Suzuki V-Strom (VStrom) Owners Club DL250, DL650, DL1000 & DL1050
V-Strom specific discussion => V-Strom specific discussion => Topic started by: Gerardo on April 15, 2022, 08:48:34
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Returning from a four hour open highway ride yesterday, I noticed engine idle was high - around 2000rpm. Left it overnight but same today. Throttle action feels normal. Any clues as to cause and cure? Air filter fine, valve clearances fine. No error code alert as far as I can see.
The only thing different before this started happening was that I ran very very low on fuel at the end of the ride, ie, the fuel gauge said zero kilometres of fuel left.....like for about twenty minutes of riding. But didn't run out as such. Made it to a servo with engine still running, filled up and rode the final few k home. And a short while later noticed no engine braking due to high idle.
Maybe its a faulty engine temp sensor, the one that informs the chip to run the fast idle when cold feature? Anyone know which sensor triggers fast idle? Had this problem??
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I'm going to take the cam covers off and check valve clearances just to rule that out. Tried to remove the airbox but can't for the life of me see the screw that secure the box to the front throttle body intake. Any tips? When that's off, will do a visual to ensure no cracks in intake boot or blocked intake mouth etc. Then look at the throttle cams. But no idea what to look for.....??
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As far as the error code goes, how did you test for checking the dealer mode codes? Often when in dealer mode, the bike has to be taken for a ride / run before the some of the dealer mode codes appear.
To me, the faster / higher idle rpm could range from a stuck secondary throttle valve butterfly, a cold idle setting malfunction, a faulty fuel controller (like power commander, etc), throttle not fully closing, etc. Start with the things that don't require the tupperware to be removed.
Does the throttle close fully? I'm thinking along the lines of perhaps a heated grip cable, throttle grip end cap / hand guard, etc, preventing the throttle from fully closing.
Also have a look at the exhaust control valve actuator on the exhaust pipe on the right side just as the pipe comes out from under the engine. It is worth a quick look... When you turn on the ignition (before starting) that valve should cycle as a self test. Anything preventing the actuator for full range of operation? Perhaps a twig or stone?
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I’ve also got a 14 1000. It could be the linkage rod that connects the carbs…
Something similar happened to me a couple of months ago. Coming of the motorway after a run from Glasgow to Manchester it wouldn’t go back to its normal idle speed.
After some advice from the local Suzuki dealer in Hyde I lifted the tank off and sprayed oil into the two knuckle connections on the connecting between the carbs - and it was great after that. I’ve had the tank off twice since then and each time give the knuckles a quick squirt - just in case.
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If you look at the bottom of the airbox on the lefthand side (clutch lever side) you see a little half grove on the base near the back, this leads to the 3mm allen caphead screw that hold the front airbox clamp. Get a torchlight and you'll see it easy. You do need a 3mm long t bar etc to reach it.
Some 2014 on vstrom's needed new throttle bodys as they there drawing air from worn linkages if I remember right, I hope it's not that as that's expensive.
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Artyman, DL1000 does not have carbs, it is fuel injected. You must have been talking abouth throttle body ;)
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Something else that comes to mind, is the low idle assist function, that may for some reason be triggered.
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>>Artyman, DL1000 does not have carbs, it is fuel injected. You must have been talking abouth throttle body ;)<<
Well...the big silvery metally things under the airbox that lots of pipes go into - which are connected together by a linkeage....
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I did the hard yards, and took airbox off and cleaned up the throttle bodies, linkages, connectors etc. Then took radiator and cam covers off and checked valve clearances, which were all nicely in spec. So put it all back together and fired it up, and the idle speed courteously went back down after the auto warmup. So what was it? Who knows. Dry linkages? Connector clip not properly connected? No idea, but of course just glad it now works again. And demystified what's under the airbox for next time. Thanks blokes for tips and advice!!
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Fm Artyman:- "Well...the big silvery metally things under the airbox that lots of pipes go into - which are connected together by a linkeage...."
:bow-blue: Now that's proper tech talk that is :thumb: