A Bad Start...

[Berty5000]

Oi oiii! Alright lads.

I haven't been out on V much over the past six months for different reasons. A lot less miles than this time last year when I was using it daily for commuting.

I decided I ought to take her out for a spin about a month ago. Add some fuel, add air to the tyres. Make sure V is still alive. She lives in a concrete, sectional garage with a metal roof and I don't bother to keep the battery charged. To my delight, she started up immediately despite all the really cold weather we'd had over December and January, including snow.

Fast forward to yesterday and I had a hospital appointment to get to. Got my gear on, just about squeezing into the trousers. Get outside, turn the key, that funny noise happens, the rev needle did its full swing, the headlight came on, and I pressed the ignition. A sort of click sound... and nothing. Tried again. Click, othing. And again. And again. Then held the ignition down for about ten seconds,  multiple clicks, each followed by the funny noise that happens before the usual needle swing.

Oh shit...

I found it hard to believe that the battery had died since a month ago and it hasn't been as cold since I last took her out. Plus, the headlight was coming on. I checked the voltage and noticed it was at 10.2v. Lower than what I expect (usually 14.3v or so) although I've never actually checked it whilst stationary with the engine off as far as I recall.

Take the seat off. Connections all fine.

I do notice that the bike feels cold. It had gone down to about 4C over night, so not the worst. But then... I also noticed that the drip stop material on the underside of my garage roof was damp. I had cleaned my Oxford waterproof bag a couple of days earlier and hung it in the garage to dry, having hosed it down... could all the humidity in the garage combined with the cold have caused something to upset the bike?

In the time available, I moved the bike into the direct sunlight, for it was a sunny morning. I only had about ten mins though. I went inside and got my girlfriend's hair drier and even took to blow drying the bike's engine, ignition area and under the seat. Tried the ignition again. Still no good. Damn.

So ended up having to go on my geeky little bicycle instead. About an hour later I decided to see if V was working now. Same thing again. And again. Then I held the ignition button down for about 8 clicks and suddenly... she bursts into life! Took her out for a spin to get the oil flowing and blast away any moisture. Realised when I was doing 70 around the dual carriageway that I only had my joggers, trainers and a fleece on below the helmet... sensible brain kicked in and I  returned home.

Five hours later, turned her on no problem. No obvious emulsion in the oil at all this year. In addition to cleaning that bag, I may have given her a wash following the previous spin a month earlier so possibly was a moisture issue from that as well.

Thoughts on what happened? 2018 with no previous issues.

[Rixington43]

A good battery should read 12 to 13V at rest, shouldn't drop much below 10V as you start the bike and then read more like 14.5 to 15V when running.
I would say check these readings after having the battery on charge and see what you get.
I had these symptoms from a battery that would show full charge on the charger but the voltage would plummit to nothing when I pressed the starter. This resulted in the clocks dying and the bike 'rebooting' so to speak.
Replacing the battery on mine stopped the lights out, needle sweep failure but I still got occasional click of death. That turned out to be a bad starter solenoid but I'd say check the battery and eliminate that first.

[nigel s]

As above,
Recently had the same with my CBR600RR, the battery would charge OK and hold to 12.6 volts but cranking amps would drop off a cliff when I tried to start it.
Fortunately RRs are easy to bump start
Even at 6 foot 4 I would not like to try that with my 650 alone.
Invest in a cheap volt meter, £15ish on flea bay, a good tool to have , not just for batteries, and get a smart charger ( sealed batteries need a smart charger , your car one will NOT do ) I use an Optimate. The on board volt meter is OK for checking the voltage while riding ( so you can notice changes ) but gives an inacurate reading of the battery with just the ignition on (not started) due to the draw of the lights and electrical system. This is where the cheap volt meter applied to the battery terminals comes in to check Rixingtons43s values given above Anything between 14v and 15.5 with the volt meter on the battery terminals with 4k revs ( assuming a good battery, trying to check with a tired battery will thow off the readings ). My 650 runs 14.1/14.2 while riding, dropping to 13.9  with heated grips/jacket/satnav using the onboard.But see above , it may be charging but not be able to crank ( deliver the amps needed ) due to the battery getting tired.
If you have no power in the garage at least remove the battery and take it inside if it is being laid up for more than say a few weeks and charge it there.

[Upt North]

I think the wash down, may have been an issue.
Leaving er out in the sun and warming er up probably helped.
If the battery had been flat it wouldn't have miraculously recharged itself.
Best advice I've got is be careful how you wash it, no jet wash and as little water as possible.
Good luck.
Upt.

[Joe Rocket]

I've had two batteries deteriorate because the bike was stored in a damp atmosphere, one had water sitting on top of the battery in the recess between the two posts caused by condensation. I now take them indoors and top up charge once a month.

Interestingly batteries used to be guaranteed for a year, then 9 months and now only 6 months. 

[Berty5000]

Thanks for the responses blokes, really appreciate it.

I've started the bike up several times since with no problem and went out on it this morning. I was getting 14.4v whilst riding (based on bike display), although I have one of those boom box things plugged in under the seat which connects to my cheapo spot lights. With the spot lights on I get 14.3v whilst riding. This has always been the case. I just checked now after a couple of hours and without the engine running, display says 11.3v - that's with headlamp on, not spotlights. Briefly dropped to 11.2v then back up. Hit the ignition, engine came on and it went to 12.1v and then 14 or so - no drop was displayed when hitting the ignition.

If I were to take the battery out now and charge it, would this do any good? I haven't done so all winter. In other words, if the battery has an issue would a charge help or is it too late to rescue it?

On the starter solenoid issue - could these be upset by a lot of damp and cold?

Just to add, I've noticed some nasty looking rust on the inside of the chain and I'm quite OCD about keeping the chain good. And I remember now that the last time I washed it after that winter run out, I did use a jet wash. I stood well back and didn't go over board, but still. I don't usually do this, but wonder if it did just get a bit too wet with not enough recent use. And I haven't done my ACF50 blitz this year. Is there an area behind the ignition I ought to focus on in light of the recent non start for getting some GT80 blasted in?

[Rixington43]

The solenoid contacts are sealed so, in theory, nothing can get in to upset them. They usually give up because arcing toasts the contacts and they don't make a good enough connection for the huge current needed for the starter, I would say that's unlikely on a bike of your vintage though.
Taking the battery off and giving it a good charge is never a bad idea. The voltage readings you need are really the ones you won't get from an on bike voltmeter though. Battery at rest with nothing turned on and then what the voltage drops to as the starter button is pressed and the starter motor is cranking. Those will give you the best idea of the batteries actual health but you would need a multi-meter for it.
You have proved your charging system is healthy though, which is good.

[Joe Rocket]

Perhaps most will agree with me here.....once you start to have a battery worry for the symptoms you initially posted then it's time to get a new one anyway. Like you I've gone down the 'good charge up' route only to find it dies a week later, if not sooner. I went through two batteries (guarantee replaced them both times) because I suspect they were old stock at my local bike shop. I prefer when they have to order one for me but then again who knows how long they've been sitting around elsewhere, they must have a shelf life? I don't think ordering online is a good idea for even more unknown reasons of origin and storage, plus the faff to get it replaced.

Another change point is I used to get a dry battery and add the acid supplied, all to instructions. It became a sealed battery like you'd pick up ready to go. They don't let me (you) do that anymore.

Bear in mind that a long lasting battery is quite rare. My OEM battery lasted five years but since then no other has gone more than two; I put that down far more to my occasional use of the bike against more regular/constant use when I first bought it. 

[nigel s]

I am with you Joe. I am a regular optimate user even though I use my bike a lot, the longest I had a battery last was on my Fazer 1000 (a good sized 14 ah), seven years ish, as I remember 
I see the first time a battery plays up for whatever reason as a warning it is time to think about getting a new one .
I have no actual proof , I am no electrician/ physicist , but I think the electrical system prefers a good battery for longevity/ reliability. Especially things like the starter and the ECU.
 This has been sort of confirmed with the CBR 600RR. Looking at the forum , after having replaced the battery ( 8 ah ) on it, lots of problems occur with them ,up to fried ecus/ power commanders , if the battery is less than perfect. I was also talking to Chris at CJ Balls and he said the fireblade of that era  was even more tempermental about it's battery, in the name of weight saving the litre bike used the same battery as the CB 125 
Ho Hum