speed sensor

[colin]

just in the process of fitting a new chain to my 2016. DL650.  what the feck is that speed sensor for that's pointing at the gearbox sprocket.
this is the first chain I have replaced on this bike. I've owned it from new done 19k miles on it. I thought the speedo was driven off the ABS ring.
manufacturers seem to make things as complicated as they can.

[kwackboy]

It does run off the abs sensor,  or should do...

Are you referring to the alen bolt and cap ..?

[Rixington43]

2016 was the last of the Gen 2s yes?
Would that not still be the front sprocket sensor with the speedo reading switching to the ABS sensor on the Gen 3 from 2017?
Is it this black sensor behind the front sprocket/clutch piston cover you're reffering to?
https://www.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;ts=1540087140;topic=31089.0;attach=4246;image
If so then yes that is the speedo sensor, plus side is it's better protected than the ABS sensor, downside is gearing changes knacker your speedo.

Not really a case of making it deliberately more complicated, more a case of just carrying over stuff from the previous gen(s) which didn't have ABS to begin with.

[kwackboy]

Ah yes , I couldn't remember which model it changed over. 

I found pictures of the front sprocket cover but forgot about the extra parts being hidden underneath 

Good find ..

[Valzdl650]

Is it an easy enough job to change chain on k5 DL650 it’s my next job I have a manual and also seen a couple
Of YouTube videos , is there anything I should look out for or pay more attention to, also do I have to get the chain tool or is it possible to do it by removing the back wheel

[Rixington43]

You'll definitely need a chain tool as the chain goes around the swingarm cross beam and behind the frame so can't be removed without being broken. A good chain tool will make the job much easier, the cheap ones aren't worth it.
You'll save load/wear on the breaking pin if you grind the flared rivet heads off. Generally advisable to replace sprockets at the same time, I think the rubber damped front sprockets are worth the tiny extra cost.
Just remember to crack the front sprocket nut loose first before you break the chain as you'll likely need to use the rear brake to hold the front sprocket whilst you undo the nut. On mine the front sprocket nut had been put on super tight and I needed a serious impact gun to remove it. They're supposed to be put on with Loctite as well. Not a difficult job really, just take your time with making the new chain and have some big breaker bars at the ready if an impact gun isn't to hand.

[Valzdl650]

Thanks man yes the chains I can get for 130€-160€ come with front and back sprockets and then I can buy the little washer for a 5€ I think I will look for the rubber one thou and will also buy some lock tight thanks mate 👍🏻

[Ianmc]

   Small tip…..remove and replace the front sprocket first without splitting the old chain and you will not risk over stressing the new chain when tightening the front sprocket securing nut.

[Robotstar5]

<snip> "They're supposed to be put on with Loctite as well" I never knew that, my own fault as I just used the manual to look up the tightening torque thinking the tab washer was good enough to lock the nut.

[Rixington43]

I may have crossed my wires here, the 1000 uses Loctite but it looks like the 650 uses a lock washer and a higher torque on the nut.
Apologies, first Wee/Vee mix up of the year 

[Rixington43]

I was curious so I checked section 3-16 of the DL650 K4 service manual in the downloads section, it does mention using threadlock on the front sprocket nut for the 650 as well.
I think this is because it's a patch nut from the factory so a small amount of threadlock needs applying if the sprocket nut is being re-used.
It mentions Thread Lock 1342 which is low strength so pink or blue in Loctite terms I believe.

The Vee mentions Thread Lock 1303 which is high strength hence the lack of lock washer and the lower tightening torque. I used Blue on the Vee last time with no issues but I was generous with it

[Valzdl650]

Thanks for all the messages !!!

[duck-strom]

I had to use a cordless torque wrench to loosen my front sprocket, it wouldn’t budge with a long breaker bar.

As my bike is the spoked wheel version, I parked it with the front wheel against a wall and sat on it with the rear brake applied while my chum used the torque wrench. We started on the lowest setting on the wrench but it didn’t budge until we got to 3rd setting, only using 2 second bursts of the wrench until it broke free.

I had read about the need for locktite, but had none available so used only the lower torque setting (115nm if I remember correctly) as was recommended by Greywolf on a thread somewhere on this forum, and a new lockwasher.

My thinking on the need for locktite was that it must be a bit of overkill, as surely when the bike is being ridden the drive shaft is only ever going to tighten up the sprocket nut? Can anyone on the forum with more knowledge advise on this?

[Rusty Nuts]

I suppose if splines are worn on shaft and/or sprocket, the overrun and engine braking could in theory contribute to a marginal loosening of the nut. And if the tab washer wasn't knocked down properly.... belt & braces? Maybe, but better than losing a sprocket and snarling the chain up.

[nigel s]

I used blue loctite and bent the tab washer over in two places  when I went to a 14t front,my torque wrench doesn't go high enough to use the spec setting so did it freehand.
Going to be replacing the c&s  soon so seems to have stayed put.

[mr_diver]

The Varadero just has an M10 bolt and captive washer... never had it come undone and there was no thread lock on it when I removed the original chain.

I did wrapp the threads in PTFE tape