Brake caliper overhaul

[plongy]

Hi blokes,
Me and the strom emerging from winter hibernation. First project is to replace the old rubber hoses on my 03 with braided to try to improve the performance. While I have the hoses off I guess it would be prudent to strip the calipers and clean them up. Never having seen onside a caliper before is this something a reasonably experienced home spanner could attempt Are there any pitfalls or is it worth paying a professional to do it?

[dogpuf]

I'll be interested on how you get on as I have the same job to do to my V-Strom

I have a set of Hel braided hoses and a set of Carbone Lorraine pads to fit. I'm a tad worried about the bleeding of the brakes as I've not replaced a set of pipes before.

If I'm just replacing pads I usually just clean up the pistons by squeezing them out to nearly their full extent then clean them with a rag and WD40. Then force them back in carefully with a lever and a block of wood checking on the fluid level in the reservoir. If you do this two or three times and the pistons come up clean I just fit the pads with copper slip on the backs of the pads and high melting point grease on the pins and leave it at that. If the calipers need stripping down a new seals fitted I leave it to a mechanic

Lee

[doebag]

Plongy.
I did the braking system on my K2 last year. If you are doing the hoses, then you may as well do the calipers. Then you should really do the master cylinder as well.
I got all the parts for everything from WEMOTO

VSTROM 02/03

If you are reasonably spanner educated, then you should have no problems.A very clean workbench [covered in newspaper or similar] is essential.
The pistons in the calipers may be a bit sticky to come out, try and pump them out using the brake lever with the pads out . If one moves more easily than the other, clamp the free one with a G clamp or similar and force the sticky one out first. Access to an airline will make your job easier as well.
Remember the calipers are soft alloy, be careful when you pick the seals out that you do not scratch the cylinder bores. If the pistons are dirty then a polish up with autosol or brasso will do the trick. Make sure eveything is rinsed clean before reassembly. I use methylated spirit, or use brake cleaner or lots of brake fluid. The groove the seal sits in will most likely have crud in it, use a plastic or wooden stick to clean the gunge out. I use a nylon brush in a dremel tool to do mine, but be careful the chuck does not touch the alloy caliper.
To do the master cylinder is similar, but not as dirty. You will need a pair of long reach circlip pliers to get the piston and seals out of the master cylinder.
The new hoses will be fairly easy to fit. Do not tighten anything up tight until you are sure they are lying correctly and do not collide with bodywork on full lock.
Bleeding a completely empty system can be VERY FRUSTRATING  :damn:
There are various dodges to overcome this. Raising the calipers above the master cylinder can help, back bleeding by forcing the fluid up the system from a syringe via a bleed nipple, or even removing the complete tightened up system from the bike and bleeding it on the workbench with the calipers higher than the master cylinder.
Do not expect to rush the job and use the bike that evening, be prepared to walk away for an hour or two and then come back when you have calmed down.
I did mine after 60,000 miles, and you will be suprised how much better the brakes feel after it.

[StromGeeza]

Really helpful info, thanks. I advise using a simple pressure bleeder, after having had too many wasted hours trying to change fluid/bleed brakes the old school way...

Plongy.
I did the braking system on my K2 last year. If you are doing the hoses, then you may as well do the calipers. Then you should really do the master cylinder as well.
I got all the parts for everything from WEMOTO

VSTROM 02/03

If you are reasonably spanner educated, then you should have no problems.A very clean workbench [covered in newspaper or similar] is essential.
The pistons in the calipers may be a bit sticky to come out, try and pump them out using the brake lever with the pads out . If one moves more easily than the other, clamp the free one with a G clamp or similar and force the sticky one out first. Access to an airline will make your job easier as well.
Remember the calipers are soft alloy, be careful when you pick the seals out that you do not scratch the cylinder bores. If the pistons are dirty then a polish up with autosol or brasso will do the trick. Make sure eveything is rinsed clean before reassembly. I use methylated spirit, or use brake cleaner or lots of brake fluid. The groove the seal sits in will most likely have crud in it, use a plastic or wooden stick to clean the gunge out. I use a nylon brush in a dremel tool to do mine, but be careful the chuck does not touch the alloy caliper.
To do the master cylinder is similar, but not as dirty. You will need a pair of long reach circlip pliers to get the piston and seals out of the master cylinder.
The new hoses will be fairly easy to fit. Do not tighten anything up tight until you are sure they are lying correctly and do not collide with bodywork on full lock.
Bleeding a completely empty system can be VERY FRUSTRATING  :damn:
There are various dodges to overcome this. Raising the calipers above the master cylinder can help, back bleeding by forcing the fluid up the system from a syringe via a bleed nipple, or even removing the complete tightened up system from the bike and bleeding it on the workbench with the calipers higher than the master cylinder.
Do not expect to rush the job and use the bike that evening, be prepared to walk away for an hour or two and then come back when you have calmed down.
I did mine after 60,000 miles, and you will be suprised how much better the brakes feel after it.