new brake lines needed

[dxtans]

Hello,
A few weeks ago an issue started, I really had to pull in the front brake to engage it. The pads were getting close to being pretty worn , so got those replaced, replaced the brake fluid as well. Still had to pull in the front brake a way to engage it.

So thinking it must be the brake lines. Is this a diy job or 'book it in the local bike shop'. To be honest I do not know what type of brake lines to get , length. make ....etc.

I have had the V a little over two years  now from new. So pretty peed off I've got to replace the line at this early stage, it is not as if I am on the front brakes all time, still I do ride it all year round, so maybe weather related.

thanks
dxtans

[hookie]

The Vstroms use brake calipers with the hydraulic slave cylinders only on one side of the disc. The whole caliper slides on a pair of pins when you apply the brakes to equalise the force of the pads on both sides of the disc. You should be able to feel the calipers moving very slightly if you push them side to side with your hand. Over a period and especially if the bike has been used over the winter, the slider pins get tight and may even seize up causing the symptoms you describe. The pistons may also seize up which will cause similar problems. So before lashing out on new hoses it might be better to have a good look at the two slider pins and pistons in each caliper. This isn't a difficult job if you feel confident to have a go yourself. The Suzuki manual describes how to do it, what equipment and parts you will need. I have no idea what your dealer would charge. This job needs to be done at least once a year if the bike is used over the winter.

[mr_diver]

OK have noticed recently that I have had and issue with the front brake being a bit squishy, so am going up the the local stealers to get a master cylinder repair kit. Have tired bleeding, bleeding again and reverse bleeding, pushing the calipers in and pumping up the pressure again works for an hour or so.

have replaced one in the CX500 and it's a fiddly job, but as I have braided lines and HH pads and know it used to be rock hard when bike was newer, I'm thinking it need an overhaul.

maybe worth trying that also.

£20 for the kit and an hour to sort

or £60 for braided hoses?

though I'd buy the braided hoses again as they did make a difference for the feel, but unless there's any visible damage or bulges I'd doubt that it'd be an issue in 2 years.

I know I use the brakes allot, maybe not heavy but allot of stop start riding, so much break lever action so I think my master cyl seals have worn a bit, had my bike 2 years, and I'm the only one who's put any miles on the bike.

you can buy the pre made kits off the interweb. I have Goodridge ones I got off a member on here. good quality, but they are a little on the skimpy side length wise, I'd ask for the 1" longer ones for standard set up bars if I bought them again.

I strip the brakes every 3 months- complete caliper strip and clean and fresh fluid. but I'm doing 15k a year, ride every day and don't have a car, so the bike goes every where and never gets washed.

[ilkleyal]

Hello,
A few weeks ago an issue started, I really had to pull in the front brake to engage it. The pads were getting close to being pretty worn , so got those replaced, replaced the brake fluid as well. Still had to pull in the front brake a way to engage it.

So thinking it must be the brake lines. Is this a diy job or 'book it in the local bike shop'. To be honest I do not know what type of brake lines to get , length. make ....etc.

I have had the V a little over two years  now from new. So pretty peed off I've got to replace the line at this early stage, it is not as if I am on the front brakes all time, still I do ride it all year round, so maybe weather related.

thanks
dxtans

Not seen your bike but this is nothing to do with the lines (hoses)

Tell me, has the bike been on its side at all?

Al

[Strommer]

I find that a good strip and clean works wonders.  

The fronts (especially the left) seem prone to picking up grit under the flat spring thing... a simple removal, wipe, and refit is often all that's needed.  You don't even need to remove the pads.

[dxtans]

Hello,

OK cleaned brakes. Still got same issue.
So took it down to local bike shop, they say £300 to replace hose and stuff that needs replacing with that.
Hmm.. do not think so !

So can anyone one on here please help in guiding me what type of front brake hose I need please. I had a google on this, went to a few brake hose web sites, but still confused, probably because I have not done this before and will probably order the wrong one.

It is a 10 reg

Thanks
DT

[ilkleyal]

Hello,

OK cleaned brakes. Still got same issue.
So took it down to local bike shop, they say £300 to replace hose and stuff that needs replacing with that.
Hmm.. do not think so !

So can anyone one on here please help in guiding me what type of front brake hose I need please. I had a google on this, went to a few brake hose web sites, but still confused, probably because I have not done this before and will probably order the wrong one.

It is a 10 reg

Thanks
DT

Get a fellow strom owner to look at it. Its not your brake hose. If you have to pull a long way to make the brake do something then you are compressing air.

If your hoses were at fault and you were pulling a long way then you would see the hose physically grow in diameter.

Al

[hookie]

If you've stripped and cleaned the calipers (pistons, cylinders and and sliders), then you have ruled these out of the equation for the symptoms you've described. After having re-assembled everything and reconnected all the hoses, refilling and bleeding the system can be quite a lengthy business. Sometimes getting the oil to start flowing from the master cylinder can take quite a while and a lot or air can remain trapped even though you think it's all out. This will make the brakes feel very spongy as you are compressing the air when you pull the brake on. It may help to use a proper brake bleeding pipe on the bleed nipples, as these stop air being sucked back into the calipers when you release the lever. The other way to achieve this is the lightly tighten the nipples before releasing the brake lever. This may need to be done on both calipers several times and sometimes leaving some time in between to properly get all the air out. If all this still doesn't do the trick you might have to have a look at the master cylinder itself. If the bike is more than say 6 years old fitting new hoses will improve the braking, but only if everything else is working OK.

[Juvecu]

dxtrans, there really shouldn't be any problems with the hoses on a bike as new as yours. That stealership is taking you for a ride, so to speak, if they are suggesting anything expensive needs replacement. At the most you'd be looking at fresh seals and brake fluid and neither of these are expensive. See if you can find an independent bloke with a reputation for honesty that can just take a look at it. I suspect it only needs a good bleed to sort the problem (obviously I haven't 'looked' at it myself so I could be wrong.)

[dxtans]

OK , here is an update,.

had a good friend of my daughter come round whom is all things  motorbike mechanic,
Brake hoses need replacing. So have ordered Hel;s with his guidance.

Will post again when they have been fitted.


DT

[Juvecu]

That's interesting... how did they get damaged to start with? It certainly can't be 'old age' that has them failing.

[Strommer]

That's interesting... how did they get damaged to start with? It certainly can't be 'old age' that has them failing.

I s'pose with a 10 bike it's not impossible it was a K9 or even K8 - which puts it at 3-4 years old in reality.  Be worth checking what is printed on the manual and the frame number.

Mine is 7 years old and the rear hose needs doing now - looks like a zeppelin - pretty sure it has the originals which the manual suggests should be replaced at 4 years.

[Juvecu]

I replaced my hoses on 87k in March this year, they were still serviceable, but I wanted better feel and needed longer ones to go with my higher handlebars. They were 7 years old, so hoses failing after 2 years is really suspect. Don't make them like they used to?

[Strommer]

Wouldn't be surprised if my 28k is similar to 50k for a non city bike due to riding the back brake so much in traffic.  

My rear disc lasted 24k.  Want to fry an egg?  Don't waste your time with the engine block....

[Juvecu]

True, I hardly ever need to use brakes on the majority of my commute. Engine braking is enough most of the time.

[LaKraven]

True, I hardly ever need to use brakes on the majority of my commute. Engine braking is enough most of the time.

I don't commute anymore (thank god) but on the vast majority of my journeys I rarely touch the brakes. As you say, enigne braking is enough most of the time!

[Strommer]

I engine brake all the time, so don't use the brakes for stopping as such.  What I do is drag the rear drag a lot for slow speed wiggliness....

NB - Just had a look at my cables and they say 8/04 on them - looks like a date to me.  Worth checking your own to see.

I guess this means that when I took my bike for its 14.5k service on the 5 year mark.... they should have changed the hoses.....