I just did the full system on my DL1000 and it's not super hard although patience is definitely your friend.
Only tips I'd go with are:
- From the looks of the pictures on the Fuel site, you'll be doing away with the exhaust connector gaskets which Suzuki fit in between the header pipes and the collector/link pipe. These should either slide off the header pipes or crumble into nothing dependant on age. Give the header pipe stubs a bit of a clean if there's any gasket residue left over as the new system will be slipping on metal to metal and you want a smooth interface if possible.
- Use a smear of exhaust assembly paste on the joints, everything will slide together more easily and the paste then fires to make a really good seal to prevent tiny leaks and subsequent corrosion welding of the connections. Ultra-high temperature silicone may be OK for the end can but it will burn to a crisp on the connections nearer the engine. It also goes gummy and messy if you ever need to remove things so the paste is a better bet in my experience.
- Assemble everything with fasteners finger tight at first so you can jiggle things a little to get the best seating of all connections.
- You should be fine doing the job solo but an extra pair of hands can be helpful to hold the link pipes in place whilst you connect the end can.
- An OTT luxury but my system was on the bike second hand and the exhaust clamps supplied by the manufacturer were stainless bands but standard bolts (W2) and the bolts had corroded fairly badly given where they are on the bike. I replaced all the clamps on my system with fully stainless ones (W4). It cost a few quid extra but I know I shouldn't have one fail or seize in a really awkward position in future.
- If for any reason you need to detach the springs (you shouldn't need to) then be prepared to lose a finger, an eye, hell maybe even a leg
Good luck, get the kettle on and enjoy the wrenching time
