I followed advice on the forum and went for the Touring model, which is the exact same size as the stock grip and they did not require cutting.
Firstly, I took off both Bar end by undoing the Screw about 6-8 turns, then pulled them out. Don’t over loosen them or they’ll come apart in the handlebar. You want them to come out as a unit.
As a precaution I photographed the distance left either side of the original handgrips whilst they were still in place, as a guild to the exact position of the new grip.
I then used a sharp Stanley knife and cut down the full length of the original hand grips and peeled them away. Very easy to do. The left hand bar end was left with glue on. I used a pair of rubber backed gloves to rub the glue off. It came off easily and quickly, leaving a shinny clean bar.
The throttle grip had no glue on it, relying on a series of ridges and a lip at either end of the plastic throttle sleeve. These have to be removed. I started by using a Stanley knife to gentle cut down as much or the ridges as possible. I then used a multitool sanding disk to sand it all down including the out lip which is the small one. Obviously if you haven’t got a multitool, do it by hand. The large inner lip causes problems, its quite thick and sticks up quite high. Some have left this on and butted the new grips up to it, but it will leave a big gap. Again, I used a multitool with a small blade to cot it out, then sanded it. Unfortunately, you have to sand the plastic sleeve down sufficiently to dry fit the new grip onto it. You can’t bang and hammer it on or you risk damaging the elements embodied in the grip. Sanding plastic never looks pretty as you can see in the pictures, but it achieves the desired result.
Then making sure your bike is well covered with cloths incase of drips, carefully, but quickly spread the glue and immediately push on the new grips, lining them up appropriately so they miss the brake/clutch lever during operation. Then leave them to set. Superglue dries quickly and you can continue to fit the rest of the heating kit, but DO NOT turn it on for 24 hours. Super glue takes 24 hours to cure hard and using the heat before then can cause it to fail.
Next I prepared the mounting bracket for the control module. I elongated the top mounting screw hole and then trimmed the bottom off the the bracket using a grinder. I didn’t have a vice to help here so did it by hand, so it looks a bit rough. I do intend to paint the plate black with Hammerite but in reality you aren’t going to see much of the plate. I then fixed it to the left hand clutch lever bracket using the original single screw. I think the control module looks well mounted there and is in a good position to use with your left hand.
I then ran the cable from the battery. Lots of guidance and advice about this. In reality it would be best to run it under the fuel tank, but that would add a lot of work. I ran it along the left hand side of the bike on the inside of the upper frame just below the tank. If you feel around on the backside of this you can feel an existing part of the wiring loon running along there. So I rolled it as far as I could. Then fiddling under the bike, I picked up the wiring loom again at the front of the tank and followed it carefully over the radiator and cable clipped it to the wiring loom running up the the handlebars.
I connected everything up using their very good weatherproof connectors. Unfortunately you are left with a good length of cables to tidy up and hide. Again, I’m not sure if they could be better hidden under the fuel tank at some stage, but for the time being I cable tied then all together at the bottom of the ignition barrel.
Job done, total time about 2 hours. Well pleased. Hope this helps others.
