rear master cylinder bolts

[joderest]

Bugger.
Just started to think about upgrading brake lines, so decided to see if rear cylinder bolts would come out, yep, you guessed, solid, even tried cutting a slot in them and using inpact driver, would not budge.
So, unless someone has a word of wisdom, all I can see to do is drill the heads off, and then as the bolts will be stuck in the cylinder, replace a perfectly working item.
I suppose I could try drilling them out, but I have never really been successful at doing that, then will have to tap the tread, which means buying the right size tap. Bolts are no issue as have loads.

Any suggestions ?????

[ProfG]

I had to cut mine and order new ones. Make sure you grease them when putting them back on. Infact make sure you grease every single screw and bolt on your bike.

[joderest]

Thanks, but how did you get the remaining "stud" out of the cylinder ?
From what I can see, its the bolt that has "fused" with the thread in the cylinder, tried plus gas, and I have tried drifting the bolts out.

[joderest]

Yes, I always copperease any bolts I take out and put back.
well, just bought a master cylinder, which also comes with pipe, res, and rear caliper for the sum of £20, worst case is I will have to put new seals in it, ensured already that threads in the cylinder are good.
Next question, I want to remove the exhaust to remove swing arm and clean/grease bearings, are the bolts holding exhaust in the same "cheese" construction, or do they come out OK. Would dread to snap one of in the head.

[krisv]

Had to cut and drill it, including stud in the master cylinder. No other way I'm afraid.

[joderest]

Well, thought I would share this as new one on me.

Got the 2nd hand master cylinder, stripped it down today and ordered a rebuild kit, it will be fine.
However, the banjo bolt on the rear caliper is like I have never seen before, its got a bleed nipple in the top of it !!!!.

Any Thoughts anyone ?

[greywolf]

The master cylinder is usually the highest point in the system and likes to trap air bubbles. The usual cure is to tie it down overnight to let the air escape through the master cylinder bleed hole. Having a bleed nipple on the banjo bolt allows a nice quick, direct solution to trapped air on top.

[Chippy4467]

how did you get the remaining "stud" out of the cylinder

Don't drill in - cut the heads off.  Once you have cut the heads off cylinder can be removed & there should be sufficient bolt protruding to get a pair of mole grips on them - on the bench in a vice of course and give it plenty of WD 40 or similar overnight first.
I was lucky - got away with hex in an impact driver but 4 months of winter on and I struggled to get the top one out today even with plenty of copper-coat remaining on it.

Chippy

[joderest]

Thanks, only thing about cutting heads off is badly marking the shied, My plan is to drill the heads off, level with the shield, this will leave enough to have a go at getting the remains out. But, as I have said, I have another cylinder on standby, so one way or another, it will go all OK.