Suzuki V-Strom (VStrom) Owners Club DL250, DL650, DL1000 & DL1050
V-Strom specific discussion => V-Strom specific discussion => Topic started by: higgers1 on January 30, 2015, 17:54:29
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Hi everybody. Unfortunately, my first post doesn't make very good reading!
I have a problem with my new DL1000 (New Dec 2014) whenever I go out on the bike in the rain, or wash it the turn indicators start to malfunction then give up completely. Also when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd the engine sometimes cuts and won't restart again till I whip the clutch in and use the starter. Both of these problems are absent when in dry conditions. When I took the bike in for its first service I told the dealer about the issues when wet and I was told that another one of their customers was having the same problem with his DL1000 but they had fitted a new indicator relay and that had seemed to work, so they put a new relay on during the service.
it was raining when I rode home from the service and sure enough the indicators stopped working! I booked the bike in for them to strip it down and investigate further but because of commitments I had, I couldn't get it back to the dealer for a week. When I rang the dealer to confirm the booking he told me that the other bloke had rung to say that his relay 'fix' hadn't worked and that there was another 2014 DL1000 that had shown similar symptons when wet and that when they had stripped it they found that two of the electrical connector blocks at the front of the bike (just above/behind the radiator) had water in them and that the worst of the three bikes was so bad that the terminals inside the blocks had corroded & broken and all the wires going into those blocks had welded together!
the bikes need a new wiring harness and because two of us have keyed alike luggage we will need new locks!
The dealer has been told by Suzuki to fill the new blocks with grease and spray with water repellent as a work-around. I'm obviously not very happy because I ride all year round and it can only be a matter of time before it happens again. Given that I am aware of three bikes at my local dealer, I was wondering if there are any other DL1000's out there with the same issues so that Suzuki might find a proper solution
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Suzuki need to wake up to using waterproof connectors everywhere instead in a few select places. It's not rocket surgery...
Hi, by the way! :)
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Hi Higgers.
I read something similar recently, so have a search around.
Also, I moved your post from Introductions to the DL1000 section. So please go back to INTRODUCTIONS (http://www.v-strom.co.uk/phpBB3/viewforum.php?f=57) to say hello properly and then we can leave the technical stuff in the appropriate sections.
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I had the same problem, Frasers spotted the corrosion when they did some work on my bike a couple of weeks ago. All the connecters collected there under the tank were affected. That bikes can be sold with this dreadful lack of corrosion protection is scandelous in my view!
ACF50 EVERYWHERE the moment you collect the bike wouldn't do any harm.....
Tim
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...I was wondering if there are any other DL1000's out there with the same issues so that Suzuki might find a proper solution
Not had that problem, but I know exactly the connector you mean. On my bike it sits just poking out over the top of the radiator on the near side, cables facing the direction of travel (so all the road and weather crap will spray up into, effectively, the back of the connector. Stupid design. An extra couple of minutes on the drawing board and 6" more cable and the problem wouldn't exist.
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Sorry about this, but....
take it back, hand over the keys and tell them, sort it once and for all or money back please.
That sort of schoolboy error should not affect a multi£££k new motorbike.
How dealers can expect customers to traipse to and from their dealerships with faulty bikes is beyond me.
I'd personally reject the bike as not fit for purpose - you can't trust it to work properly - and unless they sort it pdq send me a cheque.
Probably not the 'correct' answer but shoddy manufacture pis**s me off.
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The Wee has the same problem, here's a pic of mine when it had 7000 miles on the clock.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/64012197/Wee%20L0/20130228_143306.jpg)
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The Wee has the same problem, here's a pic of mine when it had 7000 miles on the clock.
Nice to know the Veek has the same great build quality as the old bikes :thumb:
Did you take your bike back and tell the dealer to sort it out?
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No my bike was used, I checked the connectors a few days after I got it and sorted it out myself. It was less than 2 years old though.
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Maybe I'll check my Glee's when I'm off next week?
That just shows poor build quality all round.
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Gave mine a wash the other day, then checked these connectors. Yep, they were soaking wet so got them all dried out and sprayed liberally with Acf50, will repeat every few weeks or so. :thumb:
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Shouldn't have to do it every few weeks if you put electrical silicone spray liberally on the contacts
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From ACF50 website :-
Exposed engine and gearbox cases, swinging arms, forks and other exposed parts will benefit from
ACF-50’s thin film technology by not corroding, will stay looking good and will clean up easily
after a salt laden ride. It is also excellent on black plastic trim without leaving the residue of silicon.
It will protect electrical joints, plugs and components and prevent corrosion causing high resistance
joints. This goes for PCB’s and electronics as well, such as computerised ignition and fuel control
units and their multi pin plugs, while switches, controls and levers will all be lubricated as well as
protected from corrosion. Multi pin plugs and connectors benefit from having ACF-50 applied directly to the contacts.
Under the tank and hidden areas it will last up to a year.
So maybe not every few weeks then. I'll just keep an eye on things.
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I have the very 1st version of the DL1000 and,,,, at appx 60,000miles I experienced `flasher' problems. The M/C is so reliable, it was annoying to find it was just corrosion at the points (connectors) behind the radiator ( as in your `headline'). Having fixed everything from the 1st mile in 2002, this was a matter of fitting a new block. Pain in the arse, but the bike now has 103K on it and is my wet weather hack. Still the most reliable bike in my 350K experience...BUT, to hear it happening from such an early stage is concerning (2014 models).
Having tried and tested the new strom last week, it is better in all areas, but, not more than 10% from my 2002 model. Would I buy one now, Yes I would, but not after already owning one and testing a KTM 1190 in comparison. No contest, the grin factor was immediate when leaving the throttle open in sports mode above 6k rpm. Braking, suspension and HP power differences made the decision easier to put the deposit down on a `Kost To Much' KTM 1190R.
The new strom will be a better bike than the original 2002 launched version, but, knowing this position behind the radiator was a `water' collection point.....WHY HAVE THEY NOT DEALT WITH IT?
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I've also had issues with these connectors. I was having problems switching off the bike, turned key off and removed it but ignition was still live and bike running. Even when it looked like it was off the battery was getting drained. Took it back to my dealer who bypassed the faulty connector to keep me on the road. They then took it up with Suzuki and I'm now waiting to get a new wiring loom and lock set fitted. Dealer has promised me that the new connectors will be properly waterproofed.
I've a pal that's just picked up the desert model and he's put a rubber seal above the radiator to keep the water out of this area.
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If you have a chance to take a photo of your pal's solution, or if he had some photos that you can post here, it'd help many members of this forum.
I personally don't have an issue with this connector, as I live in the area without real winter, snow and salt, and almost without rain. We have 300 sunny days a year, so 99,9% of my riding is in nice dry weather. My bike has been ridden only twice in rain, for not more the 15 minutes. It's parked in my garage and I have 6.000 km's on the clock.
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If you have a chance to take a photo of your pal's solution, or if he had some photos that you can post here, it'd help many members of this forum.
+1 on that please.
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Take the connectors apart, get some ACF-50 on the contacts and put them back together. Then install headlight relays to drop the current the connectors are carrying.
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If you have a chance to take a photo of your pal's solution, or if he had some photos that you can post here, it'd help many members of this forum.
+1 on that please.
The solution my pal has is an off cut from a rubber pipe seal. It's red rubber and all he could find at the time. :-x I think we can do better though. I'm planning a mk2 version cut out of some black roofing EPDM. I'll get some photos taken and post them up. :)
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Had a bit go at making my own "flap" to keep crud / water out of the area above the radiator.
Cardboard template made.
(http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii537/stuart_johnston1/photo%202_zpsqsyy9b0a.jpg)
(http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii537/stuart_johnston1/photo%201_zpscsopzl67.jpg)
Transferred across into EPDM.
(http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii537/stuart_johnston1/photo%203_zps0ziakg83.jpg)
Test fitting, looking OK.
(http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii537/stuart_johnston1/photo%204_zpstzgkomol.jpg)
(http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii537/stuart_johnston1/photo%205_zps0x1syfar.jpg)
Still some holes to make so I can cable tie it to the upper radiator supports. Think I'll make another as I've not cut this particularly straight. Should do the job though.
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Todays project bought to you by the letter "E"
Great work fella BTW! :clap:
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I'm wondering if pipe insulation would make an easy rain block. Something like:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/22mm-Pipe-Lag ... 3f2ff00957 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/22mm-Pipe-Lagging-Armaflex-selfseal-9mm-Wall-x-2m-Pre-Slit-Class-O-Black-Foam-/271387199831?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f2ff00957)
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Not a lot of space under there but should do the trick with a bit of cutting down. Seems crazy to me why Suzuki didn't waterproof the connectors or have them somewhere else or seal off this area.
I'll add some dimensions to the photos later.
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Great work there Stu. I'm going to have a go at mine now. Thanks for that. :) :)
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How do you get to the plug to check it out and spray it up ?
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Having read about this problem and being an electrician I had to investigate. Any connector exposed to the elements will fail . What's bad here is the connectors on the right are not waterproof and are directly in front of the air intake. The large white connector on the left is the ignition loom and this one is not waterproof. So I got an old bike innertube and sleeved the ones that are not sealed.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/21/3ac9e886da961a04dbe7f3d70c9efba3.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/21/5e9abf4bda75b843bacd53ecb8bf252d.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/21/e3115752f6e45ea8d094058d4f129eb2.jpg)
Tie wrapped only the front side in view of the elements, also rubber sleeve will stop chaffing!
Finally the fuel tank sits on a loom and is wearing insulation on the loom. This will fail before long so..
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/21/a84ed96cfe4abd2dfebec743d6a8cf72.jpg)
You can see white paint flakes from the tank on the rubber!
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/21/ddbb7970ee09b2ee4513d1d88c6b95d7.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/21/ad285e123d58a0f6fc889c2080740bc6.jpg)
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Had a look at a new DL1000 in the dealers today and the exposed connectors are nowhere to be seen. Had the service tech with me and he checked too. Suzuki have obviously moved them on newer models. Had the technician check for me and there aren't any recalls, so Suzuki seem to realise there is a problem, but not going to do anything about helping the rest of us who are going to potentially be breaking down as soon as it rains. :angry-cussing:
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I've just seen this thread and it's interesting to see the loom layout is very similar to the glee.
I noticed how exposed the connectors are to the elements and a potential recipe for future problems.
While my own bike is virtually brand new, prevention is much better than tracking down temperamental problems in years to come :)
Best shot I can get (on the glee)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/11/32e7a541a0fc013a6842e68aa510bc18.jpg)
It's odd how the bike has ample room away for the elements under the clocks but chose to put them there probably to save a couple of foot of wire.
Some foam rubber workshop mat cut to size & wedged in above the radiator after dowsing the connectors in wd40 then sprsy grease;
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/11/cb0e59826de3342be1a44cec26cfd65e.jpg)
Phil
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Thought about a new thread, but still very topical ?
Was this issue addressed at recall ? I understand the rubbing on the loom was from the tank , but not the connectors behind the rad.
I ask now as I am going on a long tour in September and just want to be sure ! I have tried to look up from behind the front wheel and I could not visually see the connectors behind the rad.
From my reading this was not one of the recall issues ? Am I correct. Might get tank off and have it looked at before I depart. Many thanks
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Get the tank off and sort the conectors out mate, it's peace of mind then. :thumb:
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Had mine done now before my trip to Spain and Portugal next month ! :lala: Peace of mind.
Used a local independent mechanic who I have dealt with for ages, especially moving tank and things like that. I sent him a link to this thread and the extremely informative images placed here.
My connections were 'bare' and 'open' as such but he has coated them inside and out with a waterproof vaseline, I am informed same stuff as Triumph use on their connectors. He states will never need touching again ! sadly I am a dry weather Biker (at my age !) but I still manage to do serious miles in season.
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After reading about all the horror stories on the forum regarding the electrical connectors, I decided to weatherproof the connectors on my Glee using, ACF50, bicycle inner tubes and cable ties. It was a big pain trying to remove the front air box clamp, I ended up buying a 3mm ball end Allen extension to undo and tighten the bolt. I also purchased a wiring harness and relays for the headlights from EasternBeaver, Bigpie on the forum also does them, he just didn't have one available at the time.
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I thought these connectors were included in the recall notice as outlined at http://www.morebikes.co.uk/Suzuki-recalling-v-stroms-for-three-separate-electrical-issues/
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After reading this thread this just confirms Suzuki need to do something with their looms. It's not just vstroms , Suzuki use these type of connectors in pretty much all of their range . I see this issue Lots in Suzuki’s and if one comes in the shop with electrical issues I head straight for the loom plugs that connect both switch gears.
With that and their stator issues Suzuki need to up their game with their electrics. It's all down to cost cutting ... shamefull.. !!