Author Topic: New Tyre - Rear wheel removal  (Read 2253 times)

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Offline paulo

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New Tyre - Rear wheel removal
« on: April 28, 2013, 11:23:03 »
Hi,
I need to remove the rear wheel on a 2012 650 to fit a new tyre. Do I need to completely remove the rear caliper, or is it only the mounting bolt nearest the rear of the caliper that needs removing, then swivel up on the sliding pin. If the caliper does have to come off, does the sliding pin have to be unscrewed, or does it slide out of the bracket? Do the chain adjuster screws have to be slackened off also? - The wheel has not been off before - any tips welcome - Cheers

Is it legal/OK to have an Annakee rear and Trailwing front

Offline matchless

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Re: New Tyre - Rear wheel removal
« Reply #1 on: April 28, 2013, 11:46:02 »
Running an Annakee rear with a Trailwing front on my bike with with no problems.
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Offline Fatbelly

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Re: New Tyre - Rear wheel removal
« Reply #2 on: April 28, 2013, 13:08:17 »
Owner's manual 6-46 Rear Wheel Removal is a good place to start.

Offline Strommer

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Re: New Tyre - Rear wheel removal
« Reply #3 on: April 28, 2013, 13:27:52 »
Just the two main mounting bolts, you will want to clean and grease up anyway.  Don't lose the pad spring - it tends to pop out.  You might be able to get away with one and swinging it up and out of the way - can't recall offhand though.

It's a peasy job.  Will be doing this tomorrow as part of a brake service as it happens.


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Offline paulo

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Re: New Tyre - Rear wheel removal
« Reply #4 on: April 30, 2013, 20:15:00 »
Thanks for all your help. I have a slight problem though. When I removed the rear brake caliper, the sliding pin rubber boot popped out from the caliper mounting bracket. If you imagine looking at the boot with the  end that fits into the mounting bracket to the left, there is a very narrow ring, then a fatter one, then a larger one. With the very narrow bit inserted, it just falls out, so I'm assuming that the next 'fatter' bit should fit into the bracket also? If so, is there a 'technique' to do it? - Cheers

Offline Strommer

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Re: New Tyre - Rear wheel removal
« Reply #5 on: May 01, 2013, 08:25:16 »
The rear section has a tube and the bolt that goes through that will be snug and hold fast.  The front bolt is only tight against the caliper - it floats in and out relative to the bike.

So, if you didn't have the very rear bolt in you would be able to pull the whole caliper out.

Always useful to have a look at the manual, I think it's page 7-59...http://www.v-strom.co.uk/downloads.htm


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Offline paulo

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Re: New Tyre - Rear wheel removal
« Reply #6 on: May 01, 2013, 22:25:47 »
Thanks, new tyre and wheel back in OK - Michelin say to use manufacturers recommended inflation pressures - therefore I've inflated it to 42psi - anyone disagree?

Offline Strommer

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Re: New Tyre - Rear wheel removal
« Reply #7 on: May 02, 2013, 07:49:45 »
Sounds high, though I don't have Anakees.  36r, 33f is always a good start.


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Offline greywolf

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Re: New Tyre - Rear wheel removal
« Reply #8 on: May 02, 2013, 13:40:53 »
Quote from: "paulo"
Thanks, new tyre and wheel back in OK - Michelin say to use manufacturers recommended inflation pressures - therefore I've inflated it to 42psi - anyone disagree?
That means the bike manufacturer's recommended pressure. It's on the sticker on the chain guard. The number on the tyre sidewall is a maximum, not a recommendation. Somewhere between the sticker and the sidewall is where I find what I like best.
Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. 2012 DL650A outlasted me.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 (K2-L2) DL1000s. Veek=2014+ (L4+) DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 (K4-L1) DL650s. Glee = 2012+ (L2+) DL650s

Offline Juvecu

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Re: New Tyre - Rear wheel removal
« Reply #9 on: May 02, 2013, 21:52:28 »
I don't even take the caliper off, just take the axle out, move the wheel forward, get the chain off and pull it out. The brake caliper bolts onto a mounting bracket that locates on the axle. I put the axle back in from the right side (caliper side) to make it easier, never had trouble with it doing it this way. Just don't touch the rear brake while the wheel isn't on the bike.

32psi front, 38psi rear is what I usually run for the Anakee 2. I bump the rear to 40psi if the good lady goes on the back.
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