Main beam on regardless of switch position

[awicks]

Following my dipped beam headlight issue last week, I took the bike to the garage on Saturday and they confirmed it was due to corroded contacts in the connector behind the radiator. They cleaned this out and the headlight was working fine.

Fast-forward to my commute this morning and I noticed that the main beam indicator coming on faintly without the switch being touched. As I continued to ride, the indicator became brighter and brighter. When I stopped I confirmed that the headlights are also on main beam. If I turn on the main beam using the switch or pass button then the indicator and lights do increase in brightness slightly (maybe from 80% brightness to 100%). Toggling the switch did not turn off the indicator or main beam. I tried disconnecting and reconnecting the light using the connectors in the rubber cover in the left-hand fairing, but this made no difference.

Any idea what might be the cause of this? I need to ride home from work on it this evening - is riding it in this state likely to cause any issues?

Thanks in advance,

Andy

[joderest]

I would suspect a "dodgy connection" or a "bridged connection". It could well be the hi/lo switch has failed.
If you paid a garage to sort out the problem, take it back and say they have caused another issue and get them to sort it out.

[joderest]

The only issue I can see to riding with main beam on is to other road users, you may well get flashed at all the time. (not by someone in a long rain coat by the way !!!!!)

[Fat Rat]

Maybe the dealer has used some conductive grease to 'seal' the connector they cleaned and this is causing a short?

[greywolf]

Maybe the dealer has used some conductive grease to 'seal' the connector they cleaned and this is causing a short?

That would match the symptoms precisely. Also, anybody who did that should be banned from the industry.

[Fat Rat]

I have my moments Pat 

[awicks]

When chatting with the mechanic at the garage on Saturday, he said that he had "sprayed in some acid to clean the contacts, washed that all off and then put in some white grease to stop it happening again" <-- this sounds like it could be the cause!

Maybe time to call the garage...

Andy

[greywolf]

Any grease used should be dielectric grease rather than conductive grease. I'm not saying conductive grease was necessarily used, but it would fit the symptoms.

[bigpie]

Something like ACF50 corrosion block grease? I had the tank off at the weekend and put a blob on the backs of the connectors. I couldn't get to the front screw to remove the airbox to get at them properly. Sounds like I could do with having another go and get some grease in there to prevent something like this.

[UK_Vstrom650]

When mine were knackered up,  I took them apart and poured ACF50 into the connectors  (every connector on the bike I could find) and put a big dollop of ACF50 Corrosion Block on the back of them for good measure. Corrosion Block is dielectric, though mechanic did say vaseline does the job too.

As your bike went in with a headlight issue I'd take it back to be re-fixed.

[awicks]

On my way home last night, once I was up to motorway speed the problem seems to have sorted itself out. I was riding along and the main beam indicator was fading in and out, before going out completely. I am able to turn on / off main beam and my dipped beam worked as normal and there was no repeat of the problem this morning.

I am going to keep an eye on it, and maybe when I get some time will take it apart to see if I can work out what is going on. I spoke with the garage yesterday afternoon and they did say I should take it back for them to have a look at if I wanted to.

Thanks again for all your help,

Andy