DL1000A L5 brake fluid change - tips?

[Megashorts]

I do like following the manual when I do stuff but sometimes its just not worth the effort. My 1000 has been dealer serviced up to now. It was expensive for me bought new, pampered and I thought a FSH would help it. In the past I've always serviced my own bikes and currently do my other bike quite happily. Looking in the manual at the brake fluid change for the rear it involves taking off the side panel, pannier mount, carrier and in my case that would be top box fittings. Putting it back involves thread lock, sequenced tightening and a lot pointless work. The alternative is just to undo one bolt and temporarily replace it with a longer one plus spacer to access the reservoir screws!

On the other hand there is no mention in the factory manual of activating or doing anything with the ABS after changing the fluid.

[bosnjo]

I've already changed the brake fluid on both my '14 DL1000 and '18 DL1000, few times.
First, to change fluid, if you know how to do it, it's straight forward. The only difference is that you'll have to bleed it few times after change as some bubbles will be there. I guess it's because of ABS pump. Not a big deal. 2-3 times, after 2-300 miles of using the bike.
As for the rear, on both bikes I simply removed the screw for rear reservoir. No other screw needed as the reservoir stayed upwards so it was easy to add fresh fluid. After the change was done, put the cover on and screw it back into it's bracket. As easy as that.
I always do it with the bike on side stand.

[Megashorts]

My other bike doesn't have ABS so a fluid change is straight forward.

I only suggested the longer bolt to keep the reservoir steady. The hose its mounted on seems quite flexible, probably as its quite hot here :-)

I shall look out for the bubbles!

[bosnjo]

Here in south of Portugal is much warmer then where you live and the hose doesn't flex. The last time I did fluid change was in September last year and the temperature was well over 40ºC. The reservoir stayed upwards, no problem.

[porter]

As Bosnjo says I just remove the screw for the rear reservoir, hold it tight and remove the cap, pull it away from the bike and top it up, the hose supports it just fine.
  Just bleed the brake as you normally would after that, not had and trouble so far with air bubbles trapped in the system.

[Megashorts]

I just found it funny that the factory manual went to great lengths to do it a completely pointless way. Unless of course you are charging someone that is! I took an engine out of a Suzuki 400 years ago as the book said you had to for cylinder head removal. They lied!

[bosnjo]

Suzuki is sometimes strange with their manuals. For example, back in 2015 I purchased Suzuki LED indicators. They came with manuals and one extra plug. What they want you to do is remove tank and replace the plug under it by removing all pins from original plug and putting them into the new plug and then reconnecting. I looked at it and couldn't believe. I  mean, new plug is the same quality as old one. It's just piece of plastic, the pins to use were original from the bike. If I can remember, the colour was different and that's it. I just couldn't understand why they wanted me to do that. Of course, I didn't do it. I just replaced the indicators and relay and everything was working fine. Then I moved them to my '18 model and they are still working fine. Go figure...

[Megashorts]

I did the job this morning. No issues, everything nice and firm. My old fluid was so clean it was hard to tell when the new stuff was coming through. I did support the rear reservoir even though it was upright unbolted. Protection from me! Clutch went OK too as per the manual.

[Rusty Nuts]

 
Sounds a lot less faff than the manual version. No battling steelton cheese screws!

[bosnjo]

When I replaced mine in 2 years interval, front and clutch had very clean old fluid but the rear not that much.