No Headlights on Start-up...

[Strommer]

Pass couple of days the bike has started OK but the headlights won't come on until I've driven down the road a few metres....

They have always come on then cut-out during start-up as designed.  No life at all now until it's been run down the road.

I've tried revving it in case it's just voltage or some-such, but no effect.  Lights only come on when it's in gear and chugging down the road.  Notably they will cut out if the revs drop in the first few seconds, after that they seem happy.

Any ideas...?  

[Oop North John]

Load shed relay knackerd and it needs the vibrations from being on the road to loosen it off?

[Strommer]

I thought it might be vibration so shook every cable in sight and threw the bike around but no luck. It had to be running.  

It definitely feels low- voltage related but what is odd is that I can't get the voltage up just by revving...

Which is the Load Shed relay....?  Is it the starter relay such as this:

http://motorcycleproducts.co.uk/catalogue/starter-relay-Suzuki-DL650-200405-p-45488.html

NB The battery is definitely OK.

[Oop North John]

The relay that dumps all the lights etc when you hit the starter button so that as much of the power goes to the starter motor. It might be called something slightly different, but it's the one that'll turn the lights off normally.

One other thought, does your bike have ABS and does it kicking in / arming coincide with the headlights coming on?

[Strommer]

I've bought the one above.  It did have the master fuse (part of this unit) blow a while ago (my fault), so it's worth a punt.

If this doesn't work and it ain't the ECM then the bike goes.  I can get a low mileage 2010 bike for £4k, so it's not worth spending money on this.

Will let you know how it goes.

Thanks.

[Toolman]

Have you tried cleaning and lubricating the handlebar starter switch assembly, in the bottom part of that is what cuts the lights out for starting. Worth a look at.

[2112]

Also worth a try is sticking a multi meter accross the battery terminals to see what the voltgage dip is like. It could also be a bad earth/poor connection that doesn't always manifest itself without the load of starting on it.

[Strommer]

OK - think I've found the problem - broken wire running down the side of the ignition.  Squeeze it and lights come on.

Taken tomorrow off to fix it.

Test rode a DRZ400 at lunch....rough or what, though it could grow on me.

[Strommer]

Just had the fairings off and the first connector block (a black 'one) was corroded to buggery.  Cleaned it up to no avail.  Will remove the block and solder the wires tomorrow - can't see the need for a connector block there.

[Piglumps]

Just had the fairings off and the first connector block (a black 'one) was corroded to buggery.  Cleaned it up to no avail.  Will remove the block and solder the wires tomorrow - can't see the need for a connector block there.

It might be there to assist in assembling the bike in the first place - but I could be wrong. I was wrong once before apparently.

[Strommer]

That was my thinking too, seems to serve no purpose now other than to catch moisture....

Oh....and piss me off.....

[2112]

Most connectors are just to aid assembly. Oh, and you're right, just to piss you off. Damn you corrosion !!!

[Strommer]

Well, did it.  Kind of...

Cleaned up all the connectors again to no avail, still loose.  

There are two fat wires so I figured they'd be the current bearing ones so I pulled one and connected it (using it's connector - but outside the connector block), soldered the connector in place  then plugged the connector block back in.  Hello presto, fixed first time.

There's so little cable slack that even taking off the connectors risked losing a vital inch.  

That's the third connector block in 6 months I've had to clean up.  Looks like a K5 has a five year lifespan before the electrics need a spring clean.

Also did an oil change (only 2k miles but it felt good to do it).

[2112]

It's alway's worth pulling the connectors apart and giving them a squirt of contact lubricant. It'll save some greif in the long run. The Guzzi is getting this treatment over the winter (dodgy wop electrics an' all...).

[Oop North John]

It's alway's worth pulling the connectors apart and giving them a squirt of contact lubricant. It'll save some greif in the long run. The Guzzi is getting this treatment over the winter (dodgy wop electrics an' all...).

I rate ACF 50 for its protection of the metal bits both electrical and frame.

[2112]

Agreed, top quality stuff indeed  

[Strommer]

ACF50 in the electrics?  Really?  I spray it everywhere but have avoided more than an overspray of the electrics since a spray of this screwed my Oxford boss alarm lock electrics...

[2112]

As long as the spray is non conductive it will be fine. Some spray's are conductive when 'wet' and  non conductive when 'dry', ie when the peopellant has evaporated.

[Strommer]

I always assumed ACF50 is conductive and that's how it reverses corrosion - by sticking blocking ions into the ferrous metals.  It'd have to be conductive to do that, though the end result is a non-conductive oxide layer - a kind of galvanic goo.  

[2112]

Indeed, the mystery of the atom.. I know from experience how conductive 'inert' substances can be when pressurised, messy...