on: August 13, 2013, 21:52:01 »
I'd have a good look at the whole release mechanism right from the lever/master cylinder, hoses, slave cylinder and clutch push rod. Check for leaks on hoses and joints, although unlikely and then see if there's any evidence of leakage from the cylinders themselves. Cylinder leakage will need either a repair kit if available or complete new cylinders if not. If no evidence of leakage is found suggest replacing the fluid and thoroughly bleeding the system. If so still no cure have a look at the push rod behind the gearbox sprocket cover and make sure it's moving freely.

Offline Abercol

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Re: Clutch Drag DL1000
« Reply #2 on: August 14, 2013, 10:35:50 »
:text-goodpost:  What he said....

Offline hookie

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Re: Clutch Drag DL1000
« Reply #3 on: August 14, 2013, 12:22:45 »
Whilst on the subject of hydraulic systems, be it brake or clutch, it's worth mentioning  how important to flush out and replace the hydraulic fluid at regular intervals, preferably as specified in the service schedule as every 2 years.  This is something that is very often ignored and never looked at until a problem occurs and I suspect a lot of dealers don't do this when servicing vehicles. The reason that it should be done is that water builds up inside the system that apart from reducing it's efficiency, can also cause corrosion of metal components (mainly the steel pistons in used bike assemblies but also in steel cylinders used in cars as well) that will be much more costly to repair. So a little time spent doing this job every couple of years reduces the risk of potential clutch or brake problems and the considerable expense of new components. Have a go and you'll be surprised at the colour of the old fluid and sometimes what gunge comes out!

Offline Locky

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Re: Clutch Drag DL1000
« Reply #4 on: August 14, 2013, 22:29:44 »
+1 hookie , the water gets to the lowest level in whatever system , then starts attacking the piston , seals and cylinder bore . I renew my fluid every 2 years at the longest in all my vehicles .

Offline TimV

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Re: Clutch Drag DL1000
« Reply #5 on: August 14, 2013, 23:21:00 »
Just one other thought- some bike's clutches are quite sensitive to the engine oil, it's grade, condition and level, and I did think my Vee's slight clutch drag improved a fair bit after I changed the oil to fresh Silkolene. Might be worth considering too.

Offline Arto

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Re: Clutch Drag DL1000
« Reply #6 on: August 15, 2013, 22:13:17 »
Leaking slave cylinder caused a similar thing on my Vee, I think was caused by the chain oil and grit detritus that builds up in the vicinity of the gearbox sprocket, happily for me not an issue on the Wee :)
1977 Honda CB400F in Yellow. Completely Bog Standard.