Suzuki V-Strom (VStrom) Owners Club DL250, DL650, DL1000 & DL1050
V-Strom specific discussion => V-Strom specific discussion => Topic started by: pr on April 01, 2016, 17:22:09
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Hi all
Tomorrow I will try to sort out my indicators. I noticed the right side isn't working at all, including the dash light. Also with the hazard lights. Left side is fine.
I read some topics already and the best place to start is to check all the connectors, clean them out and some WD40? And I also understood that it often is an evil yellow connector.
Today a toolset arrived, so I can take the fairing off, and if necessary the tank.
What is the best way to start? Especially which connectors are worth to check out first?
It will be the first time I'm taking it apart, so all advice is welcome!
-Paul
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Paul,
First things first, do you have a Multmeter? It's pointless stripping the bike before you have established if there is voltage at the indicators.
Bulbs, Fuse, Relay, Switch are the first steps. :thumb:
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Thanks, I have a multimeter. Was planning to check those first :fix:
I was afraid that if the dash light also stayed off, the cause could be a bit deeper.
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If you have a probe you can give power to different wires after the connectors to see which connector is faulty or where the fault lies. Multimeter is good for basic troubleshooting and diagnosis but a probe will pinpoint the fault for you. Use them both
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A probe for DC?
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Precisely. I use it to pinpoint faults
Automotive probe (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121841684165?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
(http://www.uktools.com/images/sea/big/PP1.V3.jpg)
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I don't have such a probe, so I'll start with the following checks. It stopped raining, so I can start now.
I marked the wires on the diagram that looked relevant. I don't understand how it goes through a fuse?
And how do the connectors look like? I marked 3 things in the picture that I thought are connectors.
Are they easy to find?
(http://I.imgur.com/5qsu54W.png?1)
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Item 2 below is probably the fuse. It does look like a single fuse protects the whole flasher circuit so you need to be looking elsewhere if only one side has failed. Have you checked the bulbs and voltage?
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1595/25913547440_50c0c8e24a_z.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1474/26120061341_d01da44a39_o.jpg)
And this shows where the Relay is;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMKC-CAnm-c
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The bulbs work. I switched both over to the other side.
Where is best to check the voltage? In one of the connectors? I lifted the fuel tank according to the manual, but it's not easy to find them. So maybe need to proceed and take the tank off.
The colours in the wiring diagram: Lg stands for light green?
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The fact you have one side out could point towards the switch on the bars, however, you say that the same symptoms are there when turning on the hazards? If that's the case then probably not the switch.
I don't know how the flasher unit works and whether it's possible for it to fail so that one side doesn't work.
I would normally start at one end and trace the loom, however, because both indicators are out perhaps start at the flasher unit or fuse and seek out the connectors as it's possible a central connector is corroded or there is a break.
I'm not sure it's necessary to lift the tank, all you will see is this (this is your bike);
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I had an identical problem a few years back, on my K7 Wee. After much pulling apart & stripping, turned out to be that yellow connector behind the radiator (you need to remove tank & airbox to get at it). But I'd suggest checking the large connector in the lhs front fairing first, just because its much easier to get to!
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Sam raises a good suggestion there Paul,
You will lose a little skin but it's possible to get to those connectors by just removing one fairing. If you have to, you can tip the radiator forward (being really careful not to damage it), there are just two bolts (one goes through the lhs fairing) and it slides off.
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This is the famous connector on a DL1000, yours is similar in a very similar location.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3899/14660746696_a8d620fbd9.jpg)
and this was a problem connector in the loom from the bars into that same central location, again this is on a DL1000 but yours will be similar.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5566/14683749835_df195ca6e9.jpg)
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OK, I'll give that a go.
Sam, is the lhs connector you're talking about nr 2 in the diagram that I coloured in?
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Precisely. I use it to pinpoint faults
Thanks, I ordered one (Paul, this is a great addition to your new toolkit) :thumb:
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Paul,
In the absence of any test equipment, as well as looking for obvious broken wires and corroded connectors, you might also detect heat either side of a connector (assuming the indicators are left on). This would 'indicate' :shy: resistance in the connector (corrosion).
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Not sure which one it is on the diagram.
But you can see it, if you look down the left inside the fairing (look down from the left handlebar area.) Has a rubber boot on it. You can get to it from below without removing anything.
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How do open the connector?
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If I remember correctly, there's usually a clip you push in (possibly with small screwdriver) & then just pull apart.
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Besides the yellow (mine is green) connector that is clipped onto the radiator covering, also check the large connector below the left handlebar as Fatrat said. It is protected by a bell shaped platic cover and is easy to get at. Most problems seem to be connector corrosion related.
(http://www.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=28820.0;attach=1802;)
(http://www.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=28820.0;attach=1804;image)
And here is the probe being used to pinpoint the fault
(http://www.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=28820.0;attach=1805;image)
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Well, I tested the connector in the fairing (which I marked as 1) and that works. I get power on both the left and the right signal when I set the indicator switch. So the problem seems to be on the left side of 1 in my wiring diagram.
Or does that mean it could still be nr 3 :shrug:
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What you have marked are connectors not switches.
Here is a colour wiring diagram
(http://fsecomputing.co.uk/misc/20160306_121033.jpg)
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Yes, that's what I meant. So I unplugged connector 1, connected the multimeter to black/white and lightgreen on the unplugged connector on the bike side, ignition on and then the indicator to the right on. And repeated for left hand indicator. In both cases I got a voltage that was going up and down (I.e. lights were supposed to blink).
With the left side indicators (good side), the front left light was not working (because connector unplugged) and rear left was blinking at double speed (what you expect with 1 light 'broken').
When doing this on the right side, none of them are working still.
Does that mean it's probably not the yellow connector (because that one is responsible for the power of the whole indicator system, both front and back), and it needs to be checked on the rear connector? (I read there is one supposed to be under the seat in the back?)
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Since you don't have a probe, what you could do is take a longish piece of wire, insert it into the end of the connector on the main loom side (not the one that goes to the indicator) and connect the other end to the indicator directly. See if it works properly. If it does then the problem is between the indicator side connector and the indicator.
Remember the problem could be the earth wire (black), not just the live. Check your earth wires also
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You may be getting enough power to get the meter to work but not a light. That is common in marginal connections. Since both front and rear right side blinkers are out completely, the problem can't be in connectors 1 or 3 unless both failed simultaneously. Connector 2 is the most likely culprit or a crimp connection hidden in the loom or switch housing. There is a crimp connection on the light green wire inside the left handlebar switch housing and another near connector #1 in the diagram. Rig a test light with a signal bulb rather than a meter to add the load of the light to the test.
The black wire is the left turn signal wire. Earth is black with a white stripe and a break in that in connector #2 would either kill the horn or prevent the starter motor from working too.
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How did you get on Paul?
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I didn't manage to find out. After reading GW's post, I took the left handlebar switch housing apart. I didn't have anything to test it with a bulb so just visually inspected. The connections looked OK inside.
I had to put everything back together, because my man-cave is a garden and it might rain again tonight..
Maybe tomorrow I could try something if I have time. And that connector nr 2, is that the yellow one?
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Connector colors are meaningless. The same connector can be had in black, white, yellow, green etc.. Look at the wire colors in the connector. The most likely connector behind the radiator will have a light green wire. Connector #2 is the only one with a wire that color.
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Good point. I was looking behind the radiator and couldn't really spot a large connector, but I was looking for a yellow one...
Thanks so far, blokes! Let's hope it stays dry tomorrow, so I can have another look.
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There should be 2 connectors plugged into your radiator cover. One is smaller and comes from the start button. That will be towards the right of the cover. Then there is the larger one which is what you want to have a look at. That could be yellow or green or maybe any other colour. Like I said, mine is green. This one is easier to get at from the left side of the bike.
Then you have the larger connector below the left handlebar with a plastic/rubber bell shaped cover. Check that too. Infact since you have taken the fairings and other bits and bobs off, it might be a good idea to check all the connectors and spray them with a degreaser/anti corrosion and reinsert them again. This way you will protect and prevent them from corroding in the future.
I went through the same process as you a few weeks ago where I too had lighting trouble.
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Thanks Professor, I did manage to get to the connector below handlebar with the plastic cover fairly easy and it looked clean. I could spray it tomorrow. Is a bit of WD40 good enough for that?
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You have to be careful that the spray will not leave a residue that would be a conductor as it may short circuit other pins. I used SOS 10 which is what a mechanic friend uses.
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A bad connection in the large connector in the left side of the fairing will not kill the right rear blinker, only the front one. The right rear blinker would come on and stay on. The yellow connector on the left in this picture is the #2 connector. Yours could be any color though. The light blue common wire from the flasher is evident though the light green wire must be hidden to the rear. I think I see a hint of it between the two right predominantly black wires. The far right one looks black/yellow which is one of the clutch lever switch wires. The other two may be all black, black/yellow or black/white. Ignore the red arrow. It locates the heated grip connector.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v655/mcmann87/HotGripPlugLocation.jpg)
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It's fixed!! :dance:
Thanks all!
So I did one more test: rigged a bulb directly onto connector 1 in lhs fairing and that worked fine: both front and back were flashing normally. So I assumed the problem was in the wiring in the front part. Just stuck my hand in there, did some random wiggles and it worked? :shock: :fix:
If it happens again, I can start looking in the front part then. Will take it for a proper test ride now and see how she behaves :dl_bike:
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That's good news Paul but I'd be wanting to get to the source of the intermittent connection. If it's a loose connection or corrosion it's not going to get better :thumb:
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I agree, but I didn't have more time to do any long jobs, so I'll put it on my to-do-list for a long sunny spring day.
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I think your biggest challenge there is finding a long sunny day :rain:
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I'm thinking of a gazebo
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Hi all
So I got back to my to-do-list and tried to fix the loose connector or faulty wiring. The right hand indicators are not working anymore and fiddling the wiring in the front doesn't work anymore either. (that was a matter of time...)
Because last time I already found that a bulb attached directly on the connector in front left fairing works well, I think the problem is somewhere in the front part of the wiring. I'm having trouble opening all the front up and taking all the panels off. I spent some hours, but there are some screws and plastic rivets that are not cooperating: they seem stuck. Any advice? I didn't dare to force it.
Is it an idea to bypass the wiring in the front and connect a new wire to the connector in front fairing so it bypasses the problem area? I realise this could result in the indicator light in the dashboard not coming on. But I'm going on a trip on Friday and was hoping to make it at least road-legal (and safe).
-Paul
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You can connect the light green wire at the front of the bike to the light green wire at the rear. If that doesn't do it, connect the black/white earth wire at the front to a wire of the same colour under the seat.
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Thanks, I will try that!
Does anyone by any chance know what the type of connector is which that connects the indicator lights to the wiring? It's this small 2-pin black connector that I mean that is in the fairing and last before it actually goes to the lamps itself. I prefer to make a connector like that rather than splicing into the existing wiring, so I can roll back any changes I'm making
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I'm having trouble opening all the front up and taking all the panels off. I spent some hours, but there are some screws and plastic rivets that are not cooperating: they seem stuck. Any advice? I didn't dare to force it.
Paul,
Those panels have all been off recently, the fairing has a hidden screw in the front grill, the rest of the fasteners are obvious. The plastic rivets are easy to release, a small screwdriver to force the centre pin in and then the whole thing comes out. Just be gentle, you should have one side off in 15 minutes.
If you are somehow passing West Wales I'll do it for you.
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Quote removed
You could try here
http://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Categories/Connectors_Bullet/Motorcycle_2_Way_Coonectors
identifying the exact match may be a problem though.
Whereabouts in Brum are you, I may be able to help with the fairing/panels removal, took mine off a few times.
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Andy, one of the pins shot up a bit and I couldn't get it out. Unfortunately not in the area anytime soon.
Robotstar, thanks for the link. I'm in Harborne. If you have time, that would be great!
But since I'm a bit limited in time I might want to try and go straight to creating a bypass. I can't really find the type of connector on the website, so I thought to splice into the ground cable first. That way, if that was the problem, I can still get the light on the dash to work. If that doesn't solve it, I can splice into the light green cable in the rear and connect it to the front. Does this seem to be a connector to do this job? http://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Categories/Scotch_Lock_Connectors
And what is the wiring size that is used normally?
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Paul,
Did you read this post? http://www.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=29837.msg295504#msg295504 that connector is on the left side of the bike under the fairing.
The connector you are looking for is this http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Mitsu_UC/mitsu_uc.html
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I saw the post, but in my case both of the lights are not working. It worked fine connected directly on the connector. That's why I thought the problem was further up towards the dashboard. In your case, did the light on the dashboard still come on when blinking? Mine didn't.
Thanks for the connector, that's the one!
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You're not too far away, I'm in Kings Norton. As you need to get sorted quick, fit your bypass for now and we'll try and set up a weekend sometime when you get back.
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Be aware Eastern Beaver has a $20 USD minimum order.
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Thanks GW, I will have a good browse then.
Does anyone know the wire size/wire gauge of those wires that are near the indicator? I wanted to drop by Maplin on my way home to check out some T-splice connectors, but they come in multiple sizes.
My plan is to splice for now into the wires on the side of the indicator. Then later I can replace this with a new connector and not having to touch the wiring on the rest of the bike's side.
Robotstar: thanks, much appreciated! I will be in touch later on to see if we can set something up
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18AWG or 1mm should do fine.
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Just to update, I checked again to connect the bulb straight onto the connector and that now didn't work anymore...
So that means that the problem is most likely between the handlebar switch and the hard-to-reach connector.
I need to check all of that later again. I managed to do my trip without the indicator. Just created a good gap before taking the right turns..
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Paul,
The connector you want isn't hard to get to, it hangs behind the left fairing panel.
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I already checked the connector in the fairing. I connected a light bulb directly onto the bike-side of that connector on the light-green and b/w, like I did before. This now didn't work anymore. I suspect the wire that comes from the handlebar switch before it is split into front and rear. Earlier, in the diagram I marked the connector as #2. I think that's the one behind the radiator.
I guess I need to take it apart some time.
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If you are careful you can drop the Rad enough to get your hands behind without draining the coolant. Mind you don't damage the fins.
If you don't mind draining the coolant then you can have the Rad off in 20 minutes.
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With dropping the radiator, you mean unscrewing at the top and carefully tilt forwards?
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Take the bolts out both sides (remember, the fairing bolts through into the Rad) and top and bottom, carefully drop the Rad off of its pivot. You may want to disconnect the thermostat/fan connector depending on its length.
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Check there are no loose wires/connections on the indicators
Happened to me once, all it was was a loose earth wire
And try swapping parts around to find the problem area, then go from there
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Didn't have to go as far as unscrewing the radiator. I sprayed a good amount of contact cleaner spray on the connector. After that dried up I put a good layer or acf 50 on there. Now it works again. We'll see for how long, but I know the next step to undertake then.