Suzuki V-Strom (VStrom) Owners Club DL250, DL650, DL1000 & DL1050
V-Strom specific discussion => V-Strom specific discussion => Topic started by: Jez6640 on September 18, 2019, 21:37:37
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Hi all
I wonder if anyone could help.
I have a 2008 v strom 1000, in low gears following traffic for instance if I hold it at low constant speed the bike will cut out for a split second with what sound like a relay click and then just Carrie's on as normal, it happens quite often though.
Does anyone have any ideas please.
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A bit more info required please. Cutting out, in that you have to restart it again via the start button or a hesitation / stumble, where the idle is very low? Did this start happening after you put in some new fuel? What is the battery charging voltage? Did you perhaps service the bike recently?
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Hi,
As it says above, and just purchased only thing garage did was fit a new tbs to it before I picked it up.
Cheers
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The cutting out / flat spot at a fixed throttle position does sound like a TPS failure, but this would happen with the throttle in the same position each time, no matter in which gear ridden. I wonder whether the TPS was setup correctly vs rpm setting. There a few links that you may want to read if you have time, https://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,31002.0.html, https://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,20833.0.html and https://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,15866.0.html
The gen 1 Vee was also known for running lean at lower rpms. Perhaps a fuel flow test to confirm the fuel pump is OK, https://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,11603.0.html
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Cool thanks,
When I test rode it it kept stalling so the put a new tps on for me, I just presume they set it up correctly. It's funny in as much that you can hear a click, then it cuts for a split second then picks up and carries on as normal until it does it again. Only had it happen in lower gears not 5 or 6 yet
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Thanks Gert the second thread seems to be the same problem as mine the click then cut, also how do I check the voltage that yiy mentioned earlier and when I do what am I looking for.
Thanks
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A few of the gen 1 Vee's reported that they had issues of the stator magnet migration. Basically for the charging system to work correctly, the stator magnets that turn around the stator, cames adrift. These have to be repositioned and glued into place with JB Weld, https://www.stromtrooper.com/DL1000-2002-2012/400946-stator-magnets-jb-weld-pictures.html.
To monitor the voltage, many install a digital volt meter or similar that will display the voltage across the battery while the engine s running (switched power so the battery doesn't drain when the engine is not running).
A static test can be done by connecting a multi meter (on the 20 Volts DC setting) and with the engine running read the voltage across the battery. The charging voltage without any accessories turn on should be roughly 14<14.8V at 3<5,000 rpm. Consult your manual. If you don't have a manual go to the downloads section on this site.
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Hi again Gert
I have fitted a volt meter to the bike on a switched live, it reads 14.4 pretty constant.
Does this sound OK, and if it is does this mean the stator is OK.
Cheers
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"..., it reads 14.4 pretty constant" sounds about right for the stator output. Let us know how you fair with the cut out problem that you reported.
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The click/clunk you are hearing when the engine momentarily cuts out is the starter clutch.
Some Vee's seem to have running issues around 4k rpm , they seem to run very lean making the bike cough/splutter and adding silencers will exaggerate the issue.
Being a big V-Twin this can sometimes stall the bike and make some horrible sounds and on occasion make the rear throttle body pop out of the inlet rubber.
First of all being an 11 year old bike I'd check the fuel flow , lift up the rear of your tank , disconnect the fuel line and power to the pump.
Put a rubber pipe onto the pump outlet that feeds into a measuring jug then apply 12v to the pump power supply. Now, there's 3 wires on the connector and I can't remember which ones to use so you would have to find out which ones.
Once you have done that, connect the 12v power for 30secs and see how much fuel goes into the jug.
The required amount should be around 1200ml. If it's well short of that figure remove the pump and check filters etc.
If all is well with the pump some have fitted TRE's/healTech and such like, this slightly changes the OEM fuel mapping and in some instances can cure the issue however, if not a power commander with a custom map will definitely cure the problem.
Obviously the former is the cheapest but the latter will totally transform the bike.
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Brilliant thanks for that, checked the tps in dealer mode today and that is spot on so I am guessing a power commander it is then.
Time to say bye bye to 600 quid then :shrug:
Thank you for all your help on my issues, and happy riding everyone.
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Try TRE first, my bike have tre and it is lovely in all rpm range :)
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What is TRE please
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https://smartmoto-electronics.com/Suzuki-smart-tre/smart-tre-timing-retard-eliminator-str-002?moto_brand_id=1&moto_model_id=125&moto_year=2008 (https://smartmoto-electronics.com/Suzuki-smart-tre/smart-tre-timing-retard-eliminator-str-002?moto_brand_id=1&moto_model_id=125&moto_year=2008)
Description
Suzuki have retarded the ignition timing of all gears except the 4th on the DL1000 1st gen. This restriction is applied by Suzuki to limit the available torque in low speeds for road safety.
Our Smart TRE bypasses this restriction and gives the optimal map of 4th gear to all gears for maximum performance.
SmartMoto has created this new version of the popular TRE mod which is smart and does not affect the map of Neutral, while it gives the unrestricted 4th gear signal when any other gear is selected. Also, we gave special attention to durability; we enclose the whole product into special high grade resin like the most motorcycle manufacturers do in similar applications.
Key Features
Bypasses the Timing Restriction which in DL1000 applies to all gears except the 4th
Improves the throttle response and releases maximum torque
Does not affect Neutral like the cheap TRE versions
Plug and play design, no wire cutting required
Compatible with the Power CommanderTM and the Bazzaz Z-FiTM.
* Customer reviews have shown improved power delivery and stronger overall accelerations with the product installed
High Quality Standards
The whole product is enclosed into a special high grade resin. It is the most durable design available, it is compact and it is completely waterproof.
We use only OEM connectors to ensure perfect fitment.
Plug and play design, no wire cutting required.
Sophisticated production and high quality parts ensure top quality product.
This product is tested and developed for the listed motorcycle.
Cost: £31.72
Worth trying
Let us know the result if you decide to try, I think is worth it, 31 quid instead of 600 is a big difference. Even if won't help, that's the money myself I would swallow. But is very likely it will help. My bike before I install this was rough between 2k and 4k rpm, now it is great. I can go as low as 1,5 - 2k rpm and it is still OK. I have a more expensive version built in in gear indicator but this will do.
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Some more info on the TRE, https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000a-2014-2016/315153-pcfc-x-tre.html, https://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,10921.0.html and https://www.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=36834.0
A current discussion on the power commander, https://www.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=37164.0
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Thirty one squids is a bit steep for a resistor, spend more and include a gear position indicator. :thumb: https://www.healtech-electronics.com/shop/gpat/
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See the second link (DIY TRE) in my post on TRE info. It is something to consider if you are either want an inexpensive solution or just want to experiment. Let us know the result.
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TLpower, that's what I have, healtech GPAT. And the TRE from my link is a bit more than resistor.
Its a smart tre which doesn't affect neutral. But looks like bloke already decided to buy power commander and spend 10x that much.
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It appears Hampshire streets are also paved in gold .. :shock:
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@pichulec, I had the resistor on my TL engined Cagiva, I fitted the healtec version to gain the gear position indicator. There was absolutely no difference in performance between the two. The gear position indicator was very nice and useful, but £31 for a resistor and a couple of plugs is frankly taking the p*ss.
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At least is well made and plug and play. that's what you are paying for.
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Thanks tlpower.
I am not convinced a 30 quid part on it's own will fix the problem. Also confused why someone thinks hampshire streets are paved with gold. What is wrong with working hard 6 days a week to get the things you want in life????
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Nothing wrong with working hard, we all do it.
Well... unless you are retired. :whistle:
Enjoy the banter, plenty of it on this site . :thumb:
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Thanks tlpower. didn't think it would make enough of a difference.
Also confused why I can't spend my money how I wish. I work hard 6 days a week so if I want to buy a power commander I will!!
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lol Good for you Jez! Like kwackboy says, there's a bit of banter on here, but the help and advice is to be taken seriously! :thumb: I think the logic being shared is that £31 is worth a punt (it worked for pichulec) and if it doesn't work for you, the 600 quid option is still there :icon_wink:
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Mine was doing the same .seems to be the throttle posision sensor needed to be adjusted .hopefully fault found a cured on monday
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Oh Jez, you have completely misread the tone here. Relax, all anyone is giving you is good advice, nobody cares how hard you do or don't work, how you spend your money or what the pavements are made of where you live :roll: It is a bit of banter mixed in with some sound advice. All is well :sunny: