Author Topic: Fork seal driver  (Read 1094 times)

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Offline Silverback

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Fork seal driver
« on: December 02, 2018, 13:30:45 »
I know alot of you have seen and thought of this method before but for those who haven't here's a cheap and very good way of driving home your new seals.
Rang the Dragons den  panel up straight away after thinking of this but got the same message on everyone's answer machine. I'm not in and for that reason I'm out.


Offline kwackboy

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Re: Fork seal driver
« Reply #1 on: December 02, 2018, 13:38:57 »
Great idea.    :thumb:
Chief trouble maker 🙂

Online UK_Vstrom650

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Re: Fork seal driver
« Reply #2 on: December 02, 2018, 13:51:04 »
You can also use electrical tape wrapped around the fork leg several times too. I found that easier than the plastic pipe tool I made (though that could be more down to my tool making skills).

Offline Silverback

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Re: Fork seal driver
« Reply #3 on: December 03, 2018, 18:52:22 »
The job took me 4 1/2 hours,that included drilling the 6mm bolts out that hold the mudguard on.
I Set the fork air gap at 143mm from top with fork compressed(and spring removed) with about 520ml of10w synthetic fork oil.
Must say the bike feels alot firmer at the front now,it doesn't dive under braking as it did before, also feels better damped over the bumps,mind you the oil that I drained out didn't look good.

Offline oslin

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Re: Fork seal driver
« Reply #4 on: December 09, 2018, 12:12:32 »
I  have been doing that for years and used that system on many makes of bikes and it works well.
Keith

Offline Silverback

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Re: Fork seal driver
« Reply #5 on: December 09, 2018, 19:56:46 »
For anyone with siezed mudguard bolts I found the best method was to drill a 4mm hole through the bolt first keeping it aligned to the centre of the bolt then use a 5mm before you re tap the thread to 6mm. The drill bit seems more likely to wander into the softer metal  if you start with a 5mm.