Clutch not disengaging??

[grumps]

I changed my front sprocket today. K7 650

In doing so I took the two bolts out of the clutch operating mechanism and tied it away as described in the manual.

On refitting I managed to break off the lower bolt in the thread but drilled it out and refitted using a nut and bolt. Later I'll retap the thread in the casing.

However, I now cannot get the operating mechanism to throw far enough to disengage the clutch. Even with no play in the cable the operating rod does not seem to be going in far enough to operate the clutch sufficiently.

I have adjusted the mechanism as per manual but still it won't disengage.

I can see that the mechanism is a spiral that pushes in as it turns, but it doesn't seem to push in enough.

The operating lever is about 90 deg to the cable as per pics in the manual

What am I missing???  Please??

[greywolf]

Did the spiral mechanism come apart? If so, you might have put it back together in the wrong position. Another possibility is you may have put #20 inboard of #17 instead of outboard and it was the other way around before. I did that once but there was enough adjustment to make it work. I've even seen pics of it that way in the manual.

[grumps]

I took the mechanism apart again and it seems to be OK now.

The part 20 is outboard of the mechanism body OK.

Part of my worry I think is that the oil is cold - not run today so is dragging the gearbox.

If I start the engine and engage first the back wheel turns but stops when I use the brake. Hard to stop by stopping the wheel by hand. On releasing the clutch it rotates again but does not stop when I pull in  the clutch until I brake again.

I think that's what I have been feeling rather than the clutch not disengaging.

Off back into the garage to adjust clutch one more time for luck!

Thanks for the reply

[grumps]

Thanks Greywolf (again!)

I reckon the oil drag was it. I am amazed at how I couldn't turn the back wheel in first with the clutch in. Way too much drag which I confused with the clutch not disengaging. Lesson learnt - what a plonker

Sat on the bike in the garage and started the engine. Into first and with rear brake on the clutch bites about 1/2 way out as usual. I have about 15mm free play on the lever end so I am hopeful all is sorted. It's way too wet to test ride tonight.

[greywolf]

Cold oil practically glues the clutch plates together. Everything you've mentioned in the follow up post is normal.

[grumps]

Should have thought a bit more! makes sense now you point it out

I was beating myself up about shearing the bottom bolt. It was a quick job to drill out and for the time being I have a bolt and nyloc nut in the place of the original bolt.

Off to buy a tap tomorrow but I think I may have to go up a size on the bolt. The temp fix will maybe  stay - it works!

Boy, was that sprocket nut tight. 145 Nm plus threadlock. Used some threadlock on replacement and bent over two tabs of the lockwasher just for good luck.

[V-Strom3]

Aldi have tap and die sets from last Thursday I think.

[grumps]

Thanks - I'll probably have to get some beer at the same time - shame

[greywolf]

Don't use a clicker torque wrench to remove a bolt. It can damage the wrench. The torque spec on the nut is excessive. Exactly the same nut is used on the Vee which has more power and no locking bent tab washer. The Vee's nut is spec'd at 115Nm and that's plenty. The bent tab washer is security enough so high strength thread locker is unnecessary. Medium strength is fine if you feel the need.

[grumps]

That's interesting about the clicker. Mine has a reversible drive shaft so you can (presumably) torque up a L/H thread.

The wrench goes up to 200Nm and it didn't click on undoing the nut. Hopefully no damage done

[greywolf]

You should be okay if the top rating of the tool was not exceeded. Still, they should only be used to tighten. Loosening a bolt, especially one with thread locker, can take much more force than the tightening spec called for. Breaker bars are the tools to be used for cracking stubborn fasteners loose.