Author Topic: Leaking petrol  (Read 1671 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Attila2013

  • Member
  • ***
  • Joined: Jun 2013
  • Posts: 72
  • Bike: Jawa21 Pionyr50cc, DL 650 AK7 Touring
  • Location: Mitcham
Leaking petrol
« on: July 02, 2013, 15:47:16 »
Hi all. I need a bit of a help. Two weeks ago after I turned the engine on petrol was pouring from under the tank. Considerable amount.  Switched it off, it stopped. When ignition is on it's OK. Turned the engine on it happened again. After third attempt it was OK. I thought it was a one off problem. Unfortunately the petrol leak happened again. On Sunday evening it did it again. A bit less than last time. I could not see where it pouring from as my head is not mouse sized and did not fit inside the frame. After third attempt  and after the pump noise gone, it made like a hissing noise and it was fine. No idea why it is not all the time just sometimes. It is very strange. Any idea fellow Stromers? Many thnx..
DL650 AK7 Touring, Jawa21 Pionyr50cc<Jawa350-638TS<Yamaha XZ550<Honda C90<SiamotoBD 125<Suzuki GSF1200S Bandit<

Offline greywolf

  • Member
  • ***
  • Joined: Dec 2011
  • Posts: 5262
  • Location: Evanston IL USA
Re: Leaking petrol
« Reply #1 on: July 02, 2013, 16:11:04 »
The usual culprit is the short hose between the injectors. It's blue in the diagram. Replace it and the red clamps. Use only fuel injection rated clamps. Worm drive type jubilee clamps can't handle the pressure.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. 2012 DL650A outlasted me.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 (K2-L2) DL1000s. Veek=2014+ (L4+) DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 (K4-L1) DL650s. Glee = 2012+ (L2+) DL650s

Offline Attila2013

  • Member
  • ***
  • Joined: Jun 2013
  • Posts: 72
  • Bike: Jawa21 Pionyr50cc, DL 650 AK7 Touring
  • Location: Mitcham
Re: Leaking petrol
« Reply #2 on: July 02, 2013, 18:52:59 »
Dear "lexicon" greywolf. Many thnx for your post. I'll order what you mentioned.  :clap:
DL650 AK7 Touring, Jawa21 Pionyr50cc<Jawa350-638TS<Yamaha XZ550<Honda C90<SiamotoBD 125<Suzuki GSF1200S Bandit<

Offline Attila2013

  • Member
  • ***
  • Joined: Jun 2013
  • Posts: 72
  • Bike: Jawa21 Pionyr50cc, DL 650 AK7 Touring
  • Location: Mitcham
Re: Leaking petrol
« Reply #3 on: July 10, 2013, 06:44:30 »
Hi back.
Thanks for your reply about the petrol leak. Today I striped the fairing to check where it leaks from and you were right. took the tank off to find that I have to remove the air filter box to change the pipe. looked up the service manual and it looking straight forward. but is it??? how about the front throttle body clamp screw??? any other tricky bits??? oh and another thing. cannot found that fuel delivery pipe with red clamp for sale on the net. where can I order one from? help would be much appreciated.  :ty: Attila
DL650 AK7 Touring, Jawa21 Pionyr50cc<Jawa350-638TS<Yamaha XZ550<Honda C90<SiamotoBD 125<Suzuki GSF1200S Bandit<

Offline greywolf

  • Member
  • ***
  • Joined: Dec 2011
  • Posts: 5262
  • Location: Evanston IL USA
Re: Leaking petrol
« Reply #4 on: July 10, 2013, 12:33:36 »
The screw on the front throttle body clamp is usually accessible with a long screwdriver through the frame. If not, it may even be preferable to squeeze the rubber intake tube to remove the box around it. Many people have written it's easier to put the airbox back on with the intake tube in place. Warming the tube with a hair dryer may help to manipulate it.

Just get some 8mm or 5/16" fuel injection rated fuel hose and a pair of FI rated hose clamps from any auto parts store and cut the hose to length. Make sure to only get FI rated stuff as there is 43psi of pressure in the line. FI rated clamps do not look like standard jubilee clamps but look like this.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. 2012 DL650A outlasted me.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 (K2-L2) DL1000s. Veek=2014+ (L4+) DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 (K4-L1) DL650s. Glee = 2012+ (L2+) DL650s

Offline Attila2013

  • Member
  • ***
  • Joined: Jun 2013
  • Posts: 72
  • Bike: Jawa21 Pionyr50cc, DL 650 AK7 Touring
  • Location: Mitcham
Re: Leaking petrol
« Reply #5 on: July 15, 2013, 19:38:52 »
Just a little update.

It’s not too difficult to change the fuel delivery pipe between injectors at all. Here’s how I did it.
As usual I asked help from the forum. See above thread. But, just in case, I searched the web about how to strip the fairing. Found- dr vstrom video series-on YouTube. First I thought Dani Pedrosa is doing it for second income-it was I bit funny. I watched it five times to make sure I’ll not break anything on my bike. Bought fuel injection rated fuel pipe and same clamps. Advice-buy extra clamps, as you will see later ! Not all car parts shops have these pipes-check if its high pressure pipes-at Halfords their said it’s fine, but luckily a turned it over and checked. I bought 7.6mm ones from Euro Car Parts and clamps. 1m long pipe+4clamps=£14!!! Ouch. Expensive compare to local car parts dealer in Mitcham: foot long 5/16 pipe for £1. That’s bargain.
Tools out, deep breath, let’s start: Removed the screws on one side putting them in order as some of them are different. Remember the video where’s the hidden screw and that rubber “clamp” are. Took me about 25mins. Next is removing the tank. Easy, I think nothing difficult about it just prepare some cloth where you will put your tank before you start removing it.
Now, removing the air filter box: If you are not sure about the state of you air filter or its needs to changed, order one before you start anything. I got my phone ready to take some pictures when I noticed how many pipes and cables I have to disconnect. I started disconnecting on left side as there are longer pipes and I could reach them easily. To remove the last two pipes on the right side I had to use long nose pliers. Loosening the throttle body screws is sort of easy if you don’t make the mistake I’ve made. The back one is obvious, the front needs long screwdriver. Useful if it’s a one piece one not like mine was. You know that extended of three small extension sockets from my power driver set. It bowed a bit because of the length and it was a lot of fiddling involved until I find the screw head with it. When I started to pull up the box, luckily I had a last check if I left something left connected or not. Then I saw my mistake.  I loosened the wrong screw at the front. Because it so cramped in there I loosened the one which is under the throttle, that what I saw right away, not what is under the air box. Wrong screw was tightened, the right one was loosened. It slid up easily.
Now I found the bad boy. To remove it I used the long nose pliers again. Because it’s a short and thick pipe, it needed to be bended with a force. At the first look it was nothing wrong with it. I cut the 5/16 pipe to same length then I tried to slide the clamp on it. I couldn’t. This pipe was a tiny bit thicker then the 7.6mm ones from Euro Car Parts where I bought the clamps. So I had to use the 7.6mm pipe not what “greywolf” suggested 8mm one. Sorry mate. Now here is the part about buying extra clamps. When I tightened the second one, it shred the treads of the screw. Maybe I was too optimist or weak material, but it was not good. So the extra set of clamps came handy. What I noticed, I can still turn the pipe around even its tightened to full. I didn’t dare to tighten it more so I left it as it is.
Putting back the box is easy. I guided the front inlet hole to its place because I could see it through the intake hole. Not sure I used the proper terms, sorry.  The filter was changed recently so no drama there. Putting back hoses and cables was OK thnx for the pictures I’ve taken. Specially, after having trouble to slide back those fasteners on pipes, I noticed I left one cable coupler hanging around well hidden under the frame. Couldn’t find where it belongs to. Then I the picture helped. But how to slide it to its place without removing the box again? If you have kids lying around in your garage as I have all the time, you got the answer. My 6 years old done it for me, god bless him. Not him on the picture, he's the younger trouble.  After the tank vent back by itself, I mean very easy to put it back, the feared fairing assembly. blokes don’t trust the rumours. It took 15 minutes without any drama. I started with the blue one on one side, black under headlight, other side.  OK I had one glitch. I tightened this screw before I popped the black plastic to its place.  And it’s done. Now the feared first start. I couldn’t believe myself. I fixed it. No leak at all. (as I’m writing this 30miles past) It took me about 3 hours and £15. But what I gained is massive. Experience, a bit more knowledge about bikes and a big dose of satisfaction. I felt as I'm somebody . And not to mention I saved around £140.
My big advice is if you got small kids as I have, book them for a holiday when you are doing your thing around your bike.  But we love them aren’t we.

Thanks for reading my lines.
Attila
DL650 AK7 Touring, Jawa21 Pionyr50cc<Jawa350-638TS<Yamaha XZ550<Honda C90<SiamotoBD 125<Suzuki GSF1200S Bandit<

Offline Jacko

  • Member
  • ***
  • Joined: Sep 2012
  • Posts: 5803
  • Bike: DL650 L2
Re: Leaking petrol
« Reply #6 on: July 20, 2013, 08:13:30 »
I'm concerned that the pipe wasn't tight and could turn after you'd clamped it down. I would want it solid for high pressure fuel use.

Offline iansoady

  • Member
  • ***
  • Joined: Jun 2013
  • Posts: 489
Re: Leaking petrol
« Reply #7 on: July 20, 2013, 10:36:29 »
Nice pictures.

I use the type of clip that squeeze together and clip without a screw. They're a bit fiddly and you need to get exactly the right size but they work very well and hold injection pressure. I can't at the moment remember where I got them but they were original equipment on my Tiger.

Found them: Cobra clips available here: http://www.tom-parker.co.uk/products_su ... oups=4131A
Ian.
2005 DL650
1931 Sunbeam Model 10

Offline Hugo Magnus

  • Ride Coordinator
  • Member
  • ****
  • Joined: May 2013
  • Posts: 3318
  • Bike: DL650A L3, DR-Z400s Multistrada 1260ST
  • Location: Dorset
Re: Leaking petrol
« Reply #8 on: July 20, 2013, 12:46:43 »
The Cobra clips look very useful (I've not seen them before) But I would baulk at paying £81.16 for the pliers that go with them!
The interruptions ARE the journey  (Ted Simon)



Ride Coordinator

Offline iansoady

  • Member
  • ***
  • Joined: Jun 2013
  • Posts: 489
Re: Leaking petrol
« Reply #9 on: July 20, 2013, 14:43:11 »
Quote from: "Hugo Magnus"
The Cobra clips look very useful (I've not seen them before) But I would baulk at paying £81.16 for the pliers that go with them!

You don't need to. I use a pair of carpenter's pincers which work very well. End cutters would probably also do the job.
Ian.
2005 DL650
1931 Sunbeam Model 10