Suzuki V-Strom (VStrom) Owners Club DL250, DL650, DL1000 & DL1050
V-Strom specific discussion => V-Strom specific discussion => Topic started by: Fat Rat on February 15, 2016, 16:58:07
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The K7 DL650 I bought recently had been standing for a year completely unused. I drained the fuel from bike but there would have been some left in the pump/pipes/injectors.
I have ridden the bike and it has performed just as I'd expect, however, there now appears to be a fault which sounds to me like it's fuel related.
On a long ride the bike gets progressively worse, first peaking at 6000 RPM, then 5000 RPM and then all the way down until only 30MPH is possible. Park the bike up for a short time and it improves.
Does this sound like congealed fuel somewhere/ If so, any recommendations on an additive that may clear it or is it a strip and clean job?
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Hi
If it feels like fuel what about a blocked tank breather, but could be engine temperature related electrical/engine management fault.
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Leave the filler cap undone and see. My guess same as endintears'
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Trapped breather tube was my guess. l seem to have been out thunk again...
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does the fuel system have a filter that could be blocked, sounds like fuel is struggling to get through somewhere.
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Can you explain what happens ie what gets progressively worse?
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Loss of power, available revs decreasing from 6k down and down until the bike is only capable of 30mph.
Due to the history (bike standing), I suspect stale fuel or a blockage resulting in fuel starvation. The fact that the situation improves after a short pause also points to starvation?
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Does it have a surge/stutter/misfire?
Reason I mention is I've refurb'd a couple of bikes that have stood, 1 had the above (a stutter/misfire/loss of power only when warm, in the midrange & only under load) that progressively got worse as the bike warmed up.
After lots of disassembly, checking, reassemmbly, heads cratching etc I was convinced it was fuel starvation - it turned out to be internal corrosion in the plug caps so might be worth checking primary & secondary resistance through the coils/ht leads & plug caps, probably various other leccy connections (battery & RR)
A long shot maybe but easy enough to check, however from your description maybe not the case.... perhaps check the tank vent.
Good luck, they are often daft niggly things but can be infuriatingly hard to find but strangely satisfying when you do track it down!
Phil
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Does the engine get hotter than you would expect on your long ride? Judging from your long experience with vstroms ;-) What do the plugs look like? Too light, brown and burned looking?
Open the filler cap and run your finger round the inside of the tank...that's right, slowly, you bad boy! Is there rust on Your finger? If the bike was stood outside without fuel for an age, it might have rusted?
Try some good old fashioned redex in the fuel? Or that yankee stuff (I think) called 'Seafoam' ?
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I'd go with a clogged high pressure fuel filter.
See the test at http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,3981.0.html
If you get a low result, for a cheaper remedy than buying an expensive new one, see http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,6105.0.html
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There is one very easy test you can perform:
Ride the bike until it lose the power. Stop it but don't shut the engine off. Use your spare key to unlock petrol tank cap and put you ear close to it. Open it and listen if you hear strong suction noise. If you do, you just did the reset on the vacum formed inside the tank. Close the cap and ride the bike straight on. See if all the power was back to normal. If it was, then you have clodged breather pipe somewhere. Do you have chain oiler that uses the vacum to oil the chain? If there was the vacum problem the oiler may be the one to blame.
Don't know, this is just one of possibilities, easy to test out.
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Thanks all,
I should explain the reason for some of the questions, I have sold the bike and it's the new owner that is experiencing the problem :angry-banghead:
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Has the new owner joined on here?
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Let us know, Andy, it should be a fairly easy fix, given the symptoms. I can understand how it slipped past you, not having a chance to get it on an extended run :shy: :fix:
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Actually Dave, the day before he collected it I took it on a 50 mile road test, it ran like a dream :shrug:
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He's filled it with diesel...
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Does seem odd if it worked fine for you :shrug: Maybe he's installed something and disturbed something else under the tank?
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Hi all
This is the new owner :) Thanks for all your input.
So I haven't had time to do much testing. But as Fat Rat described, there is a loss of power after a few minutes of riding. Rpm doesn't go over 6k, then slowly the max goes to around 3k. It's not limited at those rpm's, but it seems to drop to idle then. Starting and idling is always fine. Switching off engine for a couple of minutes seems to reset a bit. No warning lights or error codes.
I've added Wurth petrol additive, recommended by Streetbike in Birmingham. Still need to burn the whole tank through: I didn't have more time than a 30 mile run, and motorways are not really an option with 40mph, so need more time for that.
Will definitely try the fuel cap test.
The engine doesn't get too hot (AFAIK temperature on the dash was always in the middle range).
I didn't change anything under the tank. Also no Diesel ;) Last top up was with BP premium stuff.
The first ride was just under 200 miles, and most symptoms weren't really present in the first 30 -50 miles (I took A-roads all the way). That could help explain why that first 50 mile test ride went fine.
I could try and add some Redex as well. Is it OK to mix with the Wurth stuff?
I will write how any further tests went!
Paul
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To me, it sounds like negative pressure in the tank, again. If you say 50-60 miles after, and the problem shows up, it sounds like some fuel was consumed and air can't enter the tank.
The fuel cap test you can do even without stopping. Just keep spare key in the lock of the cap and when problem shows up, simply open the cap while riding. If the negative pressure in the tank was the problem, it should get better in 4-5 seconds.
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Thanks
I read something about vented and non-vented caps here: http://www.stromtrooper.com/maintenance-how/63893-gas-caps-vented-non-vented-how-change-tumblers.html
Do you know how to determine the vent is in the cap without taking it apart?
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The only non vented caps are on USA California legal models with internal vent tubes connected to the throttle body intakes through charcoal canisters. No Euro spec bike has non vented caps that I've ever heard of.
That is takes a while before problems occur makes a venting problem a likely one but do a fuel pump test too. It could also be a heat related TPS failure. If popping the cap doesn't work and the fuel pump passes the volume test, I'd replace the TPS.
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At the risk of sounding foolhardy, mine exhibited very similar symptoms recently, what I thought was a loss of power was actually the glue on the heated grips melting with the heat and the grip turning on the throttle tube... :roll:
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So I went on a short ride this morning with the key in the tank cap. After about 10 minutes the problem appeared. I pulled over without switching it off, opened the cap and it didn't make any difference. I went on for about 10 minutes and lifted the cap to check it wasn't vacuum, but it didn't help.
I didn't have enough time to empty the tank and all the additive. Didn't have the heated grips switched on, so it wasn't that glue melting!
So next would be the fuel pump test. I checked the link, but I don't know where to begin. Do you need a lot of tools/disassembly to do this?
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This really sounds like a blocked fuel filter, as you state, did a 200 mile run, that would have got the fuel to the bottom of the tank, and perhaps sucked up some crap, putting fresh fuel in would not help, as rubbish already in the filter.
I would start with the filter, if it is dirty/blocked, I would then remove the fuel tank and flush it out with clean fuel, put fresh fuel in and go from there.
Its a well known fact that petrol decays over time, as the bike stood for a while, there could have been rubbish in bottom of tank.
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Lets try and sort out if its fuel, next check, you say the revs drop to a certain level, same when you pull the clutch in and rev the engine? same when you go up/down a hill or running on the flat?
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All it takes to do the test is to prop up the tank and make electrical connections. If that is outside your experience, you can have it done by someone familiar with such procedures. Here's how to get tank access. http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,7566.0.html
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endintears:
I did find today that when I try to rev, but it doesn't want, and I then pull the clutch in and stay on the throttle, then the rpms stay the same (so in the last case around 4000).
When it halts at those rpm, you can move the throttle up and down and sometimes it responds a little. So I also had to think of the TPS (as far as I know how that works..). But I don't know if that only acts up when the engine is warm.
Joderest/greywolf:
I'm not that comfortable taking it all apart.
Maybe later this week I have some time to do a little bit of extra testing.
Thanks for input so far!
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Think its a 4K potentiometer, need to do resistance tests hot and cold.
Seems to be a lot on youtube showing how to do it + sure some friendly help will be here shortly on this forum. :fix:
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Must admit I would be surprised if the tps alone would cause those symptoms, its not a fly by wire setup.
Definitely sounding engine management rather than blocked fuel or low pressure.
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Will the bike still run (albeit in limp) with the tps disconnected?
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I'm collecting the bike on Tuesday and bringing it back to Rat Manor.
Can someone point me to the fuel pump test for the K7? The link GW posted mentions it but I can't see it :old:
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http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,3981.0.html
The fuel amount specified is the same for all V-Strom fuel pumps. Hook up the pump motor leads to a battery and 1200 ml in 30 seconds is the spec, Y/R+ and B/W-. Things get iffy on a 650 at about half that. What to do about a bad pump is different between the K7+ 650 fuel pump and earlier or Vee pumps.
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I'll have it back here on Wednesday, I will post the findings :thumb:
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I assume I can leave the pump connected to its circuit and cycle the ignition to do the flow test?
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The pump will automatically shut off after a set time if the engine isn't running as a safety feature. If you want to do a test procedure like that, the link has the amount of fuel that should be present after a set number of ignition cycles. That adds another variable, time to shut off, to the test so it isn't as accurate.
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Fair enough, I won't be lazy, I'll do it properly :shy:
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Have I got this right, the Fuel Pump assembly (complete) is the same for a K7 and an L1?
15100-27G00
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That is correct. K4-K6 used the same fuel pump as the Vee. That changed in 2007 and stayed the same from K7 to L1. You could use a Vee pump too though you'd have to splice the R/B and B/W wires together on the older models and connect the wires to the wires on the Wee connector. K2-K3 Vees had separate earth wires for the pump motor and and fuel level sensor. K4 and later Vees combined the earths as did the Wees.
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This one states 2011 in the title and then 2012 - 2015 in the description :shrug:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251992360778?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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That's probably a Glee pump. It has a different part number but that's probably about the the fuel level sender. I'm not sure about the rest of the parts.
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When you have the tank off carry out some checks to the TPS. I've seen similar symptoms in a couple of Wee's. Here are the parameters . Hope you get to the bottom of this problem :thumb:
(http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah123/brian_barton1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160223_194912_zpsvspwogjt.jpg)
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:ty:
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Most of the time, TPS problems do not show up on tests. I'd replace it at any hint it might be a problem.
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Bike safely transported back from Birmingham to West Wales. Assuming I am not doing anything daft, then the following is a flow test with dismal results.
Also some images showing sediment from the Tank.
This is the Laboratory
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1617/25139866542_ba968b6e84.jpg)
The test.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4eRDwjFoz4
The result! (that's not 1200ml)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1649/24627500674_71cf98a100.jpg)
Sludge
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1589/24890461359_9ae1829a65.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1485/24962554490_46dc0f5a05.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1616/24962560970_de59e4f0f9.jpg)
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That's pretty much what I expected based on the symptoms.
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Do you think the external filter mod will resolve this? The Pump does sound like it is doing its job.
I've seen the images of drilling between the walls in the filter to allow fuel to flow but if I'm honest I'm not clear on the whole mod :shrug:
I'm also looking for (sensible) solutions for cleaning the inside of the tank :thumb:
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The problem is the K7 and later 650 pumps are different from the pumps the original modification the article covers. They are covered later but one of the pictures is missing. It takes two aspects to properly align the drill. I think I would feel better replacing the filter/regulator #15610-27G00 and the strainer #15420-05H00 but the valiant or the cheap could try figuring out the drill angle.
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Parts ordered, look out for the next flow test video to be shown soon on a screen near you :smirk:
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If the parts are on order try the drill on the old one and see how it goes.
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Just out of interest, are you fixing it for the new owner or did you take it back? Does this make you a proper dealer now you offer a warranty?
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I would never sell a bike knowingly faulty. I am fixing it for the new owner. Once it has been tested thoroughly and running how it should I will take it back to him.
Nothing to do with warranty, just about doing the right thing.
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I'd use your shop if you owned one .!! :grin:
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He could start a dealership with all the bikes he's got.
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Plenty of courtesy bikes and test rides, then?
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"just about doing the right thing". I feel the same Fat Rat, sold my VFR in September (locally) and told him he's got two weeks to check it out and if there's anything wrong I'll sort it, then to bring it back after 3k miles and I'll show him how to change the oil/filter adjust the chain etc. He doesn't think it's as easy as it is!
He didn't bring it back but saw him in the pub the other day and said he wants to take me up on the offer of a "service" in a month or so. He'll bring the parts and I'll do the labour!
Line of sight warranties aren't for me.
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Top stuff FR :thumb: :clap:
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You are going well over what most private sellers will do. Good egg.
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Much appreciated indeed :thumb:
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That Fat Rat eh! what a good bloke. I bet if he ran a bike club lots of us would join... errr oh! hang on a minute.
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DL650AK9 Service Manual page 223, pump fuel discharge amount: min 168 ml/10 sec (could somebody check that I am looking at the correct info) so not sure where the 1200ml/30 sec value has come from.
On the video it looked like you had still got less than even this lower figure but I thought it might be relevant when you do the next flow test.
Intresting thread, own a K9 that was sat in a dealers for quite a while before I bought it and though running OK wondering whether to check mine...
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http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,3981.0.html
There is a reference there to a few quotes in manuals including yours. 1200ml in 30 seconds is the minimum rate a new Vee or pre K7 Wee pump should provide. Much below half that and problems become evident.
Given further information, a post K7 pump may provide less as a 650 won't need as much fuel but the amount shown here isn't enough.
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I went back and took a look at the K4 Wee manual. It also has 168ml in 10 seconds so that number may be a lower limit or just plain wrong. The Wee from K4-K6 had the same pump as the Vee.
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It is an interesting subject and I may even email Suzuki for a definitive view, either way, my test probably produced around 100ml in 30 seconds so there is clearly a problem :fix:
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Just caught up on this - :thumb: Fat Rat. Bloody good on Your :sunny:
Is there any rust in the tank, or just 'gunge'? Only way I have ever cleaned out tanks (many years ago, on a 2-stroke single, and a Bonneville) was ball bearings (or new, small, nuts and bolts) and petrol and lots of tedious shaking of tank, empty, rinse, repeat. I probably sniffed more vapours than was good for me, though :icon_drool5: Afterwards I assiduously kept the tank full of fuel as much as possible - filling up after a run, for example.
There's probably a magic spray that does the job, now :shrug:
PS: great advising there, Pat :thumb: Hope you aren't still snowed in over there!
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The snow has been minimal this year, unlike the last two.
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This process has taught me a thing or two, this being one.
Fat Rat's guide to guaranteed after sales revenue.
1. Make sure that your product has a design flaw
2. Make sure that this flaw is guaranteed to affect every item eventually. A good suggestion would be to make it part of the fuel system.
3. Make sure that the part(s) that fail are in the most inconvenient location possible meaning that they are unlikely to be treated during routine maintenance.
4. This step is essential, make sure after putting your customer through steps 1 - 3 that you charge a ridiculous amount of money for the badly designed part, let's start at over £100 :icon_batterup:
5. When you send the part to the customer, have the decency to use a really oversized box so they think they are getting value for money.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1616/25173950880_72d595d545.jpg)
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Actually, despite the rant above, stripping the Pump is quite straightforward. My advice to everyone is to make sure to use a permanent marker to mark up the cable connections. I cleverly marked up the plastic body of the pump assembly :clap:
Then washed it off with Carb Cleaner :dl_smiley_banghead:
Anyhoo.. It all comes apart quite easily.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1563/25350975242_9c4d6e9dd8.jpg)
After paying over £100 for the Regulator/Filter I was tempted to clean the Strainer, after all, how bad could it be?
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1469/24842775353_cae169f711.jpg)
There were bits of the broken up Strainer everywhere, it's likely that it could have even caused the blockage. Suzuki wanted £30 for this :violence-smack: fortunately there is a pattern version for around £8.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1460/25350967072_48bb07f50d.jpg)
I spent a bit of time giving everthing a thorough clean.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1509/24838884874_c98bbc821b.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1606/25350974972_3426d738ec.jpg)
Reassembly is easy.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1577/25173860290_f5a8ddb823.jpg)
I'm just finishing cleaning the Tank, I hope to repeat the flow test later this evening.
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This is flow test 2 :smirk: It was carried out without the use of a lovely assistant so there was a slight bit of spillage at the end :shy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sdr_VaRq2Mk
As soon as the Pump fired up I could see that the flow was dramatically improved.
Allowing for the spillage, I make that 500ml in 30 seconds (you may not be able to see the numbers on the jug so take my word for it) :)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1672/25446470716_5b837ccb45_z.jpg)
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That's all lovely of course, however, she won't start :dl_smiley_banghead:
No errors, the Pump does its thing and the bike turns over as expected but she won't fire :shrug:
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500ml in 30 seconds is not great but the engine should start. Have you tried opening the throttle as it may be flooded? Since the pump has been problematical, it may not be putting out the required 43psi. You replaced the pressure regulator along with the filter but there may be a partially blocked passage.
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I've tried WOT Pat and no success.
I could understand it if it fired and then died but to not fire at all is odd. I have pulled the fuel connector off to make sure she is still pumping fuel since reassembly and all is well.
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Can you connect the pump output to pressure gauge? Did you check for spark?
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Spark is good.
I've just stripped the Pump assembly again and re-seated everything. I don't have a pressure gauge that I can connect but I can tell that the pressure is three or four times what is was before. I appreciate that isn't very scientific but the difference is obvious.
The bike started before with the lower pressure :shrug:
Regarding the fuel measurement, fuel still flows after I remove the 12v supply during the flow test, I assume that this is fuel that has filled the chamber the Pumps sits in and that for fuel to still flow is normal?
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The only reason I can think of for fuel to keep flowing is the motor takes a little while to spin down. On the bike in normal service, the injectors will be closed and that fuel would be diverted back into the tank. The regulator puts 43psi into the outlet tube and any over pressure pumps back into the tank.
With the tube open in the test, you have flow but can't measure the pressure. The outlet has to be stoppered for pressure to build. You might have something that isn't seated well enough to allow pressure to build. There is a rule of thumb here. The pump should put out enough pressure that you can't hold back the fuel by putting your thumb on the outlet pipe.
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OK, prepare for a picture of a bruised thumb to be uploaded.
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There was very little (if any) resistance to my pinky under the flow test conditions :GRR:
I have ordered a new Pump, watch this space.
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Good work, and thanks for posting it up, very interesting, Andy. Such great effort, that when you get it going I'll send you some of the V-Strom uk stickers I just rediscovered lurking under my computer :thumb: :grin:
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The new Fuel Pump arrived today, the flow test is again improved, approx 1 litre in 30 seconds, however, the bike will not start. Even after continuous cranking there is no smell of fuel. I pull the connector off of the Tank and the pressure is very good when cranking the engine.
I have a question about the connector, the spring clip that I'd expect to live inside the connector is loose on the Tank outlet, it does locate as expected when the connector is pushed home but I was wondering if that connector could be causing a problem?
Flow test 3. (Hopefully this demonstrates the increased output pressure)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzFzmUjjN2g
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1604/25218963989_538c210af1_z.jpg)
It seems odd that there is no O Ring here?
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1710/25219158239_b535c95c1a_z.jpg)
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So you have a new motor, screen and filter/regulator rather than a new pump unit. It looks like you are missing O-ring #6, part # 15113-35F00
The pump is set up for the regulator to keep up a constant 43psi. It does this by sending excess back into the tank. If you have any missing or damaged seals, the pump will be sending needing volume and pressure back into the tank rather than to the injectors.
(http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fiche/images/Suzuki/2007/Motorcycles/10126_16.gif)
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Pat, the O Ring you quote, is that for the part I have the yellow arrow pointing at?
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Yes it is.
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And that was exactly what was stopping the bike from starting. I found an O Ring in my box of bits that seemed to fit, the bike started instantly :lala:
I have now ordered a set of O Rings from Suzuki and will replace them all before handing the bike back.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1598/25589215805_d72b679c61_z.jpg)
I have enjoyed this little exercise and it seems to me that the issues which caused the bike to lose power were;
The Strainer at the base of the Pump assembly had disintegrated, there were bits of it everywhere, I can only guess that bits of this travelled through to the Filter/Regulator and added to any blockage?
The O Ring that was missing, I was very careful when I took the assembly apart, it's possible that it broke up during dis-assembly?
I will take the bike for a decent ride today/tomorrow before I give it the all clear, but I'm pretty optimistic :thumb:
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I'm sure everything will be fine. You've replaced all the wear items. It's now evident why the pump couldn't push your finger off the spigot.
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Well I was just contemplating stocking up on :eusa-doh:, but that has been cancelled, I must say, two better, more committed people would be hard to find, I take my hat of to you both, talk about going the extra mile... :clap: :clap: :clap:
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Top job Fat Rat.
Wurzel keep Your hat on, the mice will escape.
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:clap: :clap: :clap: :thumb:
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You know, sometimes, just sometimes its a bit sad when a thread like this comes to an end and conclusion, I was enjoying the "investigative" nature of the work.
Well done, super job, top banana !!
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The new owner has been away for a few days so no pressure to get the bike back to him. The weather today was great so I took her out for a 40 mile spin over a mix of small roads and 70mph roads.
The power delivery was faultless across the rev range, no hesitation or burps and farts.
Thanks to Pat and others who chipped in :thumb:
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:bow-blue:
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Top work, Andy :clap: What are your thoughts on what might have caused it in the first place? Just an age thing? Maybe sitting dry of fuel for too long?
My bikes a '58 , fingers crossed here...
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Dave, the Strainer was well past its sell by date. I'm not sure if sitting in stale fuel would have broken it down quicker than normal :shrug:
It's a terrible design and now I've seen it first hand I'm surprised we haven't seen more cases like this one.
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Yesterday I met Andy in Aberystwyth and took the bike home to Birmingham.
All the power was right there where I wanted it, no glitches. It was a great ride and it felt like many more to come! :thumb:
As I don't use it daily, I will keep the tank full as much as I can so hopefully that strainer will stay in one piece from now on and as I understood that helps to keep the tank clean.
Top work indeed, Andy! Couldn't have done this myself, so learned a lot from this too. :ty:
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It has later been established that the fuel pump output at a proper 43psi can be stopped by a thumb. Sorry for the misinformation. To be really accurate, a pressure gauge is best used. Maybe there is a rule of pinky but I no longer have a bike to check.
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I have a 2007 V-Strom 650 with 970 miles on the clock. Having little use it failed to start about 2 years ago. A local mechanic, (mostly on cars, works from home, has a half dozen bikes himself) took it and diagnosed the tank full of crud and fuel pump failure. He replaced the pump and, like Fat Rat, he found the strainer had disintegrated. He replaced this too. He cleaned out the tank and it looks quite clean now. I've kept it full of petrol since.
After collecting the bike from the mechanic I rode it on its maiden voyage last summer 2021, It started and drove nicely for about 4 miles then lost power and eventually cut out as I slowed down to get petrol. After filling up I set out for home but despite a wide open throttle the bike gradually lost power, it lost revs and eventually became unrideable. A few minutes wait after stopping seemed to restore its composure for another few miles until it lost power, failed to respond to a wide open throttle and cut out again. I put it in a neighbour’s house about a half mile away but after a few minutes it started again and I managed to ride it home - just. It couldn’t rev more than 2-3K for this last half mile.
It’s been parked up (full of petrol) ever since in my shed. It seems to start easily enough and seems to idle properly on the few occasions I've started it. But I haven’t dared to take it for a ride. The weather has been indifferent, we've had lock down and I had a touch of covid after Christmas, so the bike has been untouched. This was no hardship.
Yesterday I discovered this site. And Fat Rats experience which seemed to mirror my own.
My suspicion was that the crud in the tank has gone through the pump and blocked the injectors, hence the replacement pump not sorting the problem. But that would not explain the good starting (unless there is a choke type effect in the FI where the injectors allow extra fuel into the combustion chambers until the bike is warmed up).
I've dismantled the pump and checked the O rings and all seemed fine. There was minimal debris on the new strainer. I reassembled it carefully.
My intention was to remove the fuel injectors and check that they were not blocked. But I became afraid of the magnitude of that job so I've reassembled it all again after basically doing nothing.
The weather is dodgy for the next few days (I'm now in Co.Waterford in southern Ireland) so I'll take the bike out after it clears up and report. If it isn't cured I'll be seeking advice on how to reach the fuel injectors.
Has anyone any experience of engine cleaning additives that go in the tank? I have a bottle of "Smog Doctor vb26". Does anyone know if its safe to use on a motorcycle engine?
Thanks to Fat Rat for restoring my interest in the bike and giving me some hope that its fixable.
(Mod - please move post if in wrong location)
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Is it not likely that it is the (internal to the fuel pump assembly) high pressure filter rather than the injectors?
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Did your mechanic replace the whole pump assembly or just the little motor and sieve ?
If the latter I'd suggest the main filter as FR says, this can cause low fuel pressure causing your symptoms.
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I always put a few cap fill's of "Profi Fuel Max" in the tank when I over winter the bike, it is a complete system cleaner I have used it for years on various bikes with carburettors and fuel injection seems to do the trick. Good Luck
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Could it be the TPS? I had similar symptoms on a Wee. Bike would start and idle fine until it got to operating temp then it would bog down and stall, riding on the roads was a nightmare. it would seem that the hotter it got the worse it was.
So maybe by leaving it to cool down slightly before riding would "cure" the problem until it got back upto temp.
I changed the TPS and, once calibrated, all fine again.
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I'm grateful to FR and kwackboy for the suggestion that it might be the HP filer integral to the pump. This was not replaced when the pump motor and strainer were replaced. If the tank was dirty its likely to have taken in some of the rubbish which may be clogging the HP filter..
I assume the HP filter is the metal cylincer about an inch long sitting on top of the pump and retained there when the top cover is replaced. I saw this but was unsure of what it was.
Thanks to Pug 27 for suggesting it might be the TPS, I'll explore this possibility after I exclude the HP filter. I'd never heard of a TPS before.
Meanwhile the tank is laid back on top of the bike and it starts instantly and idles nicely making me suspect the HP filter is not entirely blocked. If so would it be OK to put some engine cleaner in approx 5 Litres of petrol through the tank? I'm veryt tempted to try this.
Does anyone have an idea where I might find a high pressure filter replacment? Our local dealership here in rural Ireland is into ATV's, chainsaws, lawnmowers and bicycles only. IMHO They are shockingly expensive so I'm afraid to approach them.
Today the weather is bad with wind and rain and its forecast to continue for another week. So no riding (outdoors) anytime soon.
Best, GF
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I sourced one through a main dealer, I can't remember which one. Make sure you are sitting down when you get the price :shock:
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Full maeks and many thanks to FR and kwackboy for correctly diagnosing the cause of my troubles and saving me a load of grief in embarking on a wild goose chase.
I sourced a fuelpump and sender on fleabay and finally got around fiting it today. I'm delighted to say the bike is now running like new again (as it might with 970 miles up). Starts in half a crank, accelerates smoothly, idles evenly and generally is a pleasure to ride and listen to.
Its the most usable of my three bikes (GSX1400 and SV-650) and after an oil change I plan to use it regularly.
It was a lucky day when I doscovered this forum.
Thanks again FR and KB.
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Great news , glad it's all fixed .. :thumb: